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Brad Bilger

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Everything posted by Brad Bilger

  1. Of Course.. LOL... quick update on my problem. It crashed again this morning. So I shortened the routine to one minute, deleted the routine from the Master, Made the slave controller the new master, reloaded the program in it and shortened the Cat 5 cable that connected the two. So we'll see what develops. Anyone got any idea here?
  2. Here's a quick and sorry shot of the first sequence loaded into it. https://youtu.be/cNIEND2KGuc
  3. Figured that would catch someone's interest. I'll shoot a short video this weekend and post it. And yes, it is 300 feet tall. It's in an amusement park.
  4. I have a small mega tree. Ok... it's actually 300' tall. I have 14-250' Strings of C9 bulbs on each side. Enough that I have to use two controllers to split the load up. I created a 1 minute animation and shot it into Controller #1, a LOR1602 3G and have it linked to a second LOR1602 (Older generation). Standalone was set to run with power on. We have an energy management system that powers it up at dark and powers off at Sunrise. For the first week, it ran PERFECTLY. Not a bit of problem. The first animation sequence was a bit... Frantic.. so I created one that was more slow and stately. Runs 2 minutes with several loops in it. Shot it into the controller (After deleting the original routine) and tested it. Again, it ran perfectly.... for 3 days. Then crashed. Checking the controller, I find that both controllers are blinking saying no communications. I shortened the sequence some and reshot the program into the controller again. This last sequence is only 2 minutes long, Well less than the 5000 commands that LOR recommends for a standalone. The power is controlled by a simple relay to a contactor that drops power off (Just as turning off a switch). Controllers are mounted at the top of the tower sitting side by side. (Thank Goodness I got an Elevator). Any ideas on why the controller started dumping the sequence? I've done musical sequences for years that run off a computer, but this is the first that I have tried something that is standalone other than some of the 10 Watt floods I did last year. (no problem with them either)
  5. Hmmmm.. Why do I hear crickets chirping in the silence... Sigh.. anybody got an idea?
  6. Ok, rehashing an old thread... I started this thread 2 years ago.... and still haven't found out what my problem is. I have a mix of Old and 3G controllers. My old ones are like a rock. Sturdy, dependable. (Well, except for one that I need to send in for repair. The first year I was using incandescent and sorta pushed it to the limit. Its still in storage) I have a rather large display. Anywhere from 3 strings per channel to probably 15-20 strings per channel. ALL LED. My 3G controllers handle the smaller loads with no problem at all. But if I put them on a Larger prop, with 15-20 strings per channel, they crap out. Flickers on slow fades. Random firings of lights. According to the manual for the 3G's they are equipped with built in resistance to prevent the "flashback" on dimming. With a short string of lights, they work ok. They can't handle the longer lights. I put in resistive loads (47K resistor) and they still flicker, I've added 4 C9 Incandescent bulb in line WITH the resistors and still they flicker. Anyone out there got any idea on how to correct this problem? Other than swapping out a 3G for an older model? I'm running out of Older models now. In answer to some of the questions asked so far... 1. Resistive loads have been added to every channel 2. Loads consists of either 47 K 1 watt resistors, or 2-4 C9 Incandescent bulbs on each string or in some cases, Both. 3. Sequences have been checked to assure that the ramps are smooth 4. Controllers have been swapped out with older models and the problem follows the controller 5. Turning the plug on the lights around 180 Degrees?? There are 15-20 strings of lights on these trees? Infinite combination to get them all aligned up the same orientation. None of them are marked or polarized. 6. All controllers are commercial grade units, pre-assembled, steel case. 7. All controllers are Wireless using ELL. All ELL's are direct unobstructed Line of sight with each other, distance of only about 75' 8. For example, one ELL controls units 01 and 0D. 01 is an old model. 0D is a 3G 0D flickers while 01 is working fine. Any Ideas??
  7. I haven't tried it like that this year. Last year I had one of my older controllers give up the ghost and I replaced it with the G3. That's when the flickers started up. Last year I did try the snubbers on every channel, and it did relieve SOME of the problem. The flickers were still there, but not as noticeable. You know how it is. No one else notices the problem but it's YOUR baby and every tiny little flash, you see it. Today, if it doesn't rain me out, I'll be installing my arches on 2 G3's and my arches only have 2 strings per segment. I'm curious to see if it's because on my problem location I'm running 10-15 strings per channel.
  8. Well, I sorta threw in the flag for a bit. This was one of the primary controllers in my show. Part of my "melody" line. I replaced it with an older one. The flickers were getting worse. I've got 3 more out there. 2 on arches with only 2 strings per segment. I'll see how they handle it.
  9. One other thing I just thought of. Each channel has between 9-12 strings of LEDs per channel. (It's a big tree)
  10. Hey Jerry. All radios in the park 400 MHz, repeated. This is at a stage location, but no wireless phones or mics In the area ( stage shut down for the season). You piqued my curiosity on something you said. CFL on the same BREAKER??? I hadn't thought of that. Not sure. I have CFL's on the same breaker box, just not sure if on same breaker. Something more to dig into. The nearest CFL's are next door but are off during the day while I'm testing. I gotta admit. It ain't suppose to be this difficult.
  11. Ok. Latest firmware 1.11 Red LEDs on ch 1, 5, 9 and 13. (4 separate trees) Blue LEDs on ch 3, 7, 11 and 15 All LEDs about 4-5 years old. When reds are ramping down, blues flash. Have tried with snubbers, without snubbers. No difference. It's not just this one controller. Another g3 is doing the same thing. I've carried my laptop to the controller and ran the show hard wired. Same problem as running it with the ELL's. So it shouldn't be a bandwidth problem. Sequencer shows no commands for blues at that time. I've gone through and made sure cells are empty in those spots where no blues are on. Channel setting for channel 1-16 says device type light-o-rama controller, regular network. Hardware utility: 01-32LD-G3 ver 1.11 Slow ramp up through HW On Red only causes greens and blues to flicker. HW intensity range. 0 minimum-100 maximum Advanced config all set to Dim Curve01. Use of same age lights on older controller with snubbers results in no errors and no flickers. ELL's speed 57600. Power level 15 dBm 32 mw. Channel 16. HW utility test console. Ramp 1, 5, 9 and 13 to 80% and held. Blues are on and greens are flickering. Have I missed something basic?? I don't think I'm too happy with the g3 controllers. Btw. This show sits in the middle of a larger amusement park. In other words ........ HELP!!!!!
  12. All g3 controllers running 1.11 firmware. Hot some exoerimenting to do.
  13. Just checked before haloween show fired up. 0-100% on all channels. I got some ideas to try Monday.
  14. Ok. I posted this problem last year and never really got a good answer. LOR1602W g3 controller. ID #1 connected via ELL. 130' clear range. Controller has 16 strings of half wave lights. Slow fades in and out I get flicker (bad). The manual says "these controllers have 'ghost loads' which drain off charge to prevent low brightness LED glow when LED's are off. The 'ghost loads' also permit smoother LED fading." I've double checked the dim curve and #1 is set with dim curve 1. All 16 channels are flickering badly. I have one song where all 16 channels are on at 100% and they flicker. BUT if I build a sequence with same lights on at 100%, I get no flicker. If I go to HWU and command 100%, I get no flicker. I've deleted all the commands that are there during the flicker and re-entered them. Still flicker. Controller has latest firmware. Software is latest version of S3, updated in September of this year. Computer is AMD processor running 4 gig ram, XP pro, latest updates as of September. Computer dedicated strictly to the show. I've got 9 more 1602 old style controllers with no problem and 3 more g3's that are mounted, but have no lights run to them yet. Any ideas? What am I missing? To make it even worse, you oughta try typing all that in from an iPhone!! Lol
  15. Ok.. I am NOT seeing it in the visualizer. I said I am seeing the RIBBONS in the visualizer. Not the three errant lights. There is Nothing in the macro section. Like I said... I feel it is a hardware problem because the lights are on with the computer OFF. Three ribbons, side by side. All black and off except for the one on the right which has 3 lights at the very tip on with a bright white light. I plug in power to the controllers for the ribbons and the last three bulbs turn on. I run my entire show. The last three lights don't even flicker. They are on bright white.
  16. Ok.. update. 1. Did a reset. Ribbon waved and color changed as advertised. All but the final three led's. Which stayed on. No change. 2. Unplugged the ribbon from 23 and moved to 22. Flnal 3 led's remained on with the same ribbon. 3. Went into Hardware utility, Renumbered 23 to 26. Final 3 led's remained on. 4. Deleted Controller 23 totally from the system. Final 3 led's remained on. 5. Took existing sequence, Copied commands from 23 and created 26. Pasted all commands to 26. Deleted 23. Final 3 led's remained on. 6. Back to hardware manager. Went to 26. Commanded all lights off. Final 3 leds remained on. 7. Reset Controller 26 to 23. Recommanded all lights off. Final 3 led's remained on. 8. Unloaded LOR Control panel totally. Final 3 led's remained on 9. Shut the computer completly off. Final 3 led's remained on. 10. Pulled the plug to controller 23. Final 3 led's finally go out. My vote is for a faulty ribbon. Anybody got any other idea?
  17. Sorry about the misunderstanding. I mentioned earlier that I just discovered that when you reset, you have to have power off and then plug in while holding button. I didn't know that part. I will try it this afternoon. I got a bit more experimenting to do this afternoon and tonight. I'll let you know what happens. I got a lot of experimenting to do to figure it out. Was hoping that someone had a definite answer. If nothing else, I got some black duct tape to cover the last three LED's. (just kidding.. ) LOL
  18. I've thought about that also. The way I've got mine now is Computer - ELL----ELL-LOR1602w-Cat5-CCR-CCR-CCR. This was a temp set up until I get the bugs worked out of it. The final plan is Computer-Cat5-LOR1062w-Cat5-CCR-CCR-CCR-LOR1602w-ELL and then to the rest of the show Wirelessly. I will be hardwiring the CCR's to the controller first. If that doesn't work, I've already got another network adapter in storage. What was confusing me was that even with the computer OFF, the last 3 LED's were still on. I had to unplug the controller power to keep someone from thinking that there is a three eyed monster in the tree in the middle of the night. Tomorrow, I'll hard wire everything. If no luck, then I'll move everything on 23 to another channel and try that. then we try the additional network.. I was telling someone the other day. When I first started with LOR, the software instruction manual was a pamphlet. Now it's a 590 page pdf file.
  19. No controller as #24, and I see all three ribbons in the Visualizer. No errant pixels in the visualizer. At least, none that show up. Just the last three leds bright white..
  20. Ok, I got a similar problem here. First year with the CCR's. I got three of them. Just installed them for a Halloween show that will Segway into my Christmas show. Powered them up and they are beautiful. Clear.. Bright... with one pixel right at the end bright white. No matter what song, still white. No matter if I have the sequencer open, still bright white. Hardware manager, go to that controller and say lights off. Still bright white. Shut the computer OFF. Still bright white. Just the end 3 LED's on my ribbon. All three controllers are configured identical. The lights are on with the computer off. I've hit the reset buttons on all three, but haven't observed anything at all happen. I did just see above that the reset buttons have to be hit WHILE applying power. I haven't been able to get deep into the trouble shooting yet but I will tomorrow. My controllers are about 15 feet up in a tree. The controllers are numbered 21, 22 and 23 (for my benefit) and my problem child is #23. Any ideas?
  21. Well, one of the 3G sales features says that it has built in resistors to simulate a load eliminating the need for additional loads. I went back and installed my resistors in addition. That smoothed it out some, but not all the way. Each channel is running between 8-10 strings of red led's and can't reduce the lines. They go up in a tree about 40 feet. It's only the reds that are affected. Which is channels 1, 5, 9 and 13. All the other colors on this controller are running like they should. Not a single incandescent on that controller. I've run this show with led's for years with out a problem using the 1602's. this is my first experience with the 3G.
  22. Ok.. bit of history first. I've got a show with 10 controllers (All 1602 boards) I picked up a new 1602Wg3 recently that I was going to use as a spare. When I got it, of course one of my OLD 1602's developed a triac problem. Unpacked the 1602Wg3 and swapped out. I see by the paperwork that this unit has built in snubbers. (Joy, everything I got is LED's, half wave). Installed it, set it up and now I find a problem with ramps. All my red LED's (Channels 1, 5, 9 and 13) no longer want to ramp down. They stick on and all flash off at the same time. This problem occured right out of the box. So I went back and reinstalled MY snubbers on the lines and they smoothed out just a bit, but still hanging and not ramping properly. Both sides of the controller are on the same circuit/same phase. All lights are LED's, half wave. All LED's are older, some are about 5 years old now. Controller gets it's signal from ELL, nothing hard wired. Additional snubbers are 47k, half watt resistors. Any suggestions? Any ideas?
  23. hey, it's more than a hobby.. it's a BROTHERHOOD..... (and sisterhood too)
  24. Dan, I told my boss about how responsive you and your company were. I"m glad to see that nothing has changed. Thank you Sir, and I will take care of it and let you know how it goes when I get back..
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