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About DavidPeterson

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  1. Fantastic. Changing the mounting locations on the boards didn't seem like a LOR type move but wanted to be sure, in case there was a good reason for it
  2. I have some older boxes, I know some are Gen2, might have some Gen1. If I swap some out for Gen3, do I just need the card itself? I have the plastic enclosures, input/output cords and strain relief that came in the original kits.
  3. Ok, so this is an "older" thread but I can't help myself. I do agree with the stp cord, and wish I had done it myself originally. If you think about it, it makes a lot of sense. A lot of what we do draws very little power per element. It might be one or two flood lights, two candy canes with a total of 50 mini lights. It makes no sense to use an outdoor cord for that kind of draw. I would spend some money on the main feeds to the controllers if you need extension cords there, or of course things like house outline c7/c9 incandescent. Those are your largest power draws.
  4. There is a big difference, though not as bad as a Yugo A 32 bit app runs fine on a 64 bit OS, but there are memory limitations for that app running under a 64 bit OS.
  5. You can have trouble with things looking right mixing white LED and incandescent, if the LEDs are cool (bluish white) and incandescent warm white. If you have them on different things, you can make it work, but I wouldn't, say, do have a roof outline in one and switch to the other for the other half. LEDs can be more problematic in dimming and such. I always make sure to use full wave LEDs.
  6. I would purchase the software, you'd have to decide on what level. The demo version (and the lowest paid I believe) encrypts the sequences. LOR can remove the encryption, but it can cause issues later. The biggest difference between the PC and showtime is that the PC uses a plastic case, Showtime is metal and the Showtime is UL approved. There are some other minor differences, but the important thing is that functionally for a show, they are pretty much identical. Of course once I got this posted, Don said it much better
  7. Still confused on how the floods connect to the controller. If I'm understanding correctly, the power supply would be for the LOR controller, converting my AC power to DC. But how do the floods connect? It sounds like they use power over Ethernet. How do they connect to the quick connects in the LOR board? One schematic on his site shows an iDMX connected to an LOR board, then a Rainbow Brain. That's starting to get a bit more than I was hoping, the iDMX isn't exactly cheap. Would each flood take three channels, so that one 16 channel board would max out at 5 in channel count?
  8. With LED, make sure you get full wave. Not all LEDs are created equal with dimming etc. Also, with white, make sure you get the right kind of white for what you want. Cool white has a bluish cast, warm white is yellowish, like an incandescent. Each side of a controller can get 15 amps with the high power heat sinks but also remember there is a per channel 8 amp max, and you usually want to be 10-15% under that. When I used incandescent c7's for my house, I had to split them up. The house had two colors, but used 4 channels spread across controllers. This year it's LED, and I added a third color, but no issues with power on the controllers.
  9. Thanks. I may very seriously do this. I built my pre-soldered LOR controllers easily, and in computing can replace motherboards without a first thought, but for some reason thought this might be above my level. I think it'll add a lot to my display. Besides, it looks like some of my Walgreens floods have fading colors. Guess I'll be doing another LOR sale
  10. I may do the rainbow floods, but always confused by DMX and how exactly to do lights with holders and assembly.
  11. Actually was looking at the cord at CDI since it has the UV coating, so it'd last longer. I actually have a killowatt, but most everything I have that would go one them is very low power. Each candy cane is about 25 mini lights. Now if LOR were to release the XMAS Floods, I might add them to it.
  12. I should have specified, I have the PC units in the plastic enclosures. Personally, I think he's just an idiot. He lives in central Ohio and was telling us he disconnected the gas line into his house and uses space heaters because of the gas prices. Just remembered, my flood holders are three prong so those would need to be on regular extensions.
  13. Ok, I know this has been discussed before and I've looked at some of the threads but when it comes to electrical, I want to be sure. There is no issue with using lamp cord outside, in below freezing temps and under a foot of snow? I would not put much on them. I'd likely keep my flood lights on larger cords, unless you guys think I could actually do that as well (one flood per channel). Right now, I've got 14 channels of Walmart candy canes, two canes on each channel, 12 flood lights, three bands of LED lights on my porch columns, three colors of C9 LED lights for the house and garage outline and incandescent strings around each window. Right now, I've got 14 16 gauge cords running the canes, which is overkill from a load perspective. I also don't want my GFCI's tripping a lot either. I know I'd get grief from my brother-in-law general contractor, but he said the controllers themselves are dangerous (too much plugged in, not UL approved). I'm more real-world scenario focused. Thanks
  14. Glad to hear it went so well. One thing though in your expansion next year...get more cords Or buy lamp cord by the roll and vampire plugs.
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