Jump to content
Light-O-Rama Forums

Obejohnknobe

Members
  • Content Count

    82
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by Obejohnknobe

  1. Hello "The Ducks", Great idea/suggestion and just ordered 5 packages of them! Important safety and interference issue you brought up about keeping the ac and the "information highway" separate. Unless you have the shielded Cat 5 cable it is wise to keep them separate. AC extension cords are noisy (from a 60 Hz perspective) and could induce a 60 cycle "hum" on your cat 5 cables. Nothing is worse than getting AC on DC lines and possibly back to your power supplies in a worse case scenario. Thanks for the idea!!! John
  2. Hey Orville, No worries as I have made MANY mistakes over my life and will admit it also. The bottom line is we try and either succeed or fail and learn from it. Thank you for your service and appreciate all that you do. Did my 20 and retired as it was getting too much wear and tear on my body. I always ask if I do not know what I am doing with this hobby and love everyone on this forum. The help I receive here is outstanding! I could not ask for a great bunch of people who love what they do and love to assist others in this hobby and that goes for you too! Again, Thanks!!! John
  3. Hello Mega Arch! I have about 200 rj45 connectors and about 50 Rj11 connectors (and XLR connectors) with the crimpers and tester unit from Amazon (500' for cat 5 cable too) ready to be used, thank you anyway for the thought. On my eves, all pixels are on pvc pipe with the corostrips from Boysco and have a wiring central point coming down to my card. 10 porch posts use the same central point to get the wires to the LOR cards. The comment about the tripping hazards is because I do not like cords in the way on the lawn (r. knee was replaced and difficult to lift at times when tired) but will have no option but to have more on the lawn. What was meant about the trip hazard was the extra cat 5 I have to make to get from my sign to the Candy Canes to the leaping arches to the LED Christmas trees and lastly to the snowflakes. Between each card is approximately 20 to 40 feet between each other and add in the extra power cords that go to each card (have 100 amp service temporarily put in the yard). I do zip tie cords to each other when it is practical. I was hoping someone could guide me to add another network to my G3MP3 director so I can separate half the lawn of props without the added cat5 cable. Seems Mr Orville has shown me the "light" about programming the network for it. I am thinking the RF linkers might do the trick but right now, just too much money and not enough time to accomplish it. What is the saying? Not enough months in the year to get the projects completed in time for Christmas? LOL I still have a 16 strip mega tree (half built) and 6 channel pixel star (completed) as well as adding 4 more snowflakes (need snowflakes and pixels) to my snowflake tree and 3 moving heads (purchased but need domes to protect it from elements) to add to the show. Those will not be in the show this year...rats!!! Not to mention trying to add another network (programming) to the MP3 director. Looks like more projects for next year! Thank you, John
  4. Hi Orville, I think I will run a longer cat 5 cable to the others and see if there is any lag. I have my director in the middle of the light show but it would seem I could use the other port as another way to get it to the other half of my lights. Seems complicated and time consuming to try this out so I think next year would be trial and error for this. Thanks a bunch! John
  5. Hi Oville, You must be EOD for the military at one time. Kudos for you as I never would want to be one! I served 20 years in the active duty AF as Ground Radio tech and worked with EOD in my later years. Never want to be around any devices like that!! I know we are probably on the same page but thinking out of sync do here goes, 1,000 = 1k 10,000 = 10k 100,000 = 100k 1,000,000 = 1000k 0.001m = 1k =1,000 0.01m = 10k =10,000 0.10m = 100k = 100,000 1m = 1,000k =1,000,000 Dealt with ohms, multiplexing speeds, bandwidth, frequency and list is long and distinguished when it comes to those numbers. Just wish I could get the computer software to be that easy when it come to the LOR software. You have been a great help on this software! Thanks! John
  6. Hi Orville, I just did this so if I get this understanding correct, I can put half of my lights on the regular network and the other on Aux A. I then can see in the HU where I can put half in port one and the other in port 2? Thanks again for quickly helping me out!!! John
  7. Hi Orville, I am trying to understand where you got that number but when it comes to numbers but 1000k is 1 meg or 1,000,000 is equal to 1000k or 1m. Now if we are talking bits or bytes, it would be another issue. If we are talking about 1000kbps or 122kBps (bits vs bytes) then yes, the speed is not quite 1mBps from my formal instruction. Or do I misunderstand what you are saying? Please correct me if I misunderstand! Thanks, John
  8. Hi Tom, I went to NP the Advanced LOR Network Configuration v4.3.26 and changed the Aux A to 500k to see if there were any changes to the channel configuration selection in SE sequences. All I see is the network selection is grayed out and cannot select it all. It appears this is for the computer when I do more research in the LOR forum and YouTube and not the director. Can you advise? Thanks, John
  9. Thanks Tom, When in HU, I normally select 500k on port 1 with 2 ports and can be run in enhanced mode (1 M or called 1000k), but it does not let me select anything for port 2. I run mostly pixels with 1- ctb16 that runs my led trees and Rudolph's nose. When you say channel config you are referring to SE and will the HU sense there is 2 networks? I will look and really appreciate the help. Will let you know how that turns out this afternoon. John
  10. Hello everyone! Hope everyone is preparing their light shows and is going well. I have one the newer G3 MP3 Directors with the latest firmware (5.16???) and have a network question on the Director as well as the software. I have a physical cat 5 port as well as a phone port (RJ11 and RJ45 ports) on network 1 and a network 2 with a cat 5 port. In the HU it asks if you have 1, 2, or 4 ports (I am guessing "network" ports) and I select 2 for 2 networks. The HU always ask for how many networks in the show. For now I select 1 network and use the cat 5 port on network 1 and have no issues. Can you have 2 networks with the same show? For instance, I would like to "parallel" off the #2 port to support the other side of my house instead of running a couple of long cat 5 cables for a possible "tangle foot" trap. Do you have to separate the show into 2 portions in order to make it happen or am I making this too complicated and just connect to the #2 port and tell the HU there is 2 networks? Thanks for taking your time out of your busy lighting schedules to help me out! John M.
  11. Both of my computers saves my work to the internal hard drive in where the LOR directory is loaded to. I had to delete one of my LOR directories copied from a downed hard drive. I loaded everything from an external hard drive info salvaged from the crashed hard drive to the laptop [new/old laptop (new to me, old due to my son's old laptop)] AND my desktop. Before the conflict was discovered, SE would save anything I did in LOR software to either directory where it wanted to. Unfortunately, the crashed HD info was saved to BOTH computers. I have since gleaned all work, saved it over to where it needed to be and deleted the old LOR software. You might have to look for more than one LOR directory if you have downloaded updates or have gone to a newer version. Use the windows search file for it. I use the G3-MP3 Director and have found it does not like anything else other than MP3s. As far as MP3s', had to set my windows media player to save all cds to MP3s and save to my music file. Usually I organized it from there, every now and then have to point SE to where I last put the file because of the reorganization. When using SE, I can direct it to look in the directory where I last put the MP3 (Shout Out to Phil M for showing me how!!). Also, Audacity has a free program that can convert MP3s to any audio waveform (WAV, WMP, ect) or anything to MP3s. You can tell it where to save also to augment SE. I use my thumb drive to save and transfer all work to BOTH computers. The bulk of my LOR work is completed on my laptop and save a copy to my thumb drive, which in turn, is saved on my desktop about every 2 to 3 weeks when I am working on sequencing. As long as you keep the "save as" function to the thumb drive after you have completed your work for that session, the thumb drive will not matter which slot it is in. If you do not and save to the thumb drive the next save (disk icon on upper left on SE) it will save to your thumb drive not on the HD (done it by accident). The "save as" function can be your best friend or your worse enemy depending where you were last sequencing. When you start with SE, make sure it is the latest sequence you worked on because if you do not, you could overwrite other work when saving. Now with that being said, it makes sense to me to back everything up at least twice, due to HD problems with past computers. Lost some sentimental photos due to HD problems in the past couple of years. Hope this helps, John
  12. Hello everyone! Giving an update on the G3-MP3 issues. Programming is a breeze on the HU MP3 Tab. You can even set the network multiplexing speed from there as you cannot from the Simple Showtime Builder. I do the same as dansamy when it comes to saving. Had 2 hard drives go down in 1 year so I now save to my hard drive and a thumb drive with the thumb drive as the primary. I also use the thumb drive to go between my laptop and desktop computers. All of my MP3's and sequences are on all 3 (thumb drive, laptop and desktop) to make sure SE can go to whichever it wants to go. All new work gets saved to all 3. Let's just say it is a preventive measure that I do to prevent loss of work. Now for the main update, the MP3 Director would save Simple Showtime Builder on a Kingston 16 Gig Class 4 SD card and play the sequences. However the card would save the show from the MP3 tab on the HU but when I plugged the sd card into the MP3 Director there was an "error, no SD card" on the display. Tried my sons 32 gig class 10 micro sd card as an experiment and everything works to include the sequencing. Please note there has been no updated firmware since I purchased it about 3-4 years ago. Next step is we purchased 2 Scan Disc 32 gig class 10 micro cards (1 for him and the other for the show), programmed it using the MP3 tab in HU and everything works to include sequences. Not sure if there is any other brand name card that will or will not work but it sure looks like the newer cards will work. I do run about 98% pixels for my show. Hope this helps, John
  13. Ok gentlemen, Found the show works and its now down to minor details. I did find out why the Simple Show Builder was not finding my files...I had two directories in where it was filing my sequences to. After I deleted the one I did not want, everything defaulted to where I wanted it to go. I normally save to 2 places after working on sequences as I do not know if I will be on the same computer which is where the thumb drive comes in. I do have to figure out why some of my Go To 89.9 pixels are not lighting in the show. I checked the lights on HU and a small sequencer (can't remember what it is called) and everything lights up. Now, I figure out if I programmed the card correctly. I do have the sequence with the correct number of Pixels, don't remember if it is programmed on the card as 100 pixels. Will check it out Thanks everyone! John
  14. JR, Just found a Scan Disk Micro SD card my son was not using and started an experiment. I used the sleeve to put the micro sd card in, not sure what class but it is definitely newer than my Kingston regular SD card, and is a 32 Gig memory. I did not delete his Nintendo Switch info and used the HU to program it. In the programming, loaded the Halloween Sequences, used the 500k and all the trimmings with it since the sequences used are 95% pixels. Programming came out well and plugged into the G3-MP3 Director........it did NOT get the SD card error. Just waiting till the sequences come on and will let ya'll know how it worked out. John
  15. JR I looked and it is a Kingston SC HD 8GB C4 SD card (it was provided when I purchased it). I used the Simple Show builder and it works with it. Just do not know why it will not work when I use the HU. It programs and can see the files but just does not want to see the card in the Director. I have never updated the firmware in the G3-MP3 Director could that be an issue? I will go ahead and look for PNY ones to see if there is a difference. John
  16. I have problems close to this while using the MP3 tab on HU. Everything is fine and LOVE how simple it is to load the files and select the accessories (i.e. 500k for Network speed). However, everything is not what it seems. I plug the sd card in my G3-MP3 Director and the director says error, no SD card. I can look at the files on the SD card and they come with Config, MP3 Format, ENH and EXH files. Why is the card not reading???? Firmware issue? I had somewhat success with the Showtime builder but the files I wanted to load are the problem. I can load everything from my thumb drive which has all music and sequences. I used the Simple Showtime Builder but have problems with the files not being where they are supposed to be, or the files are not updating. I checked where they are supposed to be but when I save my sequences (both hard drive in the LOR directory and the thumbdrive) they go to another place. I checked the root directory and they all are in the directory but when it comes to loading them, some are there and others are not. Since I am using the G3-MP3 Director, I was able to some sequences downloaded and played it but they are the old and not updated files. Using windows 7 on my laptop to do everything but save all work on my thumb drive as it is easiest to transfer to multiple computers for back ups. Thanks in advanced! John
  17. I would love to hear that one! All the dip switches fall into 2 categories, equipment and humans...LOL as in my mistakes at times! Will see if the Pixie 4s ID stuck tomorrow. John
  18. Thanks, Persistence was the game plan and was simply dumbfounded everything worked as it should. It was very frustrating after discovering the way LOR shipped the Pixie 8 cards with #8 dip switch in the on position but states you should be using the HU to program them. I am almost completed with a sequence to test the Pixie 4s to see if they kept the ID. We shall see probably tomorrow. Thanks! John
  19. Hi JR, After extensive programming and research here is the outcome from the ID settings in HU. I had no problems with the following Cards with ID retention: CTB16PC-G3 version 1.09 which is current, 2 - Pixie 16s Version 1.02 current, and 3 - Pixie8D-V4 Version 1.02 current...after I switched the dip switches all to off. All dip switches on the Pixie8s had position 8 in the ON position and it shows the same detail in the manual, why since the website also states the HU is the only way to program it...hhhmmm. Found in the back of the manual the ID settings for the dip switches. again, decided to switched them to off. All of these cards had NO problems with changing IDs, changing pixel count and setting the RGB sequence. Refreshed and check ID (good) and even turned it off and back on after a minute. All IDs were solid as well as tested lights from the HU and no issues. With the HU did really well to test the lights, I did not use a sequence. When it comes to the Pixie 4s (Pixie4D V3 version 1.02)...had problems keeping the IDs in the cards. 1 card would revert back to Hex 01 and the other would revert back to Hex 11. It took several times of changing it back and forth, turning it off and back on to keep the ID in the cards. Probably spent an hour per card doing this just so I had confidence the card kept the ID. There is no dip switches on the Pixie4s, it does have jumpers but nothing that would indicate keeping the ID (J2 accessory power, J3 triggers, J4 120 ohm resistor and J5 needs to be empty to program thru HU which it is) and it has the current firmware. I will be taking them out again tomorrow to see if they kept the IDs. Any idea why the Pixie4s are being a pain? P.S. thank you for the offer of calling but for now, it is a wait and see. John
  20. Hi JR, After further research I have 3 - Pixie 4s (Pixie4D V3) with no dip switches and it seems I have no problem with the id that I can remember. I will get back to you on this one as I forgot to set up how many Pixies on a string (i.e. 50, 51, 99 and 100 due to 51 on my leaping arches I was testing) and try it again. There are 3 - Pixie 8s (Pixie8D V4) in the setup and all have the dip switches, however, in the manual, it states if all dip switches are in the off position the Hardware Utility is needed to set the ID so I will look at them all to see if any were accidentally toggled on....or do I need to just set it up that way to be safer? Lastly, there are 2 - Pixie 16s (Pixie16D V2) with no dip switches to set the ID and not programmed to the new Hex ID. And the honorable mention is 1 - CTB16PCV3 light controller that also has no dip switches and I always have it set to 01 hex setting. Will update you in the afternoon to see what else I found. Thank you, John
  21. Thank you everyone for helping me out over the past year. I have learned a lot from you!!! The question I have is about the Hardware Utility program. Over the last couple of days I have been rewiring power, board wiring, labeling and setting up new Hex IDs for all of my Pixie controllers as well as my CTMB16. In HU, the setting of the new ID goes without hitch and use the refresh to initialize the testing as well as setting up the RGB sequence (RGB instead of GRB) and the testing of the lights will not work until I have refresh again. Most of the time the refresh will show the correct ID, however, there are a few cards that I have problems in having to go back and set the ID again. For example, I have a pixie 8 with an id hex setting of 21. It will confirm the new id setting and shows the new id when it refreshes. When I use the Config and then the Pixie config to change the light sequence to RGB, I refresh again as it will not test the lights until it refreshes. That is where the ID will switch to a different ID such as 1A. Then I have to change the id back to the original then refresh and before the lights can be tested. Is this due to an EPROM glitch issue or software glitch? Can anyone explain as my inquiring mind would like to know...please? Thank you!! John M.
  22. As far as it being the DMX, there is a definite difference between the Pixie4 and the Pixie4 DMX. It would have the XLR connectors and mine does not. Thanks for asking as I did go back into the booklet and found the DMX card.. John
  23. I did try both cat 5 connectors on the card and still nothing when I was testing so I will be getting online with LOR to see if there is a fix. Thank you for all of your help! I do not know what I would do if it was not for this forum and all of you helping! Thank you!! John
  24. Thank you! I did not know they would do repairs and have you had any experience on getting them repair through LOR? John
  25. LOR website under support and firmware says there is, but not available. If I cannot talk to the card, is it possible to download the update if there was one available? Thanks John Pixie2 smart controller (2 ports) Pixie2D 1.x firmware not available Pixie4 smart controller (4 ports) Pixie4D 1.x firmware not available Pixie8 smart controller (8 ports) Pixie8D 1.x firmware not available Pixie16 smart controller (16 ports) Pixie16D 1.x firmware not available
×
×
  • Create New...