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TheDucks

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TheDucks last won the day on October 28

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About TheDucks

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    Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Orcutt, Santa Maria, CA
  • Occupation
    mostly retired ElectronicTech (Navy and Civilian)

More About Me

  • Interests
    e-book reading and formatting, HiFi (surround sound), Home Electronics
  • How I learned about Light-O-Rama -
    TV news links
  • Favorite Decorating Holiday?
    Xmas and Haloween

LOR Software

  • LOR Software Version
    4.4.4
  • License Level
    Pro

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  1. Node 51 has a channel of 151,152,153 in your sequence? (the rest progress from there)
  2. for E1.31 if you are lucky enough to have a canvas (yard) large enough to HAVE TO worry about the 300' limit. Place 1 (or more) Ethernet switches in central locations to your E1.31 type controllers. Each LEG has the 300' limit. Ethernet is a Star topology. LOR (RS485) is a daisy chain topology
  3. Ah! You have the older SERIAL adapter. You need the Newer USB Version (get the Red one, you might need to add Pixies later (But you software will need to be updated to at least 4.x)
  4. The LOR adapter IS NOT ETHERNET Do not plug you CTB16 into ANY Ethernet port. Smoke may happen
  5. Not answering your Q directly 😕 WHY, for 1 @ 4W bulb per channel, risk the aggravation ? If this was a string of 25, ABSOLUTELY (although you might need 1 a hidden one as a snubber because of the older model controller)
  6. Again, the order of controllers does not matter. The number of Networks (Adapters does not really mater. JUST NEVER connect a cable between 2 controllers on different Networks) eg; (This years arrangement. very simple animated show ) Look at the crazy numbering (the order is from when bought and built the controller boxes) Computer (Com12) -- Black LOR (Regular,115K) ---- CTB16v2#02---CMB24#07-CMB24#05 Computer (Com14) - Red LOR (AuxA, 500K) --- Pixie4#30-CMB24#04--CTB16v3#08 Computer(Com15) - Red LOR (AuxB,500K) --- Pixie8#04--CTB16v3#020-CMB24#03--Pixie4#38--CTB16v3#01 You use the Network utility to Map COM# to LOR adapter (and set the speed). The rest of LOR uses the NETWORK NAME. Label your adapters with the name. Windows remembers Com#'s and the adapter will use that next time connected. 💡 Don't click the OK if HU offers to change a found adapter to Regular for your show. That will mess up your previous Network Configuration. HU will find any controller connected to the selected COM-adapter pair.
  7. I am picking Nits. Pixies do not USE 60A, They CAN DISTRIBUTE up to 60A (30A per bank). It is the Strings (the load) that suck power. White is the worst case with R,G&B all on just a string power WAG: 100 White: 15*5= 75A (and they could be a bit higher. My HC bullets run 3A/50) Not only do you have that poor 30A gasping, you have overloaded BOTH buses. You need to: Get 3 more 30A supplies (1 for the other bank feed) PLUS use the other 2 (1 per banks members) to Power inject the .ALL the 100 node strings Avoiding a high percentage of White nodes , keeps the demand lower.
  8. the 300 (100M) for number is for Ethernet, not RS485
  9. 4000' is the total length of a chain of cables. You ain't even close 😛 You are describing bent pins or cracked trace symptoms AND PLEASE It is a 'CAT5 cable'. E1.31 uses Ethernet (found on the Pixcon). We don't want newbies attaching a RS485 port to an Ethernet switch just because the cables look the same
  10. What model 'boxes'? Define 'Bad" (this usually is a list of expect vs results) Tell us about how it is hooked up.
  11. 80W used if you have the LOR Flood 8-pack Mr P points out that many 5M strips (or 50cnt Bullets) run ~36W each (or about 4 floods worth) Those numbers are for White. Single color usage is about 1/3 (IIRC Red take a bit more, and Blue a bit less). IMHO 100% is not a number to aim at or hit. Especially for some of the flash effects we do. (Slamming from 0-100% load repeatedly is verry hard on the circuitry.. Ramping is kindly ). Were theses well ventilated? Open air is best as that is why they are W/P. I use the 400W (33A) one from HC, ($28+shipping), but enclosing these will still lead to failure also, they do get warm even under a 200W load. If you are pushing a CMB24 to the LIMITS, you need 2 of these: 1 for each 30A bank (the extra 3 is good headroom)
  12. Houses in the US have 2 phases (Red and Black is common naming). Your display may just be on the other phase if no flicker. The phase with the flicker is the one with the problem It may be that the entire neighborhood major loads have all landed in the same phase leg. Have your electrician swap Red with Black (DO NOT DO THIS if you have 3 phase equipment. very rare in residential. Motors could run backwards and break stuff)
  13. And how much change you send down the wires at any given time. For ME 😳 , your rig would be fine. I have VERY simple. For most of the Vids I have seen her. Each Pixie 16 on Individual RED on 500K minimum 😛
  14. It appears that there are 2 different technical problems here. 1) Buzz and hum from the dimmers. What you are describing is 'so 1970's ' With modern equipment, LOR and most stuff you get t the home store, this should not be an issue. Check the quality of your grounds (GREEN wire) all the way, including the ground ROD. Many communities have replaced METAL water lines. With that, went the OLD ground method. Ground RODS or UFER in newer homes are needed 2) Flicker can be caused by poor connections ANYWHERE in the system. (includes the Utility) Unless your neighborhood heats by electric, Winter loads should now be lower due to more use of LED and CFL than in the 90's and before. That means less stress. Contact the Public Utilities Commission that REGULATES your Utility. (They blew their chance to do it the friendly way. Don't let another PG&E event happen to your community) When was the last time your panel was inspected (not the building department type) for connection integrity? Discoloration of wires near connections or the bodies of the breakers (I I pulled a older, long style Zinsco and had it crumble. It was the others that were holding it together. Got FPE? GET THE PANEL REPLACED. Proven fail to trip.
  15. 29V just probably makes up for the small wire resistance. 24V is a very standard voltage. I was thinking I could just series a 12V wall wort with the PORT + output if I needed to run a single string from a 12V CMB24.
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