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TheDucks

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TheDucks last won the day on October 28 2019

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About TheDucks

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Orcutt, Santa Maria, CA
  • Occupation
    mostly retired ElectronicTech (Navy and Civilian)

More About Me

  • Interests
    e-book reading and formatting, HiFi (surround sound), Home Electronics
  • Favorite Decorating Holiday?
    Xmas and Haloween

LOR Software

  • LOR Software Version
    4.4.4
  • License Level
    Pro

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  1. Nice thing about the CMB series is you can always split it (add the second Supply) later. The 16 is a bit odd (to us dumb RGB users) in that there are 8 lines per bank (That is 2 dumb RGB + 2 spare ) For Halloween, I use a lot of ports individually. Skeleton Hands 1 ot per hand. Plastic Pumpkins, 1 out for home made ,4 white strip segments glued onto1/2 PVC to replace the 120V bulb socket. You can even cut up Mini-lights into 12V clusters (calculate how many bulbs make 12V. 10 bulb strings use 10 @ 12V bulbs
  2. Use the HU to just for a quick test, set channel 10 (port4 Red) on, do the same for each of the others (G,B) As others have said. Move the Flood to another port. if the trouble follows, it is from the plug to the LED. if that is fine: Inspect the connections to the board, be diligent that the insulation DID NOT make it into the clamp zone. Look for corrosion or Discoloration (sign if heat from high resistance) You need at least 80W supply if all floods are White. personally, I would not have less than 100W, better reserv for rapid intensity changes. Note: a port can easily support 2 @ of those floods. IIRC LOR sells a Y for that purpose
  3. Usually on many LOR cards with 'banks', there is one 'bank' power input that needs to be 9V or higher, because that 'bank' also powers the board. Need to run both at 5V, then you use the barell connector with a 12V DC wall wort. Nothing special other than center is +
  4. If you have a Gen 3 AC controller use the HU to set the dimming curve for those channels to ON/OFF. Should save you (I did a HU test one time on a Gen 2 and killed a 'smart string' ouch!)
  5. There are different requirements, depending on what you are doing at the time. S5 dictates the OS (and possibly the RAM, but W10 probably needs 4G min) 1) Display A SHOW. This could be a laptop with lots of good USB ports to connect to the controllers. (advantage, is it is also portable and small, coupled with controllers on a truck, this could be good) 2) Design a show. This is where much of the hard stuff is done. Good Graphics capacity (ability for 2 Monitors is sweet). Since I don't do Video, I can only say a I3 class is good enough for the basics)
  6. 4000' is 1 end to the other. with the director or LOR dongle being the start. (I don't have a clue with a ELL receiver, but I guess that is a full regen start over In reality, it will a bit less (you need perfect termination, noise free paths) . There is no minimum between like Ethernet. The 50' to director is a POWER limit. If you power the director direct with a wall wort, that number gets binned
  7. Pixies and CMB24 all accept Only wire leads into screw clamp headers, Ferrels or tinned wires seriously recommended
  8. The better part of using CAT6 vs CAT5 is the wire supports higher power (POE) devices, but this is also a good thing for LOR folk powering cards/ELL from remote. longer distances
  9. I don't know where you got your Info, but it is really odd (and I have been an ET for 50+ years, when there were mostly RED @ 20mA and 7 segment digits) From a Wiki String current is a factor of the LED (array) arrangement. 12V strings dissipate a bit more because of the additional chip regulation
  10. A Pixie type device uses 1 LOR ID per output (whether it is used or not) Yo set the First port ID. It inherits the rest from the base that you set. eg Set a Pixie 4 to 0C (it also gets 0D, 0E, 0F) (AFAIK a CC device is similar)
  11. You may be being caught with the Dimensional weight charge (LxWxGirth) , but that still seems high for Ground, Dimensional was originally to catch Light-but Bulky Air cargo, Less honorable merchants advertise low prices and use a highly inflated S&H. I can't imagine LOT doing this
  12. You can always use a standard 12VDC (center + ) wall wort with the director. These are very common, you may have some saved: some Older LCD monitors, routers/switches, Security Cameras are common uses
  13. Resistors (values) are selected to MATCH the strings they came with. Change ANYTHING about the string and you need a new value. Black ZIP ties (higher UV resistance than clear or other colors) and a $20 Zip tie tool from Amazon (they work fairly well without paying the Panduit 😵 price)
  14. Pixie 8 uses EIGHT ID's per controller 01 - 08, 09 - 0F (your Pro level is more than good for this) You set the controller to the bold
  15. I was thinking Infrastructure wiring (to jacks). By all means, use CAT5 patch cords (they are stranded) to the controllers. CAT 6 require a bit thicker conductors (better for POE applications), as Jim mentioned: a higher twist. I have had good luck running Stereo Audio over a couple of pairs without any special electronics.
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