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Everything posted by TheDucks

  1. SPT 1 OR SPT 2?

    Just Standard Hardware issues: Too Long or Too Short IMHO get som Flag Zip ties and a fine point Sharpi. Labee both ends, even if it is just a unique number. saves 'follow that cord' #54 where are you (plugged in)
  2. SPT 1 OR SPT 2?

    SPT 2 is usually 16ga (~10A) , SPT 1 is 18ga (~3A) Do but the correct wire for the Vampire plugs you buy. SPT 2 will not fit SPT 1 vampires (I just returned a roll that I got from a high shelf and only looked at the shelf tag) SPT 1 in a SPT2 vampir might miss the prong or worse, the same lead hits BOTH because it is possible to be crooked.
  3. Why not have the last show be 'Lights 'Off'. My controllers stay powered. (all are out doors in LOR or CG1500 cases) Warm helps keep moisture at bay and is a less stressful startup (lights on) on a cold day
  4. From the blurb: The ShowTime miniDirector pulls its power from the nearest Light-O-Rama controller so there’s no worrying about ‘wall wart’ power supplies. When you use CAT5, there are power pins in that cable. Also many dumb light controllers will continue doing the last command without further input. So Twinkle, twinkiles until commanded OFF (or plug pulled)
  5. Loose Comm ports

    RS485 is pretty robust, but I would advise the precaution, specially when something is misbehaving
  6. Light Strands Per Channel?

    Mr P answered the basic. See the box (and sometimes the tag). The fuse in the plug protects the wire from overload. LEDs dray so little, that 1000 LEDs (10 strings) are easilly connected. OTOH Mini lights, typically are limited to 300 bulbs Eto E
  7. Light Strands Per Channel?

    Look at your strands (paperwork). How many can it support end to end? Each channel can easily support that number. (the fuse in the plug is usually 3-5A). If the fuse is 3 A, you can probably support 2 SETS (or equiv) of maxed out strings per channel on a CTB16PC (assumes you don't do something to trap the heat inside)
  8. Options on Types of Lights?

    The CMB24D (with Dumb RGB) is almost as easy to program as you AC controllers. You just get to specify COLOR.
  9. What does everyone use for their beginning show sequence?

    Anyone remember the opening of StarTrek the motion Picture (the part played before the curtain opened)?
  10. Yea! We were beginning to wonder.
  11. Whats a good setup to start with?

    IMHO don't try and do all with a single (or few as possible) controllers. (I am a fan of controllers near the props. CAT5 and AC cord to power the controller/PSU seems to me to be easier to make work. Smart RGB hate long leads. There are tricks, but that makes it more complicated. Dumb RGB is more forgiving, but you do need to watch total current per port, length of end to end strings. A ' feed at the leg of T', mitigates voltage drop, issues but you still need to watch Amperes per output.
  12. You did break the 12V line between Window 3 and Window 4. 2 different power sources (plus side) should not be connected together. Only the reference (Ground)
  13. Loose Comm ports

    If HU sees further controllers, the jack is still connected to the other RJ45. Not having the PCB films, I cant say if there are plated thru holes to feed the CONTROLLER circuits and have have become cracked IMHO CAT5 is really preferred over phone cable, but if you are NOT using the AUX power part from the CAT5, you should be OK BTW Secure the cables in a way that the jacks never get strained
  14. Power loss with 12 volt pixels

    Data is pulsed. Your DVM will not do justice. (you were probably reading cross talk, that went away with any load) There is no 'power (current) behind the clock. I would not expect to see any drop. If you had used a 'logic probe', you might see the data status light flash. Thermostat/Sprinkler wire has the ampacity. It may be too lossey for high frequency (clocks). Lets wait to see if any others have used this with success. 12.6 at the string end? possible, if there are no lights (load)
  15. Antennas (transmitting) are designed for the frequency of operation. The length of the driven element and or load coils to make the 'electrical length' correct for the frequency range. Failure to get it right, results in high SWR, poor performance and possible damage to the output driver. The more elements, the more (narrow) directive. A Dipole (1 element) has equal front and back (perpendicular to the elements) pattern. Since you probably don't need signal in or behind the show, a dipole wastes that energy. a 3 element beam (Reflector, Driven, Director) points more to the front. FWIW I expect a cheap 'city' VHF TV antenna with a matching coil (Most TV antennas are 300ohm. you need 75ohm (incl. coax and connector)
  16. Shorten LED Lights

    120V / bulb count = 2.4V per bulb You could possibly substitute a higher voltage bulb OF THE SAME mA rating (to maintain the same brightness of all bulbs) If you removed more than 3 bulbs, you probably burnt out a bulb (3*2.4=7.2 which is within normal line variation). IMHO Capping extra bulbs is simpler. BTW the fuse mostly protects the wire from overloading the daisy chain outlet. A string is a few hundred mA. the fuse is 3-5A
  17. Random channels comming on

    Cross talk is signals from 1 line bleeding (coupling) over to another. Possible vehicles: inter lead Capacitance. A good reason all lines that run any distance, be terminated (have a minimum load) Inductance. High current in one lead, induces voltage. Common example the 'light saber' hum Resistance. conductive 'dirt', 'solder bridge', poor or damaged insulation Poor power supply regulation. The Vcc wobbles with activity on one channel, and that 'wobble' appears as a ghost on another Print thru Common with magnetic media. The magnetic field of the recording, slowly magnetizes the adjacent layer with the same pattern. The stronger the signal (loud recording), the mor print thru. Really annoying if the adjacent section is 'quiet'. Vinyl records suffered adjacent groove distortion from loud passages.
  18. Random channels comming on

    Have you tried adding a snubber to these channels. (you can use a incan c7 night light and a cubetap) this might be cross talk sneaking into the channel.
  19. lor board

    It is a RJ45 (CAT 5 uses RJ45 with specific pins used depending on the Network TYPE.) if you are using a RS485 adapter, it is a LOR network and the daisy chain can be in any order. some controllers allow e1.31 mode, then it is a (ethernet) network jack AND can not be daisy chained
  20. Not to exceed 10% (theoretical) down from 12V or 10.8 (this is why I set the PSU to 12.6. It give me another 6/10 to play with without the risk of over voltage when all LEDS are off. BTW use a sewing PIN (pierce insulation) in the power wire at the first pixel to measure with
  21. Pixel nodes

    If they are Dumb, you have the 'red' wires on the 'blue' terminal. S4 just turns on the terminal for Blue when you say blue. OTOH Smart pixels get clocked. the order of the clocked pulses sets the color. Thus, you need to set the controller using the hardware Utility:cosmic color/Pixie config (IF LOR boards) to use the correct color order for your nodes. RGB, BGR... and if the channel sends RGB or does all R, then G, then B
  22. With all the lights ON? And White (the worst case draw)? I had 3 strings of 25 with 15' between and could not get above 10.3V at the start of string 3. And that was with my power supply set to 12.6 (5%. splits the 10% tolerance typical for 12V nominal) BTW I was using 3 core extension cables from the same light vendor. There was no issue, without the extra cables
  23. New and can't figure this out (UK lights problem)

    I have never seen a DC output rated in VA. VA is used for AC because of ELI the ICE man (AKA power factor due to phase angle) Your other choice is to get a CMB24D and a 24V power supply (or 2. depending on total load). the CMB24 will give you 12 4Amax (monochrome) ports PER BANK (you could make the other bank 5V or 12V. use any set of ports with dumb RGB of the proper voltage.
  24. New and can't figure this out (UK lights problem)

    How (what program) are you trying to do this? All my cheepo (1/2 wave) LED strings dim and shimmer just fine. Single brightness suggests constant current regulation (a blob) , instead if a simple, in line resistor (pencil dia)
  25. 1 1/2" steal pipe

    Black pipe is used (required) for Gas Lines. 1-1/2, 2 are frequently used for houses with tankless water heaters (gas is at a very low pressure past the meter, thus the big pipe to allow flow rates needed for these 'instant' heaters.