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jfuller8400 last won the day on October 14 2018

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About jfuller8400

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    Bloomington, MN
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  1. I would start by doing a factor reset on the controller. You might also change the frequency that the ELL's are using in case you're getting interference from another source.
  2. Do you think the lights in the trees in the background were pixels or strings of multiple colors. If they were strings, there had to be multiple channels per color given some of the effects. If pixels, wow! that's a lot of forking pixels!
  3. Hi All, I just came across this video that does a really good job comparing all of the various types of smart RGB strips:
  4. I'd cycle the power on the controllers that aren't working and then if they still don't work, do a factory reset. I've had a problem like this with a CMB24D once that had a green light indicating it was receiving data but none of the channels were working. Cycling the power fixed it.
  5. I'd open a help desk ticket with LOR. If it can be done, they would know how to do it.
  6. I don't specifically make mine for kids, so I'm just going to mark my entire channel as not for kids.
  7. Here's the best place I've found for them: https://www.dfcco.com/telco/afl-cg-1500-enclosure/ It says you need to call for pricing, but on other parts of their site I've seen them listed for $13.50.
  8. Connect each controller separately to the HU and run a refresh to see what ID it's set at. Assuming you have controllers where the id can be set by the HU, you should be able to then change the ID of your second controller. Run a refresh again to insure the id change was successful. If so, then you should be able to connect your controllers back together and run your show. If it wasn't successful, then I would run a factory reset on the controller and try to change it's id again. Again, it would help if you posted the exact type/model of controllers you have.
  9. Ok, it sounds like both controllers are set to the same ID. I would make sure that each controller has a unique unit id that matches the configuration in your sequences. Depending on the type of controller you have, the unit id is either set on the controller itself or can be set via the HU.
  10. It would be helpful to know your exact setup (type and number of controllers, etc.). Are you running your show from a computer or from a mini-director? When you talk about the hardware test, are you using the Hardware Utility to do this? Assuming you're using the Hardware Utility for your tests, it sounds like when you turn on channel 1 in the HU, the lights plugged into channel 1 come on, correct? If that's true, then I would double check your channel configurations in the Sequence Editor. Bring up your sequence in SE and click on a channel. A Channel Settings box will open that shows the type of controller, network, unit (i.e. controller address) and Circuit (i.e. Channel number). You'll want to verify that all of the settings are correct. I would also use the LOR Verifier tool to verify that there aren't any errors in your sequences (i.e. channels defined more than once, etc.).
  11. How many watts do you think each of those floods are?😁
  12. I had something similar to this happen to me with a CMB24D a couple of years ago. Smoked two black USB adapters before I finally found it. Turned out one of the mounting screws I used for the PS extended a bit to far into it and touched something it shouldn't have. I have no idea how or what it contacted or why it caused the weird voltage on the control lines (or even how it managed to create a pathway) but once I removed and replaced the screws, everything went back to normal.
  13. Also, I've read that some of the coatings used on the wires contain some type of peanut extract. Whatever engineer came up with that one didn't think through it all the way!
  14. What is that row of circle props you've got just in front of your house? I've never seen anything like those before. Also what's just off to their left? Is that some type of large matrix panel or something?
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