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TheDucks

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Everything posted by TheDucks

  1. If it is not connected (ever) to the Internet. Unsupported is moot. You just need compatible drivers. Those packages can be imported from any PC via sneakernet (flash drive). It needs to WORK 😛 It needs USB2 ports It needs RAM (not the bare minimum) and disk space.
  2. TheDucks

    What's Next!

    I think this is one of the reasons LOR and HC sell RTG (ready to go) hardware packages. IMHO I still think the best way to learn, is to look at various folks builds and find one that FITS you conditions and skill. There are great assembly vids out there. Take time to do it RIGHT (unless you have money to burn when it smokes) The Rain belt folk need water resistance. The hot belt user need better cooling. Snow bound folk need Solid everything, because fixing on the fly is a 😮 There is no SINGLE best way (as long as the smoke stays in) HOMEWORK, then bounce your plans off other lighters. HU is how you configure the Pixies for 'chip type' being used. WS2811 is a common one (I think this is what HC sells as 12V). With Pixies there is only a Per/Board setting, so all connected to that board MUST be the same type.
  3. Absolutely. Just don't block any fans or vent holes (leave some space between if fanless) 1/2 - 1" minimum If you cant hold your hand on the case, it is too HOT for good life span Arcing is usually triggered by 'cat whiskers'. Tin wire ends or use ferrels on ALL leads and avoid expensive smoke.
  4. TheDucks

    What's Next!

    Pixies can control with or without the Clock line Dumb are only 4 wire and have neither data or clock.+V, Red, Green, Blue that connect or -V in the combination to make shades CMB24 (24 channels as 8 RGB ports) is the controller for DUMB
  5. TheDucks

    What's Next!

    12V for longer strings without power injection (P=I*E) since power is about the same. I goes down at 12V. I is what needs fatter wire because of our enemy R Main consideration for Smart Pixels: Pixies can only do ONE chip set (type). (advantage of smaller Pixies, you can optimize mode for your strings. IMHO Put the controller near the use. Less cables (Just the Network and AC for the power supply) length
  6. CORES do not really help for a show. (K6CCC was on a Pentium 2. 1 core) You want good I/O capacity (that SSD can help or it could hog (supply data so fast, that is all the IO can handle)
  7. BTW The need for Power injection has multiple reasons: Voltage drop (more critical at 5V),: wire size. string length Current: Node count, Port Amp capacity, Bus Capacity (you can't max out all ports in a bank), Wire size (again) I spent 40Y as a r&D (little R and a lot of D as my engineer would say 😛 ). I lean toward SOLID vs just get it working
  8. Both the LOR one and the HC ones are rain resistant when mounted per directions. You have options. other than the Pixie4, LOR controllers have BANKS. These need not even be powered from the same supply (and in some cases, voltage). I just use 2 rather than1 big one.YMMV And I have a SPARE 👍 (another reason for setting your personal equipment standards. I could probably swap a bad out in under 10 minutes and that includes grabbing the tool bag and spare on the way out the door. OK I did prep the spare with ferrels and my L bkt I use at the top mount)
  9. 8 ports times 4A = 32A (with a little headroom. IIRC the string takes 3+ Amps ) You have 2 banks you can split that EVENLY. You have not added next years extra length (the second 50 nodes per port) into your plans 😛
  10. The thing in your post that jumped out at me was PIGTAILS. IMHO they are good. BUT! !!(you knew that was coming 😜) There are no standards. PERIOD. LOR has theirs, HC has theirs. And others. (I am not just talking 3 vs 4 pin ). Size, Key style and orientation of pins with respect to key. I think I have even seen the Male pins vs Female housing thing. If you want to keep any hair you have, you will stick with your PIGTAIL vendor from now on (unless there is an obvious physical difference. like my LOR floods and the rest). I went with HC's system (before they started shipping strings WITH connectors), simply because they looked like they would be there next year with more when I needed them (and boy-o-boy have I kept adding stuff) and not some e-bay bloke who might be just clearance sales. I skipped Ray Wu only because I buy tiny quantities. The other thing I would emphasize: STRAIN RELIEF (See linked photo. Pixie 8 in a HC/CG1500 with pigtails) https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BjuuMb1R5x0u-NmzX4J3vtB6zNKjtqf5/view?usp=sharing Note I used 1" Romex connectors to secure the pigtails, a LOR CAT5 pigtail, and ferrets on the wire ends I mount my Power supplies external https://drive.google.com/file/d/1W8ZQqHTVUMmyhqXlQWICX9rUHAQdGiKx/view?usp=sharing , leaves more room inside (2 CMB, or a Pixie8 and a CMB in this case)
  11. When it fails, it was too much. There is no set 'how much' to break it. The point is: AVOID STRAINING IT
  12. ANY PCB mounted RJ type jack. the jack is not expecting strain (they are selected for cost and ease of mounting)LOR sells Pigtails that have A w/p mount and a flexible lead to connect to the PCB. 👍 $6, cheap insurance https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BjuuMb1R5x0u-NmzX4J3vtB6zNKjtqf5/view?usp=sharing
  13. What can we say? You had a flash-over/burnt trace to R39. A WAG is that R39 is simply the snubber resistor, not the cause fault. I suspect some large voltage (back EMF was applied to Port 12 . Back EMF is common with Motors, relays, solenoids. Anything with a COIL winding.
  14. The manual I looked in is V1.5 and the board shown is V1.1 ((layout). To be honest, .5 sounds a little thin for a fan (it would have to be a 2" or smaller) and the boards logic (which could also power for a ELL WHICH APPEARS ON THE RJ45💡 that had issues) Power is supplied by Bank 1 to the fuse (the one between Bank 1 power IN-Fan and bank 2 power in.
  15. I used the Manual also It is next to the Fan connector. If it is 3A, someone might have already over fused it (3A, being something your Car might use for a clock/alarm)
  16. 2 Advantages of Gen 3 AC: 1) Have snubbers that help keep LEDS off, when they should. 2) Dimming curve On/Off mode for stuff that will smoke if you try to dim it.
  17. What controllers? What chips in you Pixels? Did they ever work before you upgraded to 5.x?
  18. So did I 😛 Actually, they released Pdox DOS 4.5 in 95, but they also released Win 4.5 (the first release kept the compatible DB structure numbering to avoid confusion)
  19. also written as PSU Power Supply (Unit). sometimes referred to as :Power brick, Wall wort (lower power output)
  20. 👍 When Borlands Paradox switched to OOP, that was my downfall. The straight Procedural stuff of Pdox DOS, no sweat. I can read most code, but my brain-fingers just won't create it.
  21. There can only be ONE ---Highlander Think about it! SD card is just the show. Now look down at your LOR PC's tool tray. Red Lightbulb, even if you don't have a Edit session or show running. That is the communications layer talking (polling) to whatever is connected. Remember the should not be blinking light on each controller.. this is what makes it so. The Director without a SD card is more like that red lightbulb. It is still there
  22. Valid. Bulb life (burn out) has never been my problem. Brighter is a cr*p shoot by brand. And since the show is ON, I sure won't mess with what works at this time.
  23. Check the voltages AT the pixels start point (where the lead from the controller is connected to the PX)
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