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About McAllister

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  1. I'm good the 1st or 8th. I just need to know in the next 2-3 weeks to request off work. Please keep me in the loop!
  2. Vince4xmas - thanks for the pic. I don't trust that very much from the amazon listing. I realized that the company sent me the wrong item anyway - I ordered a 12ch device and got an 8ch device. Plus the labels on their relays are different than what's on mine. I've emailed them to see if they'll exchange, but honestly I'm not expecting much, especially since the thing has been sitting on my work bench for 2.5 mos before I actually realized the mistake. Figuring I'll suck it up---InputPup is only 8ch anyway. K6ccc - I considered hooking up to voltmeter but didn't want to fry a relay - My plan would be to connect on continuity test and then start pushing buttons on the remote - my concern would be if I happened to put voltmeter between NO and NC (rather than one of those and common). Any chance of frying a relay by shorting NO-NC?
  3. I got an InputPup as an impulse buy during the sale and I'm trying to get it figured out. I got a RF controller from Amazon that I'd like to wire up to it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZFNZE9E/ No instructions were included, though the relays are labeled. I guess the company is assuming that someone who knows how these work will be using them, and being a hobbyist and not electrical engineer, I'm not sure I know what connections to make! The pictures on amazon show clear labels for NO COM NC, however the device I got is not labeled. The relays also have labels that make me nervous to hook up (125VAC, 28VDC, 250VAC) to InputPup. Given supply is 12VDC, I doubt that it's converting to high voltage AC for output, but I don't know why those would be labeled that way either. From the following picture, can anyone tell what these are? Here's the labels - What would be the terminals I have labeled A, B, and C? Is it as simple as A=NO B=Com and C=NC? Thanks in advance for any help!
  4. Nice job! I'd appreciate a copy if you're still sharing. hohohoradio@mcallister.cc Thanks so much!
  5. Sporty's Pilot Shop sent out an email advertisement today. "Lowest prices on Yuneec drones." May be worth a shot - plus every order enters you into a drawing for an airplane.... Several winners in the past weren't pilots until they won!
  6. Oh - and the bouncing bars are probably VU meters or EQ meters (though I haven't looked at the videos yet). There's a tool to make those using pixels http://itsmebob.com/SD.html SpEx (spectrum extractor).
  7. Matt, Welcome aboard. I just did my first show this year, so I'm learning too. I started, much like you, with 2x 16 channel LOR controllers, then added on a CMB24D to line my eaves. At last minute (October) my wife decided to tackle a megawreath and we added on a set of LOR Cosmic Color Bulbs, but didn't have time to program them by the time it was built :-(. It seems LOR products are the "gateway drug" and will actually carry most people many years into their display projects. As I was setting up and taking down, I found myself making plans for the next show! For this year, I'm tackling a Pixel Wall, some mini RGB trees to line my walk way, and a spiral mega tree (probably 12 feet). From what I've found - LOR products are good quality and most of the "leg work" is done for you, so they work out-of-the-box and play nicely with one another. The products seem to be slightly more expensive than do-it-yourself products, but again, you're paying for all the tough work to be done for you. It's a steep learning curve, but I've decided to do it myself on a pixel wall and RGB mini trees. I've found that RGB (and even pixels) have a slightly more expensive cost compared to traditional light strands, but offer much more flexibility that may be worth the small to moderate cost delta. [rather than placing links for each store I mention, there is one link at the bottom which lists current presales and has links out to the stores] For my pixel wall, I ordered the Falcon F16v2, currently on presale and got the pixel nodes from Seasonal Entertainment (on presale through 1/31). I'll be using wire tomato cages turned upside down and wrapping dumb RGB nodes around them, making 8 mini RGB trees. Nodes from Seasonal Entertainment and controller is the 27channel (9 RGB banks) from Holiday Coro. For my spiral megatree, I'll be getting another LOR 16 channel controller when they do their presale (last year it was early April - around the 10th). I'll need LED stings for the mega tree and have been watching prices. Everyone talks about CDI as their source for LED strings and I [incorrectly] assumed that was Christmas Designers Inc. In the past I've gotten good LEDs from Christmas Designers. They're currently having a sale, but they haven't had what I need at good prices. In April I got strings of 70 G12s for $8.70-9.87 (depending on color) and strings of 5mm Wide Angle Conicals for anywhere from 18.5-21.4 cents per light (depending on color, spacing, and bulbs/string (50,70,100, 4 inch or 6 inch spacing) equaling 9.25/string to 14.95/string; This past November they had another sale and I got strings of 100 blues for 11.58 each (11.6 cents/light). Their sales seem to be on overstock or some other random (that I haven't figured out yet) system. When I was reading through this thread, I realized that the CDI everyone talks about is acturally Creative Displays Inc. Initially I was not impressed, as you have to call to order and prices for the presale are in a spreadsheet, but they look like good prices so I'm ordering today (last day of the sale). My plan was to keep tabs on Christmas Designers until they had a sale on the LEDs I want for the mega tree, but with the Creative Displays presale prices in line with what I expect, I'm ordering plain LED strings today from [the actual] CDI. :-) Finally, I found what seems to be a great price on Xenon U Strobes at $3.85/bulb from DIY LED Express. Initially I was wanting to keep all LED, but as I researched, I came to the conclusion that many have posted above - Xenon U is the way to go for strobes! Here's a list of current pre-sales etc. Hopefully that helps http://www.highcountrylights.com/christmas-resources/pre-sale-info.html
  8. I am a big Disney fan and new to LOR. This year was my first year of shows (starting w/July 4th, then Halloween, and now Christmas). Does anyone know about the technology behind The Osborne Family Spectacle of Dancing Lights, currently in its last run at Disney's Hollywood Studios? We went 2 years ago and when they announced that this is the final year, we had to squeeze in a December trip to Disney World. It is simply amazing, but I can't imagine how they run the show. The only info I can find on it is a Wikipedia article that states that it's been LOR-driven for the last few years. Does the same LOR software/hardware that I'm running have the power/bandwidth to run the entire Streets of America? While there, looking at the lights, the buildings all appear to be vertical strands of plain ol' LEDs (i.e. not addressable/pixels or RGB). The mega tree seems to be 3 concentric trees of plain green LEDs, then Blue and Red (I think). They will often do a wave from one end of the street to the other end, which I can totally conceive given that they appear to be vertically oriented strands; however, they clearly are able to do effects where they fade from the bottom of a building to the top of the building pretty smoothly. I can't quite figure that effect out. My thought is that they are just in "chunks" - i.e. 1st floor, 2nd floor, 3rd floor, etc. and they ramp up the building so quickly the fade/chase makes it look smooth. My family is pretty into the whole show and we have a good facade on our house to work with, so I'm trying to wrap my mind around how it works so I can start to plan next year's show. My observations are that most buildings are covered w/5mm wide area conical LEDs in a vertical grid fashion. Static displays seem to be wire frames (or objects - like lawn chairs, bicycles, BBQ grills) covered in rope light. The only pixels that I spotted were the canopy over one of the streets (San Francisco I think), which seems to be a matrix of smart RGB pixels, but they didn't look like LOR's Cosmic Color Pixels. Finally, since this is the last year, what are they going to do with all the hardware?!?!?!?!? As a growing show, I'd love to get in on an auction if they're having one! Those angels would be a pretty sweet addition to anyone's show (and have awesome history with it too)! So all in all - does anyone know anything about the technology in use there or have any contacts to get the "inside scoop" on what will happen to the hardware? Please discuss! Thanks!
  9. If you don't mind sharing, I'd like to work on it for next year's show. Many thanks in advance! lightshow@mcallister.cc
  10. This is my first year and maybe it's something silly that I'm missing, but consistently my CCBs are staying on all night and I can't figure out why. The rest of the show shuts down as expected, but for some reason the CCBs always stay on until I unplug the controller to reset it. Here's my setup: G3-MP3 running the show off an SD Card attached to CMB24D then CTBPC16PC. From here I run a 100' Cat6a cable to the other side of my house to a CTBPC16PC then out of that a 50' Cat6 up the roof to my CCB controller. Everything runs as expected - show seems fine and timings seem fine. After my "real" show cuts off at 10:30pm, I have a 2nd show scheduled which is really a 1 minute mostly static display, which loops until Midnight, then turns off. I say mostly static because everything stays on, but the RGB devices on the CMB24D and my CCBs all just cycle through R->G->B->W->R then the sequence loops until midnight. Consistently all the channels are turning off at midnight, with the exception of the CCBs. They are either getting stuck all-on in R or W and I don't know why. The red I can sort of come to terms with - the sequence ends on red - so in my mind the G3 sends the final R, then sends the "all channels off" command and since my CCB controller is 163' away (100+50+10+3 patch cables) maybe it's not hearing the command.... but it hears everything else fine and runs the show fine... but at least the R was the last color. I'm also concerned max length seems to be 4000' and I'm well under that. Then I have issues with why is it stuck on white half the time (and never B or G)? White is the next to last color in the sequence, but then it fades to Red for several centiseconds before ending (so when it re-loops, Red is at the beginning). I'm manually having to either 1) unplug/replug the CCB controller from electricity to reset it or 2) eject/re-insert the SD-card to the G3-MP3 to get the CCBs to turn off and wait for the show to start at dark the next day. If I forget this after midnight each night, then the CCBs stay on all night (and potentially all day depending on how long until I can get there to reset it or if I forget!). Anyone have any ideas why my CCBs are acting weird only at the end of the schedule/show?
  11. That seems to have worked. So I guess this is a bug in the software that has persisted since 2.9.4! Simple solution, but different technique than adding/removing other devices! Thanks for your help! Josh
  12. Was there ever a resolution on how to removed a device without manually removing the individual channels? I'm in 4.2.6 and still getting this error. How do I remove a device and its associated channels without doing so to each channel individually?
  13. Yes - the color fade tool gave me unreliable colors, and also, I haven't figured out how to get the color fade to respond to timings. Ideally I would paste my timings for the on/off/fades, then use the color fade (or some other tool) to "paint on top" of the timings that are on the channel. Perhaps something like a paste to/from foreground - something that rather than pasting the on/off/fade intensities, it would keep those intensities and paint the color on top of the timings. Does something like this exist?
  14. Newbie question: Can anyone suggest an efficient workflow for applying timings and colors to dumb RGB devices? Here's my problem: I'm using the John Storms method for breaking down my songs and getting pretty good timings. I can easily apply those to my regular CTB16PC Channels. What takes me FOREVER is applying those timings/colors to 5 dumb RGB ribbons that I have mounted to my eaves! If I copy/paste the timings then I can make any of the colors were I can paste into the primary colors or combinations of those... but when I want to make anything other than 100%, then I have to go manually edit those intensities, fades, and levels. For instance, orange is 100 R and 80 G... to get that I have to paste the timings into the R channel (easy at 100%), then paste them into the G channel, then manually go in and set all the Green intensities to 80% and fade ups from 0 to 80 and fade downs from 80 to 0...... very time consuming! Plus I found that the colors in the palette don't match real life--- for Halloween, I used the orange and purple from the palette, then when I tested on my house, didn't like them at all, and had to go back and change the levels manually again! I think to myself: There HAS to be a better way that I'm not aware of. I can't find any good tutorials out there on how to program the RGB devices. The LOR site has a good video on the color fade tool, but that's all that I can find. So - all you RGB Geniuses out there - what workflows have you found to quickly apply timings and colors to RGB Devices? I'm essentially only working with 5 pixels and it takes forever! I know there are shows with millions of pixels--- I've heard of NutCracker and SuperStar for those. But what to use for my setup with 5 "pixels" on the eaves of my house???
  15. I'd appreciate a copy if you're still sharing. I'm a big SNC fan and working on sequencing for my show now... I've been holding off on this song because it has so much going on! lightshow@mcallister.cc Thanks so much!
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