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JoelSturman

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About JoelSturman

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  1. Thank you for that clarification. My thick skull has been penetrated! I can also deduce that no firmware updates for the newer boards have been needed for a while, as the 4.40 board I have is over 1 yr old. Correct me if that is wrong. Thanks again!
  2. I have seen this topic repeated several times in the forum. I still have questions. The device I have is a blue board CTB16D, and is over 1 year old. It shows ver 4.40. There is a question that begs to be answered is what do we do with it? Should we update the firmware? The firmware on the site says the latest is ver 4.32. When did 4.4 come out vs 4.32? I see that Dan state they are the same, but SHOULD you update an older box that shows 4.4 with 4.32? Is it newer? Thanks!
  3. Labels: I really did a lot of hard work the first year putting stickers and labeling cables by length. I covered the labels with clear tape and zip tied the ends to seal out moisture. Alas, this did not work. Moisture got in and the ink on the stickers smeared. Next I used a cheap labeler. They won't stay on the cables without the clear tape on the outside. Plus it takes time to type the number, etc into the labeler, and remove the backing. Then, this summer I was in the electrical section of Home Depot and saw a booklet with pages of pre-numbered labels. They are a little stretchy, and seem to stay on the cable. I think they are made for CAT5 cable. I cannot seem to find them around the house right now, or I would tell you who makes them. They repeat the number(so you can wrap/overlap the cable), and have 1 sticker that is separate from the strip. What I found most useful, was I could use these for the units themselves (I buy the DIY kits). So I use the single label on the smooth side of the clip, and the others for the ends coming out of the box. I will probably want to wrap these will clear wide tape, just to make sure they stay. Numbering schemes: My biggest pet peeve is not knowing how long a cable is. Now that I have a labeling scheme and have gone through all my cables, I can tell by just looking at them. Figures, doesn't it? However, every once in a while, one confuses me, so the length is somewhat handy. The most important aspect is to just have a unique ID at the end of both cables. Where this can bite you, is if you use more than one extension cord to make a run. Then you may want to consider a special set of labels. I am in the process of expanding and relabeling my cables. I may just use a number combination with the premade stickers (something like 1-1, 1-2...1-45...2-1). I would have to put on all stickers the same direction, or avoid reverse possibilities (create a 1-2, but not a 2-1). If I could find similar stickers with letters on them, I would be set. I would like to letter the controllers, and number the channel within each controller. Then label the same way with the extension cords. Assuming I do not change my display too much, that may work. Here is where I start to do too much thinking for my own good. I also do a display at Halloween, which means the cables move around. I seem to pop a GFCI every once in a while. I suspect one or more of my extension cords may be the cause. If I kept a spreadsheet of my cable connections by cable ID to the controller/channel, then maybe I could narrow down which cables cause the problem. But that is overkill, and just too complicated...Yep, I am probably going to do it :-) I would be curious to know how others have labeled too. Also, if others use standard extension cables, zipline, or something else.
  4. I have struggled with the new key mappings. I have noticed a few people drop hints about the ability to set your own keyboard commands. I found a utility that has helped do this wonderfully. It is designed as a keyboard macro utility, but I have tested in with LOR 2.8.12 under Windows 7, and it allows me to swap the keys however I want. When I want them back to normal, you just end the running script, or scripts. It is free at http://www.autohotkey.com. Hope that helps!
  5. I left a note on my order and they called yesterday. They will look into the shipping calculator. My estimated shipping was around $65 from the shipping calculator. It ended up being $51. I was impressed by their response, they seem good to work with. My problem really stemmed from needing to place an order at a time when they were closed. Then again, I come from a long line of professional procastinators!
  6. I used this problem as an exc... Ahem. I needed to save money by... I ended up ordering the 70 count lights. How can I go wrong with more lights? Oh yeah, less money! Oh, and also that look on my wife's face when she found out about it :shock:...:X' Thank you for the help!
  7. I hope you are implying it is off in the direction that is good for me financially . Thanks for that help. I wish i knew what the weight and box size was so i could calculate my own shipping. I tried going all the way through the checkout process and got the same price The other problem that may happen is i need to notify my cc company of the dollar amount or it gets denied - a nice feature that made me lose out on the spring LOR sale :?
  8. I am trying to prepare my first big order with them. Today is the last day of their sale, but I am afraid they are not in the office to answer my question. This is probably not the best place to ask, but I have no other resource. There is a big difference in the estimated shipping between the any 70 light set and the 50 or 100 light sets. The 70 light sets are around $12.00 for me, and the others around $24.00. Unless there is some big difference in wire gauge (hence weight), I cannot figure why this would be. I am hoping that it is an error in the shipping calculator. I cannot reach Paul for an answer. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks!
  9. If only it was the front yard! I live on a ridge. The nice part is that I have some height over the viewers. But it is the back yard that looks over a field (if only I could take the field over! >:-> The feild puts 300 ft between a street and my hill.
  10. Good feedback guys, thank you! (And yes I may be interested in buying some of your spares!) I knew I would leave some important detail, such as color. The Philips LEDs I have are Blue, both C6 and G20. You cannot distingish a difference at this distance. I cannot string as many lights as I want, and I need to manufacture 15 trees. I am using 2 peices of electrical conduit to form the frame (sitting on ground stakes). I have bolts going through the conduit to create pegs for the strings to rest on. I decided to run the lights in sort of a diagonal patterns back and forth down the tree. One pass works out to be 35.5'. Now imagine horizontal rows of trees with 5 in the back row, 4 in the next and so on, coming down the hill to form a triangle. 15 trees in all. There could be a slight amount of overlap between rows. I plan on putting Red, Blue, Green, and White on every tree. It is the blue that I hope to save money on. I currently have an estimated 21 sets of 60 lights (19.6' each set). I need 2 sets of these to fill 1 tree. So I would need another 10 sets of blue 50-70 light sets to finish off the color. However, as you can see, this is not like a megatree. It is not many strands going around a tree. If there are more than one, a set would make the top another the bottom. This is why I am so concerned. Since most of my sequencing involves patterns that go all over this triangle, I am not convinced I can get away with changing just a row or a column. The best I could do is put the older lights near the bottom of several of the trees.
  11. Thanks for that input. I would love to do a side by side comparison. Anyone close to Springville, Utah have some CDI lights? I have thought of mixing them, but I am already shorthanded. If I had enough to cover all 15 trees, I would probably do this anyway, to fill in the trees. My dilema is that I need to cover 15 trees and they come in cases of 12!
  12. I am debating what to order from CDI. I currently have about 20 sets of Philips 60 ct C6 LED lights (Target). I am already planning to purchase more than I can afford. I am trying to save some money and not replace all of these lights. However, my new display will require 30 sets. I know the Philips are half wave rectified and the CDI are full wave. The trees (simple flat triangle) are all right next to each other. How much difference will there be in the lights if I mix them? I am not a *complete* perfectionist, but do not want the display to look stupid either. I guess what I am really asking is an artistic question. My display will be on a hill about 300 ft from the viewers. At this distance will there be a noticeable difference in brightness? What about color? Anyone tried this or have pictures? Thanks!
  13. 1) $100ish 2) Ramsey 25B 3) 1500 Ft 4) Telescopic 5) Good to Excellent 6) Stereo 7) Comments: Have loved this transmitter with no problems. Probably do not know what I am Missing 1) Someone else paid WAY too much 2) WHT Gold 3) Completely Useless 4) Propped up wire 5) Sound Quality is poor 6) Stereo 7) Comments: Don't like the company much either.
  14. Avoid the WHT. Almost anything would be better than that. The EDM or MBB are highly praised on forum. Most love it above the Ramsey FM25. I have a Ramsey and it is awesome in comparison to the WHT, which I have also used. There are plenty of threads in the forums about the transmitters, and occasionally a group buy.
  15. You will only need find the Springville High School and go East and you should see it. I would like to do a field trip myself. There are so many I have not seen yet.
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