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TheDucks

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TheDucks last won the day on October 28 2019

TheDucks had the most liked content!

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About TheDucks

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Orcutt, Santa Maria, CA
  • Occupation
    mostly retired ElectronicTech (Navy and Civilian)

More About Me

  • Interests
    e-book reading and formatting, HiFi (surround sound), Home Electronics
  • How I learned about Light-O-Rama -
    TV news links
  • Favorite Decorating Holiday?
    Xmas and Haloween

LOR Software

  • LOR Software Version
    4.4.4
  • License Level
    Pro

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. You did say all conductors are 16Ga Current is Additive in a Neutral unless there is a corresponding identical load on the other phase (120-n-120) like a US house is wired. 100W -N-100W will result in near 0 neutral current for a 120/240 feed Since a majority of us do not have (L)14 feeds (4wire, 120/240) to our LOR controllers you need a neutral conductor sized to handle ALL LOADS 100% ( now see you tripled up the the neutral, you now match the CTB Input cord (15A) 👍 The Green needs the same treatment. It in not until you get past 40A, are you allowed to run reduced sized ground (per NEC)
  2. Very nice looking work.. But 12 core? Is it Armored cable? I ask because you used the 3WIRE pigtails.and unless those Greens are connected to a GROUNDED Armor Braid , you present a hazard opportunity to the unsuspecting that may attach something with the 3rd prong that could possible energize other 3rd prong devices on the same Spider box. IIRC there is also a NEC limit of 6 feet for use of raceway only grounding.. After that, a ground conductor must be used.
  3. I don't have one. There may be a YouTube for a Generic. You need to do a bit of circuit tracing. (funny, I have been doing electronics so long, I don't even think about doing tasks like this 🤔 and I forget it really is not that simple for others ) You will strip out / cut the builtin controller connections to the LED . Each LED color has a resistor. The (color) connection goes there. You also need to find where +12V goes
  4. How good is your soldering? (assumes these are 12VDC and you have a CMB24 to run it) You need to open he back. Locate the controller (you are going bypass this) You need some 4 conductor ROUND (to maintain w/p) cable. You need to LEAVE the individual (R G B ) series resistors inline (the limit current AND balance the intensities)
  5. I gently coil my strips with bullets, wire side in, into a 32gal (Red) Sterilite tote. There is plenty of room for other stuff in bags or containers, since the tote is rectangular and the coils are circular(ish :p ) The main goal: is not to make real tight coils.
  6. I have a Optiplex 780, w/8G RAM Core Duo 3.07GHz and it runs 4.4.4 just fine. If you can, ADD/UPGRADE RAM to 8G W10 uses a good chunk of that before Apps. Older DDR3 RAM should be cheap (2 @ 4G strips $33)
  7. I believe RIP is on the menubar on Media Player (it looks like a disc next to the title. Remember to configure yor RIP settings (right click the art: more options)
  8. A laptop CAN use a Powered USB HUB. That can add up to 7 Ports I Googled, and this popped up http://www1.lightorama.com/PDF/PixieLink_Datasheet.pdf but I think this is an obsolete item
  9. LOR store sequences list the required (what was used to create the sequence) It shows under the Add to cart. eg Duration (min:sec):3:03 Base Sequence Configuration:68 channels and 32 pixels Amazon ASIN:B00KAYYSW2 Other (shared) should be able to tell you what Son or Album they used
  10. TheDucks

    lor

    Orville Those are BRILLIANT 👍 (except the Presidents one)
  11. Something with a 17" display and loads of RAM and a DVI port for when you want a to use another monitor or TV with it. My old L675 Toshiba had a 2 core AMD , it seemed to do fine. To me, the touchpad operation is most important if you can't use a mouse with it. Try before you BUY.
  12. Switch the probe positions (polarity) LEDs are diodes. the control chio is transistors. They have polarity. The Beep (is usually a diode tester) Front/back tests are common Diode tests.
  13. Uh, I am a few months from the big 75 (but then, I have always done electronics from a time I could hold a soldering iron) One eye gone wacky and poor balance are keeping me on the ground, and really put a crimp into my fabricating of things (large, spinning blades are a serious NO!)
  14. no, and please stop thinking in COM# for USB, You are working with LOR Network names for all sequnces. At some point, you will use the network utility to map Current COM# > LOR Network. A USB Hub is simple, it does not act like anything but a Hub, It is the LOR adapter that calls for a COM# assignment when it connects. 💡 I suggest you Mark the adapter with The LOR name. it will normally get the same assignment,whichever USB port it ends up on for THAT PC)0
  15. For Pixels, you need a controller that does E1.30 or LOR 500k+. The controller choice decides. It would be ab Addition to you existing system. OTOH Having a (spare) HS adapter never hurts. Switching gears. Looking at your house (placement): IMHO Pixels (detail) would be lost at that (100') distance. Why not just go for Dumb (CMB24) RGB ones, that still allows for color choice? Do others Agree with my take?
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