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About brianfox

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  1. If you mean you have a 5ft wreath and you want to embed 100 pixels in it (in a somewhat random-ish manner), that will look quite nice I think, as long as the wreath itself is visible. Otherwise, it's just a bunch of random pixels floating in the dark. With so few pixels for such a big object, I think the audience needs to know what they are looking at. For the prop in Pixel editor, you might consider creating a custom grid, placing each pixel in the grid corresponding to where it is in the wreath. Meaning that PE "knows" that the pixel on the far left is really on the far left, etc.
  2. So since you see the problem every time on C and D, it’s telling me you have two things trying to control C and D at the same time, or that they have overlapping IDs. I had nearly the same problem this year with my arches. They ran fine in Pixel Editor, but if I ran from SE, they flickered and had random white segments flash. turned out I had made two props for each arch in PE. One prop treated the arch like a 7 segment arch, grouping pixels into each segment. The other prop had the arch as a traditional PE arch. The reason I did that my display originally had incandescent arche
  3. Debug time... I see two arches there. I would first swap the connections from box to arches to see if the problem moves to the other arch. if it does, then it has to be something in the sequencing. Using Pixel editor effect generator, verify your effect works as expected. if it does, there must be something conflicting at the start of your sequence to cause the black. try changing the effect to a simple colorwash and see if the black spot goes away. Another thing you can do is Create a brand new, clean test sequence with just the one arch in it and see if the s
  4. Are you absolutely certain the four boxes have non overlapping Unit IDs? for example, Unit A=ID1,Unit B=ID3, etc. remember that each string of 50 will have its own unit ID, so it’s as if you really have eight boxes. The second ID for each box happens under the covers. my debug for a situation like this would be to remove Units A and B and see what happens.
  5. I already have a slew of LOR pixels in my display, but I am looking into adding cheaper pixels from the Ray Wu store into my display next year. Ahead of this, I purchased some test strings to check how well they work, and test longevity. I have a Pixie16 controller with a 500W 12V Mean Well power supply. The strings I purchased from Ray Wu store were three different samples: Sample1 Sample2 Sample3 Note that these are all 100 bulb strings - not 50 bulb The specs on Ray Wu are not clear, but were all the same: "Max Current" 50ma "Max Power" 0.6W
  6. Since WS2811 pixels have been around for a while now, I know people have purchased from various places (RayWu store, WOW, HC, other aliexpress stores, etc). Wondering how these have been holding up over the years. Rate of failure, etc. I've been using LOR original (5V) CC Bulbs and Pixels for about 3 years. 24 strings bulbs (50 pixels each) 42 strings of bullet pixels (50 pixels each) Every year, I have about 3 string failures per 66 strings. Most of the time it's just one pixel stuck on or off - easy to live with. I've had three strings with a section bad - had to
  7. I am not sure that is what OP was asking. If the end of your pixel string has a connector with 4 pins, it is 5V. If it has 3 pins, it is 12V. The original Cosmic Color Pixels were sold as either Bulbs (that are about the size of a C7 bulb) or Bullets (which LOR just referred to as "Pixels"). These were 5V, and used the SAME controller type (WS2801). You mentioned "Cosmic Color Pixies" which I think was a typo. I think you meant to say Pixels. I have both types in my display. I purchased from LOR the CCB sets and the CCP sets. When I would open the shipping box, the con
  8. RESOLVED! The original LOR pixels were WS2801, and the jumper is supposed to be removed.
  9. Custom shape is really the way to go. It takes a long time to set up but it has a HUGE advantage I will explain. Definitely DO NOT cut unused lights from a string. By custom shape I mean you use Pixel editor to tell it exactly what pixel is where - for every single pixel. As long as you don't have any duplicate numbers, it will work. And when your custom "grid" appears in visualizer, as long as the real life prop looks the same, the macros will work perfectly in real life. Now, the big advantage of a fully customized prop is that when bulbs malfunction - and they will - you
  10. Gonna make a suggestion you may not like at first. Pixels do not make great arches. They would - if LOR had decent macros for leaping arches. Unfortunately they do not. Adding the prop is incredibly simple. You can either use predefined shapes (they have an arch), or use a Firestick (what we might call a pole) and turn it on its side. It's easy to visualize an arch as a line rather than an arc. Now, the predefined macros you get in Pixel editor are not bad for arches - they just allow us to do things we don't typically associate with arches. Some of the things you can easil
  11. You really don't want to do that. CCB-II bulbs are sold as a string of 50 or a string of 100. The CCC controller will work with either. No power injection needed. You cannot daisy chain two 50's together. If you did, the 51st bulb would still have an address of Pixel 1. It just doesn't work. And voids the warranty. And will easily fail due to weather. I have had situations like you are encountering - where things would look better if... My solution was to design the prop around the limitations of the string, and not try to adapt the lights to the prop. Unfortunately
  12. The stuck pixel or pixel with a burned out color is awful. The worse solution is to break out the duct tape and climb a ladder. But there is a much simpler way to do it in Pixel editor. Let's say you have a Mega Tree, and one of the pixels at the 15-foot level doesn't do Green anymore. If you set up the prop in Pixel Editor as a Mega Tree, then you really can't remove the offending bulb from the display. But if you set up the entire tree as a custom shape, and assign each and every pixel one by one, then whenever a bulb dies, you can simply remove it from the prop. During
  13. That is exactly what I had to do years ago. My old 16 channel boxes simply could not live on the same network as Pixels. One thing to note: The USB-RS485B is certainly capable of 500K speeds. I have about 5 networks in my display - some enhanced (pixels) and some not (16 chan controllers) - and each uses the little black cube.
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