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About DownTown

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    Absecon, NJ
  • Occupation
    Information Assurance Engineer for FAA

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    Lighting, flying, computers, pond keeping, Blokarting
  • How I learned about Light-O-Rama -
    Carson Williams video on youtube about a century ago.
  • Favorite Decorating Holiday?

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  1. Just to re-enforce what the others have said. You need to have the channels in some sort of order that makes sense to your brain, like George said. You can have a "timing channel" (or 3, or 10...). Once you have one sequence with the channels in the order you like, that becomes your master. You can export the channel config and get ready to import to the other sequences. Before you start importing the channel config to your other sequences, you need to go through each of them and make sure that your channels are in the EXACT SAME order as you have them in your "master" sequence. That includes timing channels. You can drag and drop them where you need to move them to. Just be careful that they are in the SAME ORDER as in the master. You don't have to worry about what you named them from sequence to sequence, just that they control the same lights. For instance, first a timing channel, then mini trees, then roof line lights, then arches, then another timing channel, then mega trees, then candy canes, then another timing channel. If that's what's in the master sequence, that's what HAS to be in the rest of the sequences before you import. When you do the import, the channel names will all match, the controller and circuit assignments will all be in the same order, and everything will be pretty. Not rocket science, but tedious. Then when you go to program a brand new sequence, you create the file, Assign the media file, and then import the channel config. You will be ready to start programming the new sequence with exactly the same config as the rest of your sequences. If you need to add props, they MUST be added to the bottom of the channel list. After you've set up the new channels in one of your sequences, export it. That one is now your master. You can then open each of your other sequences and import THAT channel config. The new channels will be added to the bottom of the channel list, ready to be programmed, all without disturbing the existing channels. Hope some of this helps you out. It's not hard and will save you time in the long run. D.T.
  2. Thanks for the update. I'm glad to know that all is well. D.T. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Greetings! First a little background: I've been using LOR products since 2006, and have always received great products and service from them. Fast forward 11 years to current day. Actually let's roll the clock back about 6 weeks. I requested assistance with a CCF that was not lighting properly after years of use. They issued an RMA, and that week, I shipped the bad head back to them. They received it on June 2nd. I've heard nothing from them since they issued the RMA. I have re-opened my ticket, requesting a status update (twice). No response. I have called their office (twice), only to get Dan's recorded message. Is there trouble in River City? I hope everything is OK with Dan, Mary and company. Does anyone know anything about what's going on? I thought they might close down for the 4th of July holiday, but wanted to know if I should be worried about them. Thanks for any info. D.T.
  4. Disregard my question. I decided that it might be more expedient to go to LOR helpdesk for an answer. The got back to me within minutes. The new RGBF heads are not compatible with the old CCF controller. Thanks for looking. D.T.
  5. Hi guys... I have the old style CCFs lighting the front of my house year round. They are the ones that have the long, narrow lamp head. I have one head that has a failed LED in one of the elements (one color in one of the LEDs not working). My question is, are the new RGBF 10W floods compatible? Can I replace the old CCF head with a new RGBF head, or will I have to buy a whole new RGBF kit (heads, controller, power supply, enclosure...)? I don't really want to change out everything, but it appears that the old style CCF is no longer supported. Thanks a lot for your response. D.T.
  6. TheDucks, I've seen sub zero temps here, but certainly not this year. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Not sure if k6ccc interpreted right, or maybe I interpreted wrong... I go from My show PC directly to an iDMX1000, The iDMX has a 2 typical XLR connectors for the DMX data, and feeds my DMX fixtures. The iDMX also has a second RJ-45 that lets you continue to the next LOR controller in the series, and so my network looks like PC -> iDMX -> LOR -> LOR -> LOR etc...
  8. Subzero? Really? You must be in the REALLY northern part of south Jersey
  9. There used to be an active South Jersey group, but I'm not sure if they still do their get-togethers. D.T.
  10. Yep, if you use a different spotlight (or flood light) for each "scene" and plug each light into a different channel. Or you could use a moving head light and have it move from scene to scene, showing the story to the viewers. D.T.
  11. If each of those first two controllers work OK independently, maybe you could try plugging in one of them, and then bypassing the next one and connecting the next one downstream (the ones outside). See what happens. Does the rest of the string work, or do you lose everything again? If you lose everything, then try the OTHER controller in the garage, and plug in the line to the outside devices, leaving that first controller out or the string. What happens in this config? Give us more info and we'll help you try to resolve. D.T.
  12. Just remember that a real smile always has "wrinkle lines" around the eyes. Without those lines, she'll know you're faking it. Make sure you practice before the big day. (and you might want to get a cheapie drone to practice flying around the house or yard to get the hang of things before you ruin a new, high priced Phantom.) Don't forget, when the camera comes out,, say "Wrinkle lines"
  13. You're saying that there is no red light on the controller when you have channels 1-8 plugged in. Could it be that you've unplugged the power cord for channels 9-16 (of the 2 power cords that feed the controller)? If so, then that's your problem. The electronics in the controller are powered by the cord that powers channels 9-16. There will be no signs of power if you only have the one cord that feeds channels 1-8 plugged in. D.T.
  14. Hey Dan, I just voted... you have a BIG lead at the moment, something like 118 to 18. Looks like this will be a walk in the park So tell us, what are WE going to win?? Good luck! D.T.
  15. I agree with this sentiment 100%. Don't skimp on the communications infrastructure for your show. Copper is king in the Cat 5 world. D.T.
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