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Everything posted by medman2000

  1. I have an older EDM model and newer vehicles (last year, and now this year too) have complained that they do not get the audio. A regular radio right next to the vehicle receives it just fine - I remember someone last year explaining this had something to do with the radios in the newer vehicles? Does the CZH-05B have this problem too? Or is there a go-to transmitter that resolves this radio/vehicle issue? Thanks for any thoughts!
  2. I have 30 or so DMX units in my yard (using iDMX), and each year I struggle to keep them functioning. Interference gets into the chain somewhere, and I have to go out in the cold and either unplug them for the night or start messing with the cables to see which one might or might not need to be replaced. It finally dawned on me that I went the "cheap" route getting microphone cable and thinking I should upgrade to true DMX cable. I live in Minnesota, and there is a direct correlation between the colder days and the DMX equipment malfunctioning. Some nights, all I have to do is unplug a cable, wait a few minutes, and plug it in again and then the equipment works ok for the rest of the night. Other times I have to unplug/plug in numerous times during the evening's show. Not sure what else to try other than cable upgrade from the mic cables. I added a terminator but that didn't help. Can someone post a link to "good" DMX cables (will look for something similar online so I can make a bulk cable purchase)? Will either of these work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/XSPRO-XSPDMX3P15-3-Pin-DMX-Light-Cable-15-4PAK-/111020018702?pt=US_Stage_Lighting_Cables_Interconnects&hash=item19d94f0c0e or http://www.monoprice.com/Product/?pg_no2=3&c_id=115&cp_id=11509&cs_id=1150902&p_id=4751&sortby=&period=&rating=&seq=1&format=4#feedback Thanks!
  3. Your problem sounds very similar to what I have been through several times this year now. Here's how I problem solve. 1) check the last box in the chain of controllers (physically look at the box) and see if LED status light is solid - I have all Gen2 controllers so if it is solid I know my Cat5 and power are all structurally good. If blinking, I start working backwards looking at the controllers until I find the last in the chain that is solid red. That narrows down the location of a bad controller, or bad power, or bad Cat5. 2) Water/moisture. The randomness of your problem is exactly what I see when water has gotten into one of my controllers, or one of my connections. I have found the "problem spot" to be either at the controller with the most randomness of lights, or 1-3 controllers before, or 1-3 controllers after. Once it was a actually a cat5/connector that had become frozen in a puddle, but usually it is condensation that disrupts any number of my connections. I know that you tested the Cat5 and have reset the controllers, so perhaps the water/moisture thing is not your cause. However your description is exactly what happens to my display with even a drop of water or a nick in my Cat5 - so would suggest you double check. You might be able to isolate the bad box via hardware control panel too and then focus your problem solving there. It sucks because even though you are seeing the probs on your mega tree, the actual cause could be a box/cat5 before or after your tree too. Good luck!
  4. You do not have to move your controller to the end of the chain, though that is the easiest solution for some people. The way you outlined your plan (phone out of RJ45 of controller 7 into phone jack of controller 8) and then cat5 out of RJ45 of controller 8 into RJ45 of controller 9 will work. I have at least 10 boxes with one broken RJ45 mixed throughout my 80 controller display, works fine. Open up the hardware utility - the LED status light should be solid on the controller if you have a working cable/connector. Just look at the LED status light on all 9 controllers - if the last one is solid red all of your cables are fine and the computer sees all of the controllers. Good luck!
  5. I think the only way you would be able to reliably control them with LOR would be if they had DMX capability (a nickel-sized hole with three pins on your devices would likely mean they were DMX controlled.
  6. Oh that must be frustrating!! Anyway, thanks for the cool program (app?) - works like a charm, had fun playing with it tonight.
  7. Edit- thought it had a virus in it, but it was just a "reputation" threat identified by Norton (meaning it hasn't been recognized blah blah). Whew!
  8. Not that this will be any major help to you, but if I were faced with this problem I would test the background animation sequence with just a regular string of lights (see if this is a problem with the sign or the sequence). If regular lights stay on the whole time, something might be up with the sign. If the regular string also pauses or fades or something else, it sounds like the sequence. I might also just make a new sequence just to be sure (new animation for your sign). If you haven't already, I would delete all channels from your background animation sequence except for the sign, just to make sure you do not have any channel/config conflicts - but at the same time, running the LOR verifier will tell you that too. In my home display, I keep my nativity on through all the sequences and I have a flood light taped to street light so when my show starts, flood light goes on and street light turns off (and street light turns back on when my show ends). I have both the nativity and street light programmed as "always on" inside of each of my musical sequences, skipping the background option in the show. If you can't figure out the background option, you might consider just adding your sign channel to each sequence and leaving it on that way. It might blink for a split second between sequences, but that is better than 15-30 seconds at least. Good luck!
  9. I had this problem last year and the troubleshooting forum led me to the answer: http://forums.lightorama.com/index.php?/topic/7728-installer-problem-the-feature-you-are-trying-to-use-is-on-a-network-resource-that-is-unavailable/ Hopefully you'll find the solution there, I remember struggling with everything I tried until finding that thread.
  10. If you haven't tried it yet, it might be worth it to uninstall and re-install the software. Otherwise no idea
  11. Maybe run the verifier to confirm no channel conflicts, use hardware utility to manually check the functioning of the lights, and in cases like this I like to make a quick new sequence that turns everything on for a minute without any special effects just to test all the connections a different way. With the randomness of your current issues it kind of sounds like a combination of problems (maybe cat5 crack, water somewhere) but also the software itself. I did have my sequence editor crash on me earlier in my testing when I had the timings too close together (zooming to make them further apart stopped that crashing). Good luck!!
  12. LOL!!! That just HAS to be the one who keeps chewing through my DMX cable - always know it happened as the "downline" devices all start blinking/flashing/strobing in the middle of the night once the signal is broken. Too bad I cant make that trigger a big net or something to come down and trap him on the spot.
  13. Just a few thoughts: 1) have you run the verifier just to make sure you have no channel conflicts? 2) create a new sequence with "all on" as the only command for all of your channels? If #2 still leads to dim lights, assuming you have no conflicts (#1), I would start looking at your cables. One small break in a cat5 cable can disrupt an entire display it seems. Do they work with the hardware utility? If yes, then it is almost certainly a sequence issue, and if no, then it is a controller/cord issue (at least that's how I would interpret it). Good luck!
  14. Ok problem solved, reset the individual controllers following instructions in a different post and seems to be working now.
  15. Hoping I am missing something easy here. I have 80 controllers, all checked and all have solid red LED (controllers are all at least 3 years old, mix of PC and commercial boxes). Hardware utility can find the last box on the end of the chain, however 3 boxes in the middle of the chain are not located. They are not next to each other. They have power (red LED on) and at least as I understand it have functioning Cat5 since the red LED is solid, and they pass the signal through to the boxes "downstream" (and those downstream boxes function and control lights normally). The "missing" boxes cannot be controlled through hardware console. I am running LOR software v3.1.2 if that matters. I got myself into a jam here, having used all of my boxes in the display without saving any for urgent replacement like I have in past years . Any thoughts? Thanks!
  16. The phone line LEAVES from a functioning cat5 connection, and ENTERS the phone connection. Essentially any controller that has a broken/dislodged cat5 connection has to receive a phone line in. It can send out either phone or cat5 from the one working cat5 connection on the broken controller. The one case where this does not hold true is the last controller in the line. It can receive IN a cat5 cable even if it has a broken connection, because you do not have to send anything outgoing (that's what you already knew, since you put your first broken controller on the end already). I have 10 of my 80 controllers with broken connections, and have phone/cat5 throughout the yard this way. To fix them, you have to send them in to LOR for repair, or for those skilled in soldering/replacing pieces like this I believe LOR has sent out replacement parts in the past. Good luck!
  17. If it helps any, your keyboard is upside down. That could at least make your sequencing easier if you fix that. (heart goes out to ya with the rain - in Minnesota it is the snow then melting snow with more snow later than is my show's demise each year)
  18. I leave all of mine plugged in too - secretly hoping when the dang neighbor cat starts chewing on my Cat5 or extension cords she'll get shocked. Hasn't worked yet. But leave them plugged in anyway.
  19. no, you should be good. The controller has RJ11 (phone) on the left, and two RJ45 (cat 5) on the right (correct?). So between the two, you just go OUT of the RJ45 on controller one with phone cable, IN to the RJ11 on the second controller.
  20. Each controller needs two of the three available ports. So.... if both of the RJ45 (cat 5) jacks are broken on a controller you're stuck. If only one is broken, you can use the RJ11 jack as an "in" (that's the phone jack on the left) and one of the working RJ45 jacks as an out. You can go "out" from RJ45 with phone cable, in to the RJ11. Does that make sense? In my display, I have RJ45 cat5 running, then I get to the broken controllers - I use phone OUT from RJ45, IN to the next controller RJ11. I use phone OUT from that RJ45, IN to the next controller RJ11. When I get to my working controllers, I use OUT from RJ45 with cat5, IN to the next RJ45 with cat 5. Good luck!!
  21. And a reminder, you can use the RJ11 ports (phone line) to bypass the RJ45 ports that aren't connecting right. I ended up with 9 controllers with loose RJ45, using the RJ11 allowed me to get them back into the show - working fine. At least as it was described to me, and deployed in my yard, you need to go FROM the working RJ45 port with phone line, TO the RJ11 port on the next controller. RJ45 with phone line FROM that one (using the one working port) and TO RJ11 on the next controller. After that, when you hit the controllers with 2 working RJ45, you can go FROM RJ45 TO RJ45 with cat5 cable again if you want. good luck!
  22. Assuming you've checked the channel on the LOR controller with another string of lights that does work? Double check the intensity on the channel is at 100% via hardware utility. Only other thought I have is to try a "snubber" - in the same channel, plug in a regular string of lights plus your LED lights. If that works, at least you'll understand the problem (which I think someone described as a resistor or capacitance issue?).
  23. I so appreciate you pointing that out to me! And I'm so wishing I would remember to search before posting (blush). Thanks man!
  24. Finally starting my sequencing, dual monitor display - I'd like to open old sequences in left monitor and copy/paste stuff into new sequence in right monitor. The tabs for open sequences are ok, but would much rather have old and new side-by-side. Is there a way to get my computer to allow two sessions of LOR to run? Everytime I try to start sequence editor again, nothing happens. Thanks for any thoughts! bob
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