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About woodinvillejohn

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  1. I just looked at this again. My mistake i have Ver. 4.3.24 of the sequencer not Ver. 5. I thought I had upgraded last year, but guess i did not. I realized the mistake as soon as I tried to follow the steps yu guys laid out for me. So let me rephrase the question. In S4 is it possible to change the color order of pixels on the Pixcon16? Since I burn the show to the card using the G3 director unit is it possible to somehow change the RGB order in the burning process? To the best of my knowledge all I did was re-sequence several songs and add new ones. The RGB sequences were made in Superstar in visualization mode, and then imported into the Sequencer(S4) before I used the hardware director to burn them to an SD card which I insert in the G3 Director unit. Once again the Pixcon is set up in the yard and i did not touch it when I did the new show SD card. I must have clicked a box somewhere in the software is my best guess. John
  2. I'm hoping some of you smart users can figure this out. I was not able to resolve it using the help desk. Can't say I blame them as i am clueless how this happened and agree it shouldn't have. First I run my show off the G3 director unit. Most of my controllers are on the regular network. My 4 RGB smart pixel arches (Ray Wu 100 pixel ribbons) run off Aux. A. My show ran fine through Christmas. I decided to expand my show for next year and burned several additional songs onto a new SD card to power the Pixcon16 controller that I use for my Arches. Everything runs fine off the old SD card with my old show. When i use the new SD card the colors have shifted. I believe the new card has info for RGB whereas my old card was for GRB strips. I did not touch my Pixcon16 at any point during this. So how did burning new sequences cause the color shift? I really don't want to change the Pixcon 16 as my halloween show would be off. I use Superstar and import the sequences into the sequencer. Brian says nothing in Superstar would do this. Therefor it has to come from the S5 sequencer or from the hardware utility which I use to burn everything to the SD card. I'm really stumped and think I probably clicked on something somewhere that did this. I just can't figure out what i did. John
  3. The boards are filled with recommendations for Froggy's Fog juice. Some of the mixtures out there claim they are denser and lay lower to the ground. I think Froggy's has 3 or 4 types. I haven't really compared the different ones so can't offer too much personal experience. I have always tried to stick with the denser types and been happy. If you think the LOR and xmas light forums have lots of info, you'll be amazed at how many halloween forums are out there. I think there is a link to one at www.frightprops.com. An internet search should lead you to lots more. I find some good info but you have to wade through lots of gory stuff. My show is designed for about 3 year olds on up, so I try to keep the gory stuff out of it. I try to make them a bit nervous without scaring them to death. The haunted house forums have some really cool stuff, lots of ideas and DIY stuff, but lots of gore as well. If you google generic terms like "gigantic spider web" it will normally lead you to several good sources. I have found that if I have an idea someone has already thought of it and put it online. That lets me pick and choose the best ideas and modify or combine them. I'm toying with the idea of animating some skeletons, but so far everything I find seems pricey and lots of work. Happy haunting.
  4. Dave76, An internet search will overwhelm you with info on fog chillers. Essentially they cool the fog so it lies low to the ground. I made a couple last year after the show got partially obscured by dense fog output. The fog machines are not waterproof. I elevate mine on a piece of wood so it sits above any water. In the past I have placed another piece of wood over them to form a roof, but only during heavy rains. I don't worry about light rain, as the case will shed some water. I don't leave them outside for long periods of time. I try to bring them in each night. I'm not sure a tote would work as the heating element in the machines can get very hot and they need airflow.
  5. The video is great. It really answers a lot of questions. As far as fog machines go, the only issue I have had is one that whistled whenever it blew fog. It was so loud i had to return it, as it covered up the music. I have tried several. They all seem to work. The problem with all of them seems to be that no matter how well you clean them they all quit working after 1 or 2 seasons. Now I just find one that can put out the volume i need and figure on replacing it every other year. There is some delay between triggering the fog and when it comes out in the display so you need to plan ahead. I run the fog machines through a fog chiller so it can take a few seconds for the fog to build up pressure and blow out the other end. It also will keep blowing for a few seconds (4-5) after I turn the fog machine off. I use a dryer hose painted black to direct the fog where I want it. The fog machines also need time to reheat after a burst so you can't trigger them non stop. I find shorter bursts with 1000w fog machines give me more options that a 400W unit. Using the fog chiller helps with a ground fog effect and keeps my other lights visible above it. I found out early on that you can have too much fog. Just remember that when using a fog machine the slightest breeze can totally wipe out any effects you were hoping for.
  6. T that looks identical to mine and the price is great! I put it in a waterproof box using a piece of wood to screw into
  7. T that looks identical to mine and the price is great!
  8. Dave, I just read Saxon's post again. For some reason it was missing when I responded the first time. That verifies it is Common and N/O for attaching the wires.
  9. Hi Dave, I did have great success in making this work. It is not hard but when I had not done it before i found it tough to find good information that made sense to a non tech guy like me. First. The cheapest source for the relay is Automationdirect.com. They sell a 120v relay Part#QM2N!-A 120 for $4.75. You will also need the mounting base part # SQMO8D which costs 3.25. The parts are cheap enough that I bought 3 sets and made 2 different controllers and have a spare set. That way the shipping is more reasonable. If you want to run your relay off a LOR controller you want to make sure it is a 120v A/C relay. They sell 12v relays as well so don't get confused. The relay snaps into the mounting block which has the connections for the wires. I screwed the mounting block into a plastic box I picked up at Home Depot. I think it was about 6" square and waterproof. I added waterproof connectors to the box and ran my wires through them to keep things water tight. see photo below. The wiring puzzled me for a while. I was unable to copy the picture here, but you can view a wiring diagram at Frightprops.com. From their home page do a search for A/C relay. They sell the same relay and base as above for 19.99 for the set. It is sku. # 0672-0088-RO. Below the description are 2 photos. The second photo shows a wiring diagram. Frightprops has great customer service. Even with the wiring diagram I was not sure about the hookup. N/O means normally open and N/C means normally closed. For a fog maching the switch is normally open until it is triggered closed. I wanted to send a picture of my completed box but it is buried somewhere in all my tubs of Halloween stuff and I can't find it without pulling out 20 boxes. My memory is pretty fuzzy about the actual hookup of the fog machine wires. I believe it was 1 wire to common and one to N/O. You can either cut the wire off the fog machine controller and attach it to the controller or use a new plug assembly which is what I did. I found you can buy 18" pigtails with a plug very inexpensively from www.monoprice.com. Just make sure your plug matches the one on your fog machine trigger. As a side note they also sell extension cords very cheap if you can catch them on a sale. I hope this helps you out. John
  10. Thanks to all of you. As i was lying in bed last night it dawned on me that the RGB order must be incorrect. I was thinking i would have to change the wiring at each port. I'll see what i can figure out for the Pixcon 16 settings. I don't find this controller to be very easy to set up, but that might just be me. Thanks again.
  11. Hello, First year adding pixels and what a learning curve. Trying to get everything going has challenged me. I finally got it all going and have an issue with my new 4 pixel arches run off a pixcon16 controller. When the arches light up there is a big color change from what is programmed. My red is showing up as Blue and Yellow shows up as green, purple shows up as a green/blue. This happens in all 4 arches. 2 arches are within 3 feet of controller. The other 2 are within 12 feet. The color is constant in all of them. My whites are not too bad, maybe a little blue, but acceptable. I'm not sure where to go with this. Is this a pixel issue (Ray Wu 100 pixel strips), or a controller set up issue (pixcon16), or could I have done something when I set up the visualizer or superstar sequences that affects color? When i view the sequences in superstar and the sequence editor the colors all appear correctly. Has anyone else experienced this? Thanks for your help.
  12. I run the show off a SD card using the G3 controller. The HS485 adapter looks like it only runs off a pc. Am I missing something?
  13. I'm going to ask one more question about this. To set up the second network would I have to go back into the superstar channel configuration , or visualizer channel configuration and then re-import the sequences into sequence editor?
  14. I just added 4 100 pixel ribbons and am having problems getting my show to run on enhanced LOR on my G3 director. I finally got everything else running by setting it up to run on a regular network. I suspect my issue may be a couple of older controller units that can't handle the enhanced network. My question is this. Since the G3 controller can have 2 networks. Can I keep all of my other controllers on the 1st non ELOR network and run it at slow speed like I have done over the years. Then can I take my new Pixcon 16 controller and put it on an auxillary enhanced LOR network at 500kbps by itself? Assuming I can do this, what do i need to do to set this up? As a side note, I still have the Pixcon16 connected with the other controllers tonight and my show is crashing once in a while while running as a regular network. I figured the Pixcon16 just would not work. Is this typical or might I have other issues somewhere? Thanks in advance
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