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Everything posted by TheDucks

  1. TheDucks

    ooops moment - fried controller

    solder a piece of solid copper wire. 16-14 AWG (sorry I don't have the UK mm wire sizes in my head. must handle 15A). Just keep it tight to the board so not to interfere with the Faston or fuse seating
  2. TheDucks

    ooops moment - fried controller

    Hot JUMP - Hot jump is a jumper to power the second bank from a single Mains cord (and you need to install a Neutral Jump - Neutral Jump in the centre) The feed should be Hot (brown wire) and Neutral (Blue wire) You may have only fried the trace between the fuse and the Hot Jump terminal (which may include power to the rest of the board) Download the CTB16PCg3 Mechanical Assembly guide (see P9)
  3. TheDucks

    To ground or not to ground your mega tree

    We had a rare lightning storm back about 2000 in the SF bay area. I had 2 stores in the same city, lose their BiSync RS232 cards at both ends, just from the induced current in the under slab 300' run from the back office to the front end (registers). In one case, the strike was across the street. No one had a clue where the other happened. Only the equipment with the under floor cable was damaged, making us sure that it was NOT a powerline surge. Currents flowing in the earth can be HUGE from a strike. That can couple like a transformer to a single lead. What dibblejr explained, is what can happen, even when precautions were taken. I've visited a mountain top fire lookout. There are multiple rods on the roof, each has 4/0 copper direct to the ground rod below. The ranger has a step stool with big glass insulators that they stand on and their instructions are to keep their arms close to their sides. Even sticking a hand out can pick up a deadly charge from the air. Keep the lead to the ground rod as short as possible. GFCI's are NOT surge protectors. They only protect USERS against unbalance Line (Hot-Neutral) current
  4. TheDucks

    To ground or not to ground your mega tree

    Even if you don't get a 'strike', the air can get a serious charge. If you feel the hairs trying to stand up 😮 , you have a problem. The LAST thing you want is that charge following the wires back into your house via the power cord or the 'network, cable. Ground close to the display an item similar to this should be located (and closely grounded) JUST before the cable enters the structure https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Protector-Protect-Lightning-protectors/dp/B07DCP734L/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1533772776&sr=8-5&keywords=cat5+lightning+surge+protector This should be fine , even on the LOR network
  5. TheDucks

    Outdoor Speakers

    A.M. = Antiquated Modulation Right up there with Spark Gap Transmitters because there is no Consumer Level Stereo Transmitters
  6. TheDucks

    Cannot Set ID on new Pixie 4D 1st gen

    and remember, only the module being changed can be connected to the network.
  7. TheDucks

    Looking for Extension Cords...

    I shop Walmart. Know what lengths and GAUGEs you will need. Know current Prices for each gauge-length. Grab good deals. Avoid season starts (except for a Pre-season kick-off sale ), be ready at season close to grab bargains. IMHO be flexible on cord colors you will accept. (use colored Zip Ties at both ends to identify different cords of the same color) Be current and voltage drop aware in your layout and cord selection. I feed from the outlet with 12 or 14 (triple-tap end) , split off to other controllers with 16 at the first controller (None of my controllers draw more than 400W all on)
  8. TheDucks

    Inserting extension between CCB (12V) bulbs

    I was thinking the wires 'reactance' messing up the data waveform , since the same wire worked with better (data) drive
  9. TheDucks

    strobe light strings?

    Does someone have a fool proof to ensure ONLY On or OFF using LOR RS485 mode device? (Relay board? High current (>1A) not an issue) (Blew up a color changing string, by accidentally putting in in twinkle mode on the wrong channel. don't want to do this again )
  10. TheDucks

    Led chord into incandescent

    Ohmmeter. Diode check position preferred. Measure between pins: note value. Now reverse leads. Incan will be the same (and full wave, but you should be able to spot the rectifier bulge). LED will be lots different
  11. TheDucks

    Cable and enclosures

    Per foot is the pricey way to buy. Look at the ROLL prices
  12. TheDucks

    Cable and enclosures

    what gets me is most places charge more for bulk (full spool/box ) than you can get a couple of extension cord at walmart and cut the ends off I found this site: where you can pick number of conductors (eg 4 for dumb RGB) or gauge https://www.showmecables.com/by-category/bulk-wire-cable/portable-cord/soow Looks good
  13. TheDucks

    Cable and enclosures

    I took advantage of the spring sale at Holiday coro for enclosures (CG-1500). I also use their 3 and 4 core cables. FWIW Pick a brand for connectorized cables and plan on sticking with that. many are NOT interchangable
  14. TheDucks

    Independence day holiday projects

    Ya guilt tripping me (looks at my last HC box that I have done nothing with)?
  15. That says a CMB24 output would not even be strained . all you need to do is identify the polarity of the 2 wires, and you get full control, just like any other DC LED string. 1/4 A is nothing. Almost any 24VDC wall wort supply can feed a bank. https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Adapter-5-5x2-5mm-UL-Listed-3206-24V/dp/B002LMQ6G2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1530676159&sr=8-4&keywords=24vdc+power+supply this would power 8 of these flags on a CMB24 bank with ease Just remember, that module should NOT be used with dimming circuits (LOR)
  16. I noticed that it runs on 24V. Could someone that has one, post the nameplate data (volts, amps, polarity)? I was thinking a dedicated 24V bank on a CMB24D could control this with more effects. Is it possible to split the flags power feeds into sections (flag areas)? do you control from separate CMB24 channels, or double up with another flood?
  17. TheDucks

    Why not add this to our info to left of posts?

    Thanks for the reminder to update my version number 👍
  18. Lets back up. We may getting confused. STANDARD allows ID's 01 -08 for sequencing . The HU should not care.STANDARD allows ID's 01 -08 for sequencing . The HU should not care. You have older units? They work in HU when attached to the SAME RS485 adapter? IF Yes, that rules the cable and adapter good. Don't change anything else, just put one of the NEW controllers in place of the old. Now click REFRESH (in the top-middle of HU) BTW what is the Max unit ID set to? 0F (looks for the first 16 ID's) should be fine for controllers running on a STANDARD license
  19. That is correct. 5+6 was reset, so I was just checking Look in the RJ45 jack and make sure all the pins are at the same level and none are bent.
  20. You will not be able to update the firmware till you can communicate reliably. Also There should be only a single unit connected when updating FW Is the jumper on JP3 on pins 5 and 6?
  21. When you paid, you should have received shortly after with a new key to install (a user operation)
  22. Paid! But did you install the new key?
  23. TheDucks

    Extension Cord Routing ideas

    Believe me, I have let the magic smoke out of a goodly number of devices. Not all were cheap 😮
  24. As another option Walgreens has Poster printing for 24x36 size for about $20 at most photo locations
  25. You need to look at each source with an o-scope to see what THAT unit is doing to the waveform, then select the corrective action for THAT case. There is no magic 'fix' that works for all cases. And usually, these are never the cheap ones. 😕 An HIGH QUALITY 'Isolation Transformer' might help clean small waveform errors. A cheap one, won't, not enough Iron Now, if you have a Surplus Electronics warehouse handy. A multi-stage powerline EMI/RFI filter might remove some hash from the line (we are not talking about the cheaper 'common mode' versions the keep RF from leaking out of equipment. BTW I am assuming this is for AC type lights, which is CONTROLLED by modifying the waveform that reaches the lights. DC (RGB) controllers, may just need a higher quality power supply that can handle poor input waveforms better.