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morrisonri

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About morrisonri

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  1. I use the ball method. When I put my lights up, I put them up in order of color. First I do all the green, and then I do all the red, then all the white, and then all blue. As I put the lights up, I turn each LOR channel on, on the corresponding LOR controller for that color (using the Light-O-Rama Hardware utility) to verify the light sting is still working . When complete the yard and house will all be the same color. It usually takes me one night to put up all of the particular color that I am working with. I have had neighbors stop by and tell me how cool the display looks, as one night it will be all green and the next night it will be all red and so on. When I take the light strings down I do it in reverse order, first blue, then white, then red, and last green. As I take the light strings down I roll them into a ball by wrapping them around the palm of my hand. After i have the light ball ready for storage, I test the lights. To see if the string has gone bad (and you can tell). If the light string is bad I put the string in the repair bin for later repair. If the lights are good they go into bins according to color. There seems to be no tangles when I use this approach.
  2. I caught the bug in December 2007 and started with 32 channels. The plan was to double the channels in 2008 to 64. Some how with the February sale and the summer sale, then needing one last 16 channel controller for my 2008 display which I received on December 5, 2008. My total channel count was at 152 for 2008.
  3. I guess I had better get on the train as well. Scott would you add me to the list.
  4. I used a 1 1/2 " PVC coupler threaded on one end. I painted the LED holders black and drilled two 1/4" holes in them 90 degrees apart. one hole for mounting the other for a wire passage. Here is the link to the guide I used for the project . http://www.christmasinkent.com/howto/HowToLEDspots.htm Attached files
  5. Last year I had my controlers in my garage with the extension cords running under my garage door. My neighbor thought he would help me out after a snowstorm. His snow blower chewed up about half of the cords before it jammed. Watch out for helpful neighbors.
  6. here is a link to my DC controler set-up. http://lightorama.mywowbb.com/attachment.php?id=9229
  7. This picture was taken during testing of the power supply. All sixteen MR16s are truned on at 7% for the picture. Attached files .jpg"]
  8. Here is a picture of my CMD16 mounted on a switching power supply that I had kicking around the house. The power supply is 320 watts, and will produce 15 amps on at +12 Volts. The power supply is a AT type supply that had to modified. to work in this configuration. I only have sixteen MR16s, this set-up works great for them. Attached files
  9. Could do, this controller runs the eve outlets every thing is hard wired.
  10. Update here is a picture of the CTB08, installed in a metal box in the attic. Attached files .jpg"]
  11. Thanks for the information I will change my installation.
  12. Not taking any chances I isolated the heat sinks from the metal enclosure.
  13. I am installing a CTB08 into a metal enclosure, and now I am wondering if the heat sink needs to be isolated from the metal box which is also a ground. Does anyone know the answer to this? I would hate to destroy this card. Up to this point I have installed all my other controllers into plastic enclosures so this has not been an issue.
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