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Everything posted by Surfing4Dough

  1. Or under $4 http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10208
  2. I hook my mini-director to a digital timer power strip (7 day programmable -- I like a digital one so it is more accurate). I plug my director, FM transmitter, and radio frequency sign all into the timer, so they all come on at once, and leave my controllers plugged-in/powered 24/7. I prefer not to power over cat5 so I don't have to worry about the distance between the director and first controller (must be less than 50' if powered via cat5). Seems to provide more flexibility. The manual shows how to hook up the power cord on page 10 of the manual (pg 5 of the pdf): http://www.lightorama.com/Documents/mDM-MP3_Man_Web.pdf You may even have an old DC power supply laying around from an old phone or some small electrical device that meets the specs (50 milliamps, 9 volts DC). I prefer to build my shows in the Hardware Utility since it provides more options (such as a single play first sequence -- I do a countdown at the beginning of the show, that only plays once and doesn't replay as the show loops).
  3. I couldn't agree more. If their roughly 12,000 members each were allowed even 2MB (quadruple current limits), and every single member maxed out their use, it would use a whopping 23.5GB. Maybe somebody can donate a thumb drive to the cause. Old posts ("old" meaning a month or 2 old) would be much more useful to newbies if they continued to hold the previously posted photos, which would probably cut down on at least a few help desk inquiries, which is time saved for paid staff, and time is money. Plus a few more products might sell as a result too. Either one would more than pay for the added storage expense and bandwidth requirements.
  4. I am not sure I see the difference between this comment by Shubb (which apparently wasn't acceptable): And this one by Don (who is also LORAdmin, BTW) earlier in the thread (which apparently was acceptable). I guess sarcasm is only allowed from the "elite" or LOR Partners:
  5. Should probably clarify that. If you are planning to synch a show to music (as most do) then you will either need a PC or a Director of some sort. If only planning to run animation (non-musical), then a Showtime Pro controller can run in stand-alone mode.
  6. Very nice! Would love to see "daytime" photos of your construction (or link to other threads if you already discussed that elsewhere). Now I have to make the spots in my vision go away.
  7. I thought about a year (or 2) ago it was becoming a new regulation that the LEDs had to have copper leads (or maybe zinc coated). I remember the discussion came up around pre-sale time since they mentioned to "buy now since the prices are about to go up in 3 months to account for this new regulation" -- meaning that you were still able to order the older style at that point, and assuming that the price would rise in order to account for the added expense during manufacturing. Regardless, still likely a snubber issue and not a "wave" issue.
  8. We've been down this road before but will go there again. This is a snubber issue and nothing to do with half-wave vs. full-wave. And the probable difference between your strings has more to do with length of string and number of strings connected in series (though I am sure there may be some minor variance between brands).
  9. I suspect it will be remembered as the "Great Pixel Exodus of 2013."
  10. Never heard what was found as part of this investigation that Dan mentioned would be done. Seems that some still experienced such problems even with 3.9. http://forums.lightorama.com/index.php?/topic/25457-390-and-a-laptop-not-playing-nice/ I too have similar concerns as Gary.
  11. It still is on the forum, just had to search for it: http://forums.lightorama.com/uploads/imported/258676=14280-SilverdaleLightsSpiralMegaTreeConstructionGuide.pdf
  12. Want to clarify this statement? Not sure how you perceived anything above to be something other than that. I didn't realize that if somebody points out a legitimate issue that could be improved upon in the software that it would be viewed as possessing a "glass half empty" viewpoint by a LOR Partner and/or forum admin. Seems pretty negative to me. Surely LOR is wanting to continue to make improvements in their software and is open to such input. Guess I'm looking at it from a glass half full perspective.
  13. That is nice to know, but SparkDr specifically indicated he is looking for RGB floods. For that matter, if he wanted to use AC controllers, he could just buy a red, green, and blue incandescent flood bulbs and just mount them next to each other, with each bulb on a separate channel. But I don't think AC is the route he he desiring (nor that I would recommend).
  14. Seems to me if you are truly wanting plug & play, then why not these? http://store.lightorama.com/cocofl2flhe1.html They just plug right into your existing LOR network, with nothing new to learn. Next closest thing to plug & play would probably be something like these run off a LOR DC controller: http://seasonalentertainmentllc.com/rainbowfloodlight.htm You would have add a cheap power supply to the controller, and also figure out an enclosure to put both the lights and the controller.
  15. Assuming that you are talking about Seasonal Entertainment's products, I doubt you will find many with experience with the Rainbow Ribbon since I believe it is a pre-sale item and is new this year.
  16. Note here is a larger list of keyboard shortcuts specific to SE in the manual (beyond the universal Windows menu shortcuts mentioned above): http://www.lightorama.com/downloads/3.8.0/help/index.html?editing_sequences_using_the_ke.htm (click on "Modifying Cells") You can also adjust keyboard shortcuts or create new ones too: http://www.lightorama.com/downloads/3.8.0/help/index.html?keyboardpreferences.htm (Orville, please ignore the above links if you are somehow offended by them. )
  17. Not sure why there was the need for such an angry reply when a simple "Thank you for the links" would have sufficed, especially since the info you were looking for was basically provided easily, succinctly, and promptly for you (maybe an answer in less than 1.5 hrs wasn't quick enough). I guess I didn't specifically compare the 2 devices for you (since I don't own either) but I figured since you own the DC-MP3 that you would easily be able to determine what features the G3-MP3 has that you presently don't have with your device. And I guess that you did specifically ask for the "LOR folks" to reply so I should have stayed out of it and let you have the answer that Don initially provided (use a help desk ticket) since he is much closer to a "LOR folk" than I and I am sure the help desk approach would have provided something to you within a few days. Sorry to inconvenience you Orville. (Oh, and you're welcome.)
  18. Not sure what is hard about finding the link to the actual device: http://store.lightorama.com/g3mp3director.html Plus the data sheet is clearly labeled on the support Datasheet page: http://www.lightorama.com/Documents/G3-MP3.pdf Along with the manual: http://www.lightorama.com/Documents/G3-MP3_Man_Web.pdf
  19. Though if you use the "new" Visualizer, you get a pretty accurate representation of what the display will look like, if you set it up right. That is the only way to go, and well worth the time to learn using it, since it does make it easier to do sequence tweaking ahead of time.
  20. All specs for LOR devices are readily available in the datasheets on the support area of their website. Strongly suggest you do some reading there. http://www.lightorama.com/Documentation.html http://www.lightorama.com/Support.html
  21. Power requirements: Not an issue most likely if you plan to use all LED. The load of the controllers is basically just what the load of the lights are. Considering a 60ct string of LED lights only uses about 0.04 amps, I doubt you will have to branch out your main box. Most all LED displays could probably run off 1-2 circuits. Cheaper to buy the LEDs than pay to revamp all your house wiring (unless you are skilled to safely do it yourself). Lights: Not all LEDs fade well with LOR. Most do, but don't assume. Martha Stewart brand is notoriously bad for this, but there are others. The vendor I use and many here like is HLE. They have a pre-sale (order now at heavily discounted price and they are delivered in a couple months) that ends tomorrow. http://www.holiday-light-express.com/ LOR for Dummies: In my opinion, watch and read every single link on the following pages and you will be way ahead of most on this forum. Training Guides and FAQs http://www.lightoram...ral_Information Video Tutorials: http://www.lightoram...orialLinks.html http://www.lightorama.com/PDFs.html
  22. Then don't bother shopping at the sale. I don't think it matters to LOR one bit.
  23. I am curious what you think those may be? There is no UV protection in SPT1 or 2. Some places list SPT-3 which is SPT-1 with UV protection -- I think CDI offers this. Don't assume about SPT-3 though since rarely I have seen SPT-3 which has nothing to do with UV but is actually wire with insulation thicker than SPT-2. With regards to UV exposure in general. In the entire USA, during the winter there is very little UV exposure, due to the angle of the sun shining through our atmosphere. Therefore, unless using the cord year round, the amount of UV damage that could happen to any SPT cord would be negligible. The wire will fail due to other damage long before UV would be the culprit, so definitely not worth paying any extra for UV protection in the wire.
  24. Visualizer nearly looks like your display live, whereas animator looks like the graphics used in a 1970's Atari game.
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