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dkulp

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About dkulp

  • Rank
    New Forum User
  • Birthday 06/05/1973

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Framingham, MA
  • Occupation
    Software

More About Me

  • How I learned about Light-O-Rama -
    google
  • Favorite Decorating Holiday?
    Christmas

LOR Software

  • LOR Software Version
    Other
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    N/A

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  1. Interleave off should be removed in this case. It's impossible to have as 1:4 scan panels have to have some sort of interleave. This LOOKS like a 16 interleave of some sort as the 32 interleave it putting things in groups of 16 pixels. Try the two different 16 pixel interleaves. On a positive note: you definitely showed it's the ABCD style addressing. That's a good start. This is why 1:4 scan "outdoor" panels are such a pain and we generally recommend the 1:8 scan panels. The hub75 interface has two sets of rgb data lines. For 1:8 scan 16 row panels, it can fully output 2 rows per scan using the two lines. For 1:4 scan, it has to output 4 rows of information on 2 lines. Thus the interleave. However, each manufacture outputs the row data in different order depending on however the person who laid out the PCB panel decided to route the signals. Some panels require one entire row and then the entire second row (32 interleave). Others do 16 pixels on row 1, then 16 on row 2, then back to 16 on row 1 then 2 (16 interleave). Some do 8 or 4. And some, when doing 4/8/16 will do the second row backwords (the zig zags). The main issue is that there is no indication on the boards themselves what it should be configured as. It's really trial and error. You have to try each until you find what works. And if none works, then some new PCB designer decided to do something completely new that I haven't seen yet.
  2. If you send one or two to me, I can get them working. But did you try the "1/4 Scan ABCD" setting? I'd like to see a video with it reset to that setting.
  3. These are 1/4 scan panels. None of the RPi hats will work with them. You would need a colorlight card to get it to work with a Pi. It looks like these are "1/4 scan ABCD" with what appears to be a 32 pixel interleave. I would give that a try first.
  4. The normal beaglebone's do, but the PocketBeagle doesn't.
  5. Pocketbeagle doesn't have any type of networking built in. It does require SOME sort of networking, either a USB->Ethernet or USB Wifi.
  6. Yep. For a small sign like that, a PocketScroller is also an option: https://www.tindie.com/products/dkulp/pocketscroller-led-panel-cape-for-pocketbeagle/?pt=ac_prod_search For "newbies" to the world of P# panels, I would suggest a BeagleBone based thing (BBB+Octo or PocketBeagle+PocketScroller) and get STANDARD indoor style 1/8 scan P10's or 1/16 scan P5's. Learn how to get FPP running (bridge mode, e1.31, Panels setups, etc...) with that. If you outgrow that, then consider a Pi3B+ with colorlight. You may be tempted to get "outdoor" panels. They will work with the Beagles (not with the Pi+MatrixHat). However, the outdoor panels are a bit harder to configure with a bit of trial and error (no standards). They are also VERY bright which is likely not what you need/want for a nighttime display. For the most part, the standard indoor panels are easier to get working for someone not familiar with them. Anyway, get the "hat/cape" kind working first as a learning exercise. Then consider the ColorLight. Everything you do for the cape/hat HAS to also be done for the colorlight setup. The colorlight then adds an addition set of networking things, another panel setup program, etc... It really is a full superset of what you need to know for the direct attached cases.
  7. This is entirely dependent on the number of panels per output on the BeagleBone. With less than about 6 or 7 P10 panels per output, the Beaglebone will drive them faster than the colorlight. We actually have to lower the refresh on the outputs because it starts driving them too fast and we get some ghosting on some of the slower panels. The ColorLights/Linsn does have the advantage of the 12 or 16 outputs so the panel chains can be kept shorter. However, the colorlight/linsn stuff is more complex as you have to setup stuff in two places (FPP and the card control panel thing) and adds extra latency of a couple ms (at least) due to the extra hops for the data, particularly for bridge mode.
  8. Both FPP on the Pi and on the BBB have options to set a brightness level of the P# panels. For the P# panels, there is a big advantage of doing it via the FPP setting instead of in xLights or LOR. When you do it in the sequencer, you reduce the number of shades of color that can shown. For example, at 50% brightness, you get 0 to 128 for each channel instead of 0-256. When doing it via the FPP setting, for the P# panels (this doesn't apply to the ws2811 outputs), FPP can control the width of each "on" pulse so it dims by shortening the On pulse for each "bit". Thus, you can retain the 256 shades for each color. Thus, images and such can look a bit better.
  9. Definitely ask in the xLights forum... but to get you started, create a new sequence with the appropriate media/mp3 file and whatever models you plan to use, then go to the Import menu and select Import Effects. Select the LMS or SUP file. Map the channels/models to where you want the effects to go.
  10. Right click on the list of models... The popup menu has an "Add Group" option.
  11. I'd LOVE a copy of this (or more specifically, by son would). dan@kulp.com Thanks!
  12. Yes. xLights now imports text effects (more or less). The fonts are a bit different and xLights doesn't support each letter being a different color (yet), but the text effects are there.
  13. I'd love to see some of these as well. Was thinking of doing Hippopotamus this year, but haven't had time. dan@kulp.com
  14. I'd love to see the drummer boy one as well. dan@kulp.com Thanks! Dan
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