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bryan.hurley5

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Posts posted by bryan.hurley5


  1. Hey everyone,

    Does anyone have a adapter or adapter with booster available to sell to me? I moved to Italy due to being in the military and accidently left mine in storage. I have a military post box so shipping would be the same to any US address and I will pay the cost. Thanks very much! I need to show these Italians how we do it in America :)

    Bryan


  2. 6 hours ago, Oliver Blatt said:

    That video is great! I've wanted to add a trigger to start my show for a few years, but was intimidated by the set up and programming options. Now I just have to find a motion sensor to use!

    Just search PIR sensor on Amazon. They are very cheap. I believe LOR has a wiring diagram for them too on their website. I've only used them for my security lights in my yard. They are super easy.


  3. On 9/30/2018 at 5:20 PM, TheDucks said:

    Oh! Short term!   ~$100 to use what you have.

    If you are ALL LED, I would guess the AC load under 1-2KVA (not including the computer or Audio Amp). Go the transformer route.  Something like https://www.amazon.com/VCT-VOD-3000-Step-Voltage-Transformer/dp/B004FKE8RC/ref=sr_1_40?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1538320193&sr=1-40&keywords=step+down+transformer+220v+to+110v&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2888054011 Depending on the country, you may need to fit a new plug

    Be absolutely sure to bring all the US power cords (or the fixings ;) ) and outlet strips you need for your show.  Be sure to bring your show files and LOR key

    The other option is to store you stuff and buy 230V CTB16's and plan on pimping those to another addict  ? when you return . (and also sell them the LEDs you bought over there)

    Sadly I was unable to set up this year. I put up a few European lights but they are awful. I am going to go the transformer route next year like you suggested. I have a question though. In the states we run 60hz, here it's 50hz. It's my understanding that LEDs, since they are DC, don't really care about hz. Is this correct? The hz difference shouldn't damage my lights?


  4. On 11/16/2018 at 3:48 PM, Santas Helper said:

    Been using quality (not cheap) cat5 for my 30 floods since 2012 and haven't had any issues.

    Just ordered 200 feet of the cable. Since the cord has 8 wires, do you just use four and leave the other? Or do you double up and use to wires per terminal like the other user suggested?


  5. 8 minutes ago, Mr. P said:

    I make my own extensions out of 16 or 18 gauge 4-wire cable. This way I don't have a lot of excess laying around, for one it looks neater and two, with some of my longer 80' runs I don't need 10' of  excess cable which just aids in voltage drop.

    The cable you linked to will work well it is all copper and not CCA. I just prefer a black cable so it disappears in the dark as the white tends to stick out unless you can hide it.

    Do you buy a dongle adapter or just splice the wires directly to the flood wires?


  6. I want to wire up my house with my new eight 10w light o rama dumb rgb floods. However, they will not be able to reach my CMB24D board. I have seen pre built extension cables on various websites but they too are pretty short. What does everyone use? Do you just use 4 conductor wire and splice them together? Or do you use the pre built cables?

    Bryan


  7. Thanks for all the helpful information everyone! I have a very simple set up. Two CTB16 controllers with all LED lights. Nothing smart. All my lights just say 110v only and that's why I was nervous. I'm still debating just putti g my controllers into storage but I don't think I can last 4 years without running a show. I need my fix :)


  8. Hey everyone!

    I am moving to Italy soon and everything I own runs off of 110v. I have thought about all my options from running a DC to AC converter from my Car to power my show over there or just running it off of a transformer. For the people in Europe, where do you buy your lights and does your local community support your light show?

     


  9. The drone radio should be operating in the UHF range or even higher. FM radio is all VHF and will not interfere at all with the signals.

    edit: after doing a quick google search they operate even higher than UHF. 2.4 - 5.0 GHz range. 


  10. 2 hours ago, Jaynee said:

    Inspire me - tell me what new songs you are doing, what new equipment you are adding this year, or what you are building...

    Planning a Halloween show for the first year. It’s going to be completely interactive with buttons and switches for the little ones to enjoy. Hardware is all done but I still have to program still too :(


  11. So after looking at my own sensors and the wires going to them, I don’t think they are able to be used. They are not a switch but rather a “stopper” for the motor to run on the garage opener. Simply put, without he sensors, the garage door would not close. If there are any experts out there please let me know if I am wrong. 

     

    I think the PIR sensor is the way to go for your project. Or somehow make a pressure plate switch for the trucks when they leave. 

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