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cgreenfield

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Everything posted by cgreenfield

  1. In practice it usually works to split the signal as you say, I do the same with my lights. However it can cause problems with signal reflection corrupting the first packet on the line in some cases. It really just depends on the cable lengths before and after the split, as well cable quality. That being said it doesn't hurt to try it, the worst that will happen is the lights just wont get the right data and might act sporadic. If you do try it and you have problems with the signal, there are devices that will split and repeat the signal, effectively isolating the outputs from each other and the input. The commercial ones can be a bit costly though, and are not usually worth the money to buy in our case. You can make one though if you know a little bit about electronics. It just takes a few Opto Isolators, DC to DC converters and RS485 Differential Transceivers. Also here is a good technical DMX512 Primer, with some other Tips and Tricks as well. http://www.dfd.com/primer.html
  2. While putting up my CCBs this year, i noticed that the O-rings on my CCBs have gone missing. I was wondering if there was a source for replacement O-rings on the Original Cosmic Color Bulb Controllers? Thanks! -Chris-
  3. Report Number: CGG001 Module: Sequencer Software Version: v5.0.6 OS Version: Windows 7 (Professional - 64 Bit) Description: Crash when pressing start in beat wizard for first time in a sequence file without pressing "update" button or selecting "entire sequence" radio button. Steps to Reproduce: 1. Open up Sequencer 2. Create New Musical Sequence 3. Open Beat Wizard (Do Not Change any of the Time Range Settings) 4. Press "Start" under preview section Trace File: CGG001 - LORSequencer-trace 1.txt (Note: Despite File Name of sequence in trace file, this sequence was created in S5) -Chris-
  4. I noticed that the status bar that showed you Total Time, Selected Time, and Selected Duration, is no longer a feature in the S5 Sequencer. This was very useful when trying to space out effects, or make them the same length without counting individual boxes. Is there a plan to re implement this, or an equivalent feature? Thanks, - Chris -
  5. I wouldn't be so sure. He posted a new video addressing the skepticism.
  6. This year I moved my show computer to the garage so it was easier to access for setup and troubleshooting. The front of my house is stucco and acts like a giant faraday cage so I have to position the FM transmitter either outside or in front of a window. Either of these solutions requires a 50 foot audio run at minimum. I am currently using a 50 foot 3.5 mm audio cable and while it does work, it is not ideal. It barely reaches the transmitter and is very susceptible to interference. I would also like to add outdoor speakers and would need to split the audio signal which will just cause more problems. I have looked into converting it to a balanced signal and have a decent understanding of the concept, but need some assistance / suggestions. - I am not exactly sure what to look for in the components for creating a balanced signal and was wondering if anyone could give me some pointers on what transformers and cables to use. - Also, I currently have the Whole House FM Transmitter 2.0 and have looked into upgrading to the FS CZH-05B and Wanted to hear what other people thought and any other recommendations/suggestions for the transmitter. - And for the outdoor speakers i plan on most likely using a Pyle Stereo Power Amplifier but also would like recommendations for outdoor speakers that won't break the bank. Thanks! -Chris-
  7. Not sure about the stakes or clips, but if you are placing them in a line then it might be easier to mount them all to a piece of EMT conduit or PVC pipe. I have used this method for the CCBs on my roof and the C7 light strings in the yard for the past 2 seasons. They are easy to store and you don't have to deal with the clips or stakes becoming brittle and breaking in the cold. -Chris-
  8. I had the same thing happen this year. I didn't have the time to try and figure out the reason it behaved like it did so I just replaced the triac and that fixed it (Well when i replaced the correct one it did ). If anyone knows why let us know. -Chris-
  9. Website Looks Great! Did you write the html & css code yourself or did you use a website builder? If you did use a website builder, which one did you use? Either way, looks Great!
  10. It just occured to me that i have some of the original Cosmic Color Floods that i use on Halloween to simulate lightning that i can use to test the color. That looks Awesome. do you have a daytime pick for color comparison? also are those the LOR 10 watt floods or some sort of DMX floods?
  11. Thank You. That's Exactly the info I was looking for. Maybe I don't have to worry about the color as much as i thought. Though I now realize that mounting them is gonna be a pain if i want more than just the lower third of the house to be color washed I was gonna ask the same thing. Also how many Strobes do you have oilmoney? That's what i am worried about, but not so much as to if it will affect it but instead how much will it affect the color. For what its worth the color of the house is probably going to be close to the blue color of the twitter logo.
  12. I was planning to color wash my beige colored house with RGB flood lights, however I was recently informed that the house was to be painted blue in the somewhat near future. I am now concerned about how much this would affect the end color cast on the house. Has anyone ever had any experience with RGB floods on a background other than off white or similar? I don't want to invest in these and then realize that they don't work well on a blue house. Thanks, -Chris-
  13. The only way I know of to fix this is to convert the animation sequences to musical sequences and use a blank audio file generated from audacity.
  14. Just Checked with a Kilowatt meter. It pulls 0.03 amps with nothing plugged in. -Chris
  15. It is under Advanced Configuration for a gen 3 controller
  16. There is an option in the hardware utility while configuring a controller to force an individual channel to be either on or off and nowhere in between.
  17. If you remember the email you originally used to buy the software you can go to http://lightorama.com/licenseCheck.html and get you licence status emailed to you. Or if you still have the software on another computer you can go into the sequence editor and from the Help dropdown menu click on "Upgrade Light-O-Rama" and it should show you your key. -Chris-
  18. cgreenfield

    Too young?

    I am 15 as well. I started out at age 12 when I asked my parents for a 16 channel controller and I have been doing it ever since. -Chris-
  19. Jim, what mixing console and speakers do you use? -Chris-
  20. I was actually referring to the 2 vertical ribbons that were on either side of the front door.
  21. Just a thought, concrete anchors that are close to the same color as the bricks? Also didn't you mount CCRs to the front of your house? -Chris
  22. In between bulbs they probably can but is just ensures that the signal doesn't degrade. These repeaters also work in between the controller and the first bulb where the signal isn't as strong to begin with.
  23. Having viewed several posts with questions about how to extend the distance between bulbs of CCBs, I thought I would share our method to do so. We are using CCBs to outline our house for Christmas with several locations where extensions of more than 5 feet are required. Some locations require extensions of approximately 15 to 20 feet. We didn’t want to waste bulbs as Null pixels so we came up with an in-line signal repeater for the data and clock wires. The repeaters are used in conjunction with 16 AWG 4-conductor speaker wire such that voltage drop is reduced and are used where extension requirements are about five feet or more. -Chris-
  24. Agreed with the CCPs. Not just for price, but they diffuse great inside of White Pex Pipe.
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