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About medman2000

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  1. I have an older EDM model and newer vehicles (last year, and now this year too) have complained that they do not get the audio. A regular radio right next to the vehicle receives it just fine - I remember someone last year explaining this had something to do with the radios in the newer vehicles? Does the CZH-05B have this problem too? Or is there a go-to transmitter that resolves this radio/vehicle issue? Thanks for any thoughts!
  2. I have 30 or so DMX units in my yard (using iDMX), and each year I struggle to keep them functioning. Interference gets into the chain somewhere, and I have to go out in the cold and either unplug them for the night or start messing with the cables to see which one might or might not need to be replaced. It finally dawned on me that I went the "cheap" route getting microphone cable and thinking I should upgrade to true DMX cable. I live in Minnesota, and there is a direct correlation between the colder days and the DMX equipment malfunctioning. Some nights, all I have to do is unplug a cable, wait a few minutes, and plug it in again and then the equipment works ok for the rest of the night. Other times I have to unplug/plug in numerous times during the evening's show. Not sure what else to try other than cable upgrade from the mic cables. I added a terminator but that didn't help. Can someone post a link to "good" DMX cables (will look for something similar online so I can make a bulk cable purchase)? Will either of these work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/XSPRO-XSPDMX3P15-3-Pin-DMX-Light-Cable-15-4PAK-/111020018702?pt=US_Stage_Lighting_Cables_Interconnects&hash=item19d94f0c0e or http://www.monoprice.com/Product/?pg_no2=3&c_id=115&cp_id=11509&cs_id=1150902&p_id=4751&sortby=&period=&rating=&seq=1&format=4#feedback Thanks!
  3. Your problem sounds very similar to what I have been through several times this year now. Here's how I problem solve. 1) check the last box in the chain of controllers (physically look at the box) and see if LED status light is solid - I have all Gen2 controllers so if it is solid I know my Cat5 and power are all structurally good. If blinking, I start working backwards looking at the controllers until I find the last in the chain that is solid red. That narrows down the location of a bad controller, or bad power, or bad Cat5. 2) Water/moisture. The randomness of your problem is exactly what I see when water has gotten into one of my controllers, or one of my connections. I have found the "problem spot" to be either at the controller with the most randomness of lights, or 1-3 controllers before, or 1-3 controllers after. Once it was a actually a cat5/connector that had become frozen in a puddle, but usually it is condensation that disrupts any number of my connections. I know that you tested the Cat5 and have reset the controllers, so perhaps the water/moisture thing is not your cause. However your description is exactly what happens to my display with even a drop of water or a nick in my Cat5 - so would suggest you double check. You might be able to isolate the bad box via hardware control panel too and then focus your problem solving there. It sucks because even though you are seeing the probs on your mega tree, the actual cause could be a box/cat5 before or after your tree too. Good luck!
  4. You do not have to move your controller to the end of the chain, though that is the easiest solution for some people. The way you outlined your plan (phone out of RJ45 of controller 7 into phone jack of controller 8) and then cat5 out of RJ45 of controller 8 into RJ45 of controller 9 will work. I have at least 10 boxes with one broken RJ45 mixed throughout my 80 controller display, works fine. Open up the hardware utility - the LED status light should be solid on the controller if you have a working cable/connector. Just look at the LED status light on all 9 controllers - if the last one is solid red all of your cables are fine and the computer sees all of the controllers. Good luck!
  5. I think the only way you would be able to reliably control them with LOR would be if they had DMX capability (a nickel-sized hole with three pins on your devices would likely mean they were DMX controlled.
  6. Oh that must be frustrating!! Anyway, thanks for the cool program (app?) - works like a charm, had fun playing with it tonight.
  7. Edit- thought it had a virus in it, but it was just a "reputation" threat identified by Norton (meaning it hasn't been recognized blah blah). Whew!
  8. Not that this will be any major help to you, but if I were faced with this problem I would test the background animation sequence with just a regular string of lights (see if this is a problem with the sign or the sequence). If regular lights stay on the whole time, something might be up with the sign. If the regular string also pauses or fades or something else, it sounds like the sequence. I might also just make a new sequence just to be sure (new animation for your sign). If you haven't already, I would delete all channels from your background animation sequence except for the sign, just to make sure you do not have any channel/config conflicts - but at the same time, running the LOR verifier will tell you that too. In my home display, I keep my nativity on through all the sequences and I have a flood light taped to street light so when my show starts, flood light goes on and street light turns off (and street light turns back on when my show ends). I have both the nativity and street light programmed as "always on" inside of each of my musical sequences, skipping the background option in the show. If you can't figure out the background option, you might consider just adding your sign channel to each sequence and leaving it on that way. It might blink for a split second between sequences, but that is better than 15-30 seconds at least. Good luck!
  9. I had this problem last year and the troubleshooting forum led me to the answer: http://forums.lightorama.com/index.php?/topic/7728-installer-problem-the-feature-you-are-trying-to-use-is-on-a-network-resource-that-is-unavailable/ Hopefully you'll find the solution there, I remember struggling with everything I tried until finding that thread.
  10. If you haven't tried it yet, it might be worth it to uninstall and re-install the software. Otherwise no idea
  11. Maybe run the verifier to confirm no channel conflicts, use hardware utility to manually check the functioning of the lights, and in cases like this I like to make a quick new sequence that turns everything on for a minute without any special effects just to test all the connections a different way. With the randomness of your current issues it kind of sounds like a combination of problems (maybe cat5 crack, water somewhere) but also the software itself. I did have my sequence editor crash on me earlier in my testing when I had the timings too close together (zooming to make them further apart stopped that crashing). Good luck!!
  12. LOL!!! That just HAS to be the one who keeps chewing through my DMX cable - always know it happened as the "downline" devices all start blinking/flashing/strobing in the middle of the night once the signal is broken. Too bad I cant make that trigger a big net or something to come down and trap him on the spot.
  13. Just a few thoughts: 1) have you run the verifier just to make sure you have no channel conflicts? 2) create a new sequence with "all on" as the only command for all of your channels? If #2 still leads to dim lights, assuming you have no conflicts (#1), I would start looking at your cables. One small break in a cat5 cable can disrupt an entire display it seems. Do they work with the hardware utility? If yes, then it is almost certainly a sequence issue, and if no, then it is a controller/cord issue (at least that's how I would interpret it). Good luck!
  14. Ok problem solved, reset the individual controllers following instructions in a different post and seems to be working now.
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