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Brad Bilger

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About Brad Bilger

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  • Birthday 10/09/1956

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Bedford, Texas
  • Occupation
    Battalion Chief / Bedford Fire Department-Retired

More About Me

  • How I learned about Light-O-Rama -
    Years ago seeing the Beer Commercial and trying to figure out how it was made.
  • Favorite Decorating Holiday?

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  1. Of Course.. LOL... quick update on my problem. It crashed again this morning. So I shortened the routine to one minute, deleted the routine from the Master, Made the slave controller the new master, reloaded the program in it and shortened the Cat 5 cable that connected the two. So we'll see what develops. Anyone got any idea here?
  2. Here's a quick and sorry shot of the first sequence loaded into it. https://youtu.be/cNIEND2KGuc
  3. Figured that would catch someone's interest. I'll shoot a short video this weekend and post it. And yes, it is 300 feet tall. It's in an amusement park.
  4. I have a small mega tree. Ok... it's actually 300' tall. I have 14-250' Strings of C9 bulbs on each side. Enough that I have to use two controllers to split the load up. I created a 1 minute animation and shot it into Controller #1, a LOR1602 3G and have it linked to a second LOR1602 (Older generation). Standalone was set to run with power on. We have an energy management system that powers it up at dark and powers off at Sunrise. For the first week, it ran PERFECTLY. Not a bit of problem. The first animation sequence was a bit... Frantic.. so I created one that was more slow and stately. Runs 2 minutes with several loops in it. Shot it into the controller (After deleting the original routine) and tested it. Again, it ran perfectly.... for 3 days. Then crashed. Checking the controller, I find that both controllers are blinking saying no communications. I shortened the sequence some and reshot the program into the controller again. This last sequence is only 2 minutes long, Well less than the 5000 commands that LOR recommends for a standalone. The power is controlled by a simple relay to a contactor that drops power off (Just as turning off a switch). Controllers are mounted at the top of the tower sitting side by side. (Thank Goodness I got an Elevator). Any ideas on why the controller started dumping the sequence? I've done musical sequences for years that run off a computer, but this is the first that I have tried something that is standalone other than some of the 10 Watt floods I did last year. (no problem with them either)
  5. Hmmmm.. Why do I hear crickets chirping in the silence... Sigh.. anybody got an idea?
  6. Ok, rehashing an old thread... I started this thread 2 years ago.... and still haven't found out what my problem is. I have a mix of Old and 3G controllers. My old ones are like a rock. Sturdy, dependable. (Well, except for one that I need to send in for repair. The first year I was using incandescent and sorta pushed it to the limit. Its still in storage) I have a rather large display. Anywhere from 3 strings per channel to probably 15-20 strings per channel. ALL LED. My 3G controllers handle the smaller loads with no problem at all. But if I put them on a Larger prop, with 15-20 strings per channel, they crap out. Flickers on slow fades. Random firings of lights. According to the manual for the 3G's they are equipped with built in resistance to prevent the "flashback" on dimming. With a short string of lights, they work ok. They can't handle the longer lights. I put in resistive loads (47K resistor) and they still flicker, I've added 4 C9 Incandescent bulb in line WITH the resistors and still they flicker. Anyone out there got any idea on how to correct this problem? Other than swapping out a 3G for an older model? I'm running out of Older models now. In answer to some of the questions asked so far... 1. Resistive loads have been added to every channel 2. Loads consists of either 47 K 1 watt resistors, or 2-4 C9 Incandescent bulbs on each string or in some cases, Both. 3. Sequences have been checked to assure that the ramps are smooth 4. Controllers have been swapped out with older models and the problem follows the controller 5. Turning the plug on the lights around 180 Degrees?? There are 15-20 strings of lights on these trees? Infinite combination to get them all aligned up the same orientation. None of them are marked or polarized. 6. All controllers are commercial grade units, pre-assembled, steel case. 7. All controllers are Wireless using ELL. All ELL's are direct unobstructed Line of sight with each other, distance of only about 75' 8. For example, one ELL controls units 01 and 0D. 01 is an old model. 0D is a 3G 0D flickers while 01 is working fine. Any Ideas??
  7. I haven't tried it like that this year. Last year I had one of my older controllers give up the ghost and I replaced it with the G3. That's when the flickers started up. Last year I did try the snubbers on every channel, and it did relieve SOME of the problem. The flickers were still there, but not as noticeable. You know how it is. No one else notices the problem but it's YOUR baby and every tiny little flash, you see it. Today, if it doesn't rain me out, I'll be installing my arches on 2 G3's and my arches only have 2 strings per segment. I'm curious to see if it's because on my problem location I'm running 10-15 strings per channel.
  8. Well, I sorta threw in the flag for a bit. This was one of the primary controllers in my show. Part of my "melody" line. I replaced it with an older one. The flickers were getting worse. I've got 3 more out there. 2 on arches with only 2 strings per segment. I'll see how they handle it.
  9. One other thing I just thought of. Each channel has between 9-12 strings of LEDs per channel. (It's a big tree)
  10. Hey Jerry. All radios in the park 400 MHz, repeated. This is at a stage location, but no wireless phones or mics In the area ( stage shut down for the season). You piqued my curiosity on something you said. CFL on the same BREAKER??? I hadn't thought of that. Not sure. I have CFL's on the same breaker box, just not sure if on same breaker. Something more to dig into. The nearest CFL's are next door but are off during the day while I'm testing. I gotta admit. It ain't suppose to be this difficult.
  11. Ok. Latest firmware 1.11 Red LEDs on ch 1, 5, 9 and 13. (4 separate trees) Blue LEDs on ch 3, 7, 11 and 15 All LEDs about 4-5 years old. When reds are ramping down, blues flash. Have tried with snubbers, without snubbers. No difference. It's not just this one controller. Another g3 is doing the same thing. I've carried my laptop to the controller and ran the show hard wired. Same problem as running it with the ELL's. So it shouldn't be a bandwidth problem. Sequencer shows no commands for blues at that time. I've gone through and made sure cells are empty in those spots where no blues are on. Channel setting for channel 1-16 says device type light-o-rama controller, regular network. Hardware utility: 01-32LD-G3 ver 1.11 Slow ramp up through HW On Red only causes greens and blues to flicker. HW intensity range. 0 minimum-100 maximum Advanced config all set to Dim Curve01. Use of same age lights on older controller with snubbers results in no errors and no flickers. ELL's speed 57600. Power level 15 dBm 32 mw. Channel 16. HW utility test console. Ramp 1, 5, 9 and 13 to 80% and held. Blues are on and greens are flickering. Have I missed something basic?? I don't think I'm too happy with the g3 controllers. Btw. This show sits in the middle of a larger amusement park. In other words ........ HELP!!!!!
  12. All g3 controllers running 1.11 firmware. Hot some exoerimenting to do.
  13. Just checked before haloween show fired up. 0-100% on all channels. I got some ideas to try Monday.
  14. Ok. I posted this problem last year and never really got a good answer. LOR1602W g3 controller. ID #1 connected via ELL. 130' clear range. Controller has 16 strings of half wave lights. Slow fades in and out I get flicker (bad). The manual says "these controllers have 'ghost loads' which drain off charge to prevent low brightness LED glow when LED's are off. The 'ghost loads' also permit smoother LED fading." I've double checked the dim curve and #1 is set with dim curve 1. All 16 channels are flickering badly. I have one song where all 16 channels are on at 100% and they flicker. BUT if I build a sequence with same lights on at 100%, I get no flicker. If I go to HWU and command 100%, I get no flicker. I've deleted all the commands that are there during the flicker and re-entered them. Still flicker. Controller has latest firmware. Software is latest version of S3, updated in September of this year. Computer is AMD processor running 4 gig ram, XP pro, latest updates as of September. Computer dedicated strictly to the show. I've got 9 more 1602 old style controllers with no problem and 3 more g3's that are mounted, but have no lights run to them yet. Any ideas? What am I missing? To make it even worse, you oughta try typing all that in from an iPhone!! Lol
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