Jump to content
Light-O-Rama Forums


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Posts posted by OzAz

  1. 8 hours ago, WhitePlainsNY said:

    It's difficult to make out the chains on the left but you see them on the right side of the photo. It's white PVC with red duct tape in a spiral with a over-sized, plastic ornament glued to the top. Plastic red and white chains connected the posts.



    stealing that idea ?


    • Like 1

  2. I sort of agree that 'smart' RGB Pixels on singing faces is a bit of a waste (mine are wire frames with M5 leds) but if using certain other sequencing software then its hardly any extra effort between leds, dumb RGB and 'smart' RGB pixels.

    • Like 1

  3. @dibblejr As far as I know, you record the video using the drone, then use video editing software, to add the audio track (using the original mp3).

    I believe some people put some sort of timing mark in their light sequence so they can align the video and audio tracks more easily (don't ask me how).

  4. The ones you see that are so bright you can see them 'on their own' are usually an Arc lamp (not LED) of about 200W or more, like the Clay Paky Sharpy or Martin MACs

    You may want to be sitting down with a pace maker handy before looking at the prices on this site (for example)  ?


    I use a couple of moving head lights in my display, but they are mounted on a balcony, and I use them to put moving circles of colour onto the house, and occasionally pointing towards the viewers (like they do at concerts sometimes).
    So once you've purchased a few Clay Paky's or similar for the roof, you can still use your current LED moving heads on the house. :)

    If you watch this video (not mine) you can see an example of using 2 low power (either 60 or 90W LED Spots) moving heads shining onto a house

  5. I'd suggest you go for strip with 30 LEDs per metre, rather than the 60 as per original link.

    In fact you could buy two rolls of these LOR strips cut each in half (for 4 x 2.5m strips of 75 LEDS) and 1 Pixie4 (plus power supply, enclosure and cabling)  and make 4 arches.

    Or, if you want to buy a ready-to-run controller with room for expansion then maybe the Pixcon16? 

    Of course like anything in this hobby there's a heap of other products and methods of controlling lights and building props.

  6. if you want to make your own animated gifs https://www.piskelapp.com/ is a good program and free (use online or downloadable version)

    one of the handy features is that you can set the size of the work-space to the corresponding number of pixels in your matrix


    For editing existing videos ( to make them shorter or to clip particular sections out ) http://avidemux.sourceforge.net/  is a simple yet effect - free - tool


    forgot to add: I believe you can also do animated gifs in SuperStar, though I've not used it 

  7. What @k6ccc said, it's the voltage drop in the wiring that will cause the issue. I generally go on the principle 5V = 50 pixels, 12v = 100 pixels before power injection is required.

    As others have said lowering intensity can extend these numbers, but gauge of cable (AWG), length of cable between pixels and length of cable between sets of pixels are factors that need to be considered.

    I have 2 lengths of (12V) 50 pixels that work if the pigtails are joined together, but if I put an extension cable between them, even only a 5ft one, then I get power and data related issues.


    Here's a calculator that may help, if you want to get technical.


  8. The number of power supplies you will need depends on 1) wattage of each pixel 2) total number of pixels - the attached calculator shows several examples, and also allows you to enter your own.
    (make sure you hover your mouse of the row header to see the explanation comments.)

    Wattage of pixels is obtained from the vendor's website, pixels can range from .3 W to .8 W each, which is a big difference in total watts when using 1,000s of pixels

    Numbers of power supplies required is based on running the power supply at 85% of it's maximum rated output (this is a generalised recommended max) for all white pixels with controller at 100% brightness.

    Obviously you'll also need an amount of power for the controller itself, though most 16 ch rgb controllers don't use that much power (yet to find power usage ratings for rgb controllers).

    Obviously if you run your controllers at reduced brightness (I run mine at 40-50% and it's still quite bright to look at) then you could get away with fewer power supplies in some instances. Word of warning - relying on reduced brightness in the controller to overcome power draw from the power supply could have catastrophic consequences, do so at own risk. 


    In the scheme of things the cost of power supplies is not that much, if you are going to power inject (which you'll need to for 24 strings of 120 pixels) then you may as well be conservative. Design for all white pixels (ie max wattage per pixel) with controller at 100% brightness and max of 85% power draw from power supply; and you shouldn't have any issues.  





    power calculator.xls

  9. 1. mega tree - rgb smart/intelligent pixels this

    You can have any combination of LED's, AC lights, Dumb RGB, Smart RGB in your display;  you just need the relevant controller for each type. Though less different types of lights = less different controllers = less headaches. :)



  10. @Tim Dorr  for ventilation 1 or 2 (depending on how hot the climate is) of something like these vents (with a 12V fan) at the top of the box and  1or 2 vents (with insect screen to stop bugs getting in) at the bottom of the box should do the trick. If you put a shelf in the box make sure it has holes/slots in it so airflow can move from bottom to top. Those vents should be available on amazon or hardware stores


  11. If you are thinking going pixels, go 'smart' RGB pixels. Offers much more versatility. You can still treat them as 'dumb' pixels and light them all the same colour, or using the pixel editor make what ever colours and patterns you want.

    If you think 10 windows is too much this year, just do some of them, then next year add the rest, If you add a little bit each year, not only does it make it less daunting a task, but also gives visitors something new to see next year. :)

    Of course some people will tell you to do all 10 windows, doors, garages, eaves and roof outlines in one go, but each to their own.  :D

  12. Lights - low wattage LEDs 

    Controller - one of the many pixel controllers on the market. Depending on number of lights you want you might be able to run them all off a few Pis 

    Computer - consider a Rasberry Pi

  13. my 2c on FM Transmitters.

    Don't be too fussy or concerned about location or antennas. Doesn't really matter where the device is as long as you can extend the antenna as high as you can. 

    Mine came with a fairly long wire antenna (assume yours has too), the transmitter is at about waist height, the antenna loops over the rails of the garage door system. Despite the antenna not even being straightened out, and despite being looped around metal objects, reception in the viewing area is fine. I can even still get reception about a 1/4 mile away and I can't see my house from there.


    It often amazes me that some people get real concerned about FM Transmitters and get high power ones and/or make fancy antennas for them. Bottom line is, reception only needs to be good to where people are going to be watching your lights. Which is usually in their cars across the road from your property. So unless the best viewing for your lights is half a mile away then don't worry too much about your FM transmitter. :D   (Disclaimer: I do realise there are differences in FM Transmitters and some will produce a much better quality sound, with less noise)

    As @k6ccc said, test it now. Set it up where you think is good for you, play some music through it then park your car across the road and see what the reception is like. 

  14. For @Wayne K and others for future reference, both Boscoyo and HC sell pixel matrix "mesh/net" and both their sites have guidelines on number of pixels required depending on spacing between pixels of 2", 3" or 4". HC even has a recommended viewing distance chart.

    Obviously if you drop down to 1", or closer, spacing between pixels then you'll have to work out total number required and best viewing distance yourself :)

    The closer the pixel spacing the better the resolution obviously, so if you want to display reasonable quality graphics you'll need close spacing.

    My new 16x50 ( 800 pixels ) matrix (using 2 sheets of mesh) has 3" spacing. It will be viewed from at least 30 feet away (once I work out how to mount it  :(  ). 

    video of it running a basic test, shot with mobile phone from balcony (about 9' or 10' away?), brightness has since been turned down ;)


  15. On 9/20/2017 at 3:05 AM, jerry72 said:

    I tired to get an answer over on the xlights forums, got nothing but flack.

    was that from Gil? he can be a bit testy at times

    There was some discussion on xLights forum/fb about the correction factor in SS and the difficulties trying to work out what the values were and how to readjust for them. I think things may only get worse as more LOR users use S5, as inference is it's going to be harder for xLights to convert LOR sequences then.

    That said, getting colours in any program to match a physical item is always difficult, they should match what the chart @Mr. P posted, but there are several factors that can alter that. One being your computer monitor, which you can calibrate using a colorimeter if you want 100% accuracy and don't mind spending a few hundred dollars. Another one is the lights themselves, different batches/manufacturers can have slight variations.

    As others have said, if you want lights to be a particular colour, set it in your program of choice then run the lights and tweak the colour in the program till the lights shine the colour you want.

    I found orange hard to get right (wanted it for a halloween sequence), so I set a basic orange in program turned on lights, adjusted program till lights were the colour I liked, then wrote down the RGB and HSL numbers for future reference. :)


  16. LOR works fine on Win 10.

    There should be no issue with file transfer between the two computers. Similar to what @k6ccc said (but without the network drive) your two computers should have the same LOR main directory, and sub-directories. eg C:\LOR  (which I think is the default when installing LOR ?).

    LOR license covers 5 computers, so no issues keeping them both at the same version (highly recommended).

    If you don't want to work with network shared drives and such you could use a program like TeamViewer or AnyDesk to transfer required files from one computer to the other. 

    This is pretty much how I have my system setup, main computer in study to do all the programming on; small cheaper computer in the garage to run the show. Two computers on the home wifi and I use AnyDesk to transfer the files. Using AnyDesk (or TeamViewer) I can also program stuff (eg make changes to show schedule) on the show computer from the comfort of my study.


    Forgot to add; Added bonus, show computer acts as an extra backup to your files :)

  17. depending on how big your property is will depend on what sort, and how many, outdoor speakers may be required.

    You may get away with a cheap amplifier and couple of standard outdoor speakers mounted under eaves, or for a bigger property you may consider a multi channel amplifier and several speakers scattered thru the yard, eg: outdoor rock speakers on amazon if you want to 'hide' the speakers. 

    The amplifier connects to the audio out of your show computer. 

    have a look at at this outdoor speaker planning guide for some ideas.

    I've just got an fm transmitter connected to the show computer and a 'dj' amplified speaker (which has a built-in fm receiver) in the yard, I made a coro box (decorated to look like a christmas present) to cover the speaker

  18. also remember, that unless you're using very high quality power supplies you should try and stay under 85% of the maximum rated output. eg a 12V 350W power supply you should try for no more than about 297.5W of load.

    If you are close to the limit, consider running the controller at less than 100% brightness, or use less than 100% brightness in the sequencer, especially when using all white.

    It can be handy to have a spreadsheet with all your props in it to work out power requirements etc, attached is a sample one with some sample data: 

    power calculator.xls

    • Thanks 1

  19. 3 hours ago, Mr. P said:

    .. the Alphapix is an E1.31 controller only, it will not daisy chain into an LOR network. ...

    however, the alphapix does have dmx output and you could run your lor controllers in dmx mode (Falcon boards have the same capability) 


    the wonderful thing about this hobby, so much to choose from and everyone has an opinion on which is best :lol:

    I have no opinion, I just provide options :) 

  • Create New...