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TheDucks last won the day on September 30

TheDucks had the most liked content!

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About TheDucks

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    The Original Silicon Valley
  • Occupation
    mostly retired ElectronicTech (Navy and Civilian)

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    e-book reading and formatting, HiFi (surround sound), Home Electronics
  • How I learned about Light-O-Rama -
    TV news links
  • Favorite Decorating Holiday?
    Xmas and Haloween

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  1. TNX for the updated cause. Sneaky H2O
  2. TheDucks

    Easy Light Linkers

    Is the sequence sending to the same ID and network as the HU showed for the controller. (windows does change things from time to time)
  3. TheDucks

    Getting Started With PIxels

    Those look like what HC used to sell (and most of what I have). Now they include w/p connectors (and they have 3 core cords that make everything easy. just remember, cords are not universal. You are buying into their ecosystem. ) I used plastic plumbers tape, and a 12MM step reamer (part of a set from Amazon) to drill every 4th hole. ( that = 12' for 50 nodes). That means you need at least 30 @ 50cnt strings and 90A of power TOTAL (you might be on the edge on some of the Pixie 8's with just 1 supply for both banks. Calculate the node PER CONTROLLER . you might want to get an extra supply, pigtails and various length cords. I found 15", 10'+pigtails was solid for my 80cnt ) If you haven't figured, all the bits and pieces add up fast. You still need enclosures (many use the Cableguard CG-1500 do shop for these, a bulk buy saves, even if you don't need all now (~$20). HC has accessory plates to mount the PS inside US Shipping is not terrible if you don't want rush.
  4. TheDucks

    Getting Started With PIxels

    I use the 33A Weather resistant ones from HC on the outside -back of my CG1500 enclosures (I can put 2 because my enclosures are closet pole mounted. I have a Pixie4 and a CMB24 in each enclosure) to avoid the PSU's heat. Others use the interior ones. Designers choice.: Inside-Outside Ohio probably does not have many days above 60 during show season, so cooling may not be an issue. Note these supplies are ON at near idle, 24/7. My idle power for 2 @ ctb16's and 3 PSU's (1 Pixie4 2 @ CMB24) is 50W If I understand your notation 3/8 means 3 ports used of a Pixie8 ? What are you planning for node spacing? Just tossing ideas: For example, the Garage door border is typ 27'. That is 1or 2 port (100 nodes) of HC 12V Bullets (6A power budget all white), not 3 Maybe run Windows 1 & 2 from the Wreath controller 5 of 8 leaving 3 spares. the lower windows now can be a Pixie 8 (6 of 8 ) (the reasoning: less spares, you now have 3 pixie 8's) Are floods in your future? leaving room for a CMB24 in the enclosure might be a plus. (a Pixie 8 or 16 will fit where I have a Pixie4, but I would have serious PSU load issues with just my PSUs if I went up to a Pixie 16) FWIW My longest Smart node run is 86 nodes (22'), I still have dumb nodes on the ridge So please remember, I am just tossing ideas. I am still (and always be) a novice lighter.
  5. TheDucks


    Your new dongle will get assigned a new Com port. Use the HU to discover the new COM#, then change it (Regular) to using the Network utility. Hmm! this may be the one time (single adapter) that you could click the button: Use this for show. ONLY if you have a Single Network)
  6. TheDucks

    2 Houses - Dueling Banjos Jingle Bells

    Very Nice. Hardly anyone at my end of the block has any Lights. Nice to see some folk like to light things up.
  7. TheDucks

    Getting Started With PIxels

    You need dimensions for EACH line so you can calculate the number of nodes (count per foot). Then you can figure where the feeds should be (I use 100 nodes per PIXIE port without injection). Then figure out where the controllers go, remembering you have a limited distance to the first node of every port (15' is safe on older pixies) See, not all locations will have the same controllers (although, if your budget allows. having extra ports does not hurt)
  8. TheDucks

    Best fuse cap replacements?

    I agree with Jim. 99% of the time it is physical damage (smashed by other items) Also note: Unless things have changed, Buss and Littlefuse parts are not interchangeable (I would assume that this includes other brands)
  9. TheDucks

    The same ol, same ol GFCI tripping issue

    Your guesse is spot on. 160 Metre band (Real Long wave stuff), SSB is single Side Band QRM is man made noise (arcing, electronic) QRN is Natural Noise (Lightning)
  10. Mostly dimmed generates the most line 'noise'.( I remember have a 1970's dimmer and hearing about it from my dad, a 'Ham' radio operator) The ON time is relatively short. and you have at least 45 doing it at the same time
  11. You may be dumping EMI into the (Green) ground due to fast switching in that sequence. The odd thing, is GFCI's look at the precise Balance of Hot to Neutral. Not Ground. so maybe the Triacs insulator is breaking down only under switching. Try the HU Twinkle on that controller (that does ON/Off), and Shimmer (more of an Up/Dn)
  12. TheDucks

    Mounting controller to mega tree pole

    LOR Gen 2 cases have Tabs that you can use Stainless Hose clamps on, or bolts thru Gen3 Bokes have side punch outs on the saddle for the Hose clamps or screw holes
  13. TheDucks

    Waterproof connectors... Aren't?

    I would not trust them because that design is variable length. Get the ones that are fixed length (the ones about the size of a Fosters can will work for straight plugs of any size. Yes 30A twistlocks). These have rubber edge seals and rubber cord seals) I have 4 and am getting more. I also have smaller ones from Home Depot, but stacking plugs overwhelm them )
  14. TheDucks

    Video of my 2018 Christmas Display

    Love the Arch work. I was not paying attention to your thread title and saig "Oh! Enya" Amazing how some artists style is fairly unique.