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Everything posted by nutz4lights

  1. Hey All, My attic clean-out continues and I came across my original 20' tall megatree parts that I no longer use. I switched these up when I switched the tree to pixels a few years back and the thought was "keep these so I can setup a second megatree at some point". There is no way that is going to happen, so I'd like to get these sold to someone that is interested in getting a megatree setup. Please see the pictures. I bought this system that allowed you to hook your strings onto the hook head and then crank them up to the top. As I said above, my new system uses pixels mounted to a rigid pole, so I no longer need to "crank up" the lights to the top. http://www.christmaslightshow.com/Mega-Christmas-Tree-Pulley-Head.html http://www.christmaslightshow.com/mega-tree-hook-head-outdoor-Christmas-decorations.html http://www.christmaslightshow.com/musical-christmas-lights.html There isn't a link for the 5-way base adapter as he has changed the way he offers that part. The one I have works just fine. I have to see if I can find the pulley for the tree topper part. I'm sure I have it in my bag of spare parts. My winch doesn't show the steel cable because the one I had was in pretty bad shape so I removed it. You can buy this stuff at Home Depot locally. Each of these parts go for $30-35 new, I'd like to try and get $10-15 each. I would prefer it if someone said "hey, I will take all of them from you", but either way, PM me if interested. Thanks for looking, -Louie
  2. Ahh, ok, well that is common sense! I thought you were going to say that components had to be swapped out, etc., which I had never heard of. I purchased these from LOR as the assembled card only (obviously they would NEVER use an ugly yellow weatherproof case like I did!) and I wired the feed cords to the controller cards. I am using 12AWG wire and 20A plugs (those are the grey plugs that you see in the pictures for the yellow box 40A controllers). Fuses are set at 20A. So, yes, these are 40A controllers. -Louie
  3. Hi Don, I purchased these controllers from LOR with the promise of them being 40A units (which if memory serves me, meant purchasing them with the high power heat sinks mounted by LOR). I don't see why I should have to modify anything to run at a performance level that I purchased them to run at. As you can see by clicking my name, I've been around this forum since 2007 (like you) and other forums since 2005 and I guess I've never come across a thread suggesting that these had to be modified. Can you clarify what it is that you are referring to? Thanks, -Louie
  4. Hey all, I am looking to sell the remainder of my LOR AC controllers. I think three of them are PC type, 30A. Two are the D type 40A controllers. All 16 channels. All in cases with some type of cables coming out of the case. I know two of the PC series controllers have zip cord and vampire plug cabling coming out. These were all working and will be verified to be working before I would ship them out, otherwise I will send them to LOR to inspect. The controllers have been used appropriately for many years. I bought the 12 LOR controllers I had between 2006 and 2010, so these are from that time range. When I sold the first seven a few years back, I believe they went around $150. I don't know what folks are paying these days, so let's start at $150 and go down, i.e. make some offers. Please PM me if interested. Thanks for looking. Louie
  5. Looks great! I got 20 of the variable variety at Lowes last year for a couple bucks each after Halloween and the wife and I just got done carving (she drew, I carved). I put five 2811 pixels in each. What I love about your setup is that they are all sized differently. That makes a big difference (mine are all the same, which bothers me). I love the arch to, that was my plan originally after seeing someone else do something like that last year, but it's not gonna happen this year... with how awesome your setup looks, I think you can expect lots of copy cats next year... including me!
  6. Hey TJ, I pound the stack into the ground with a hammer, then attach the flood. I typically stay away from metal stakes too, so we'll see how this goes ;O) -Louie
  7. First off, I love this 10W flood! Thanks LOR for coming out with something like this... I really didn't want to hack any other floods up and didn't want to deal with DMX... Heavy duty spike $2.50 to $4.50 depending on length Tee bracket $1 1/4-20 nuts and bolts < $1 1 zip tie so I didn't have to try and drill through that spike which is solid iron... $0.001 These should be sturdy and took all of 30 seconds to put together... I also put a couple of videos shot in my garage up on Vimeo... https://vimeo.com/album/2565172/video/76738899 https://vimeo.com/album/2565172/video/76738381 Thanks for looking. -Louie
  8. Make sure to learn from my lesson above Merry Christmas! -Louie
  9. Sure thing! Here's the link (actually $4.15 each, I was off by $0.15!): http://www.sparcotech.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=RJ45-ECS -Louie
  10. I am attaching a picture of what I used. Part of my issue was that I didn't find a need for the external portion (the big thick part splits into two segments, the pigtail goes into the box).... well after seeing the corrosion I saw... I now know that I should have used my brain a bit more. -Louie Attached files
  11. So with all the rain we got in Florida the last few days, my display (176 channels of LOR, mix of PC and 40A rated cards) was going absolutely bonkers when running (this is after the rain, but still while stuff was wet). Channels were coming on that shouldn't have been, channels were getting stuck on, some even shimmered when there's no shimmering in the sequence! I was at my wits end. After reading through all the posts here about potentially bad LOR cards this year (I had 5 new cards this year!) I started to fret... but also saw the posts regarding the bad ethernet cables or connections.... I had been having some issues with communication that seemed to be failing ethernet jacks on my boxes, so I decided it was time to spend some time during the day looking into this... I got out today at 9AM and started pulling ALL my ethernet cables from the 11 controllers. As I was doing this, I noticed that the weatherproof ethernet sockets that I was using to get ethernet into my box (basically a recessed ethernet jack with a gasketed attachment to the box and a pigtail that plugs into the RJ45 jack in the box) were all corroded... turns out, I was using them wrong.... @#$% They came with an extra nipple piece that was supposed to be placed to protect the external socket and I didn't use it... So, probably 5-6 of the 22 of them I had on the 11 controllers had corrosion and were probably causing horribly garbled communication signals to be sent amongst the cards... I can only imagine what that was doing to the COMM lines... So, I pulled all 22 of those and did it the good old-fashioned way of simply running the CAT5 cable in through a hole and directly plugging it into the LOR card... no more of this fancy-schancy RJ45 jack stuff.... All is well & it is up and running tonight for the first time yet this year. Still only have half of my songs updated and running... remaining songs should be finished this week. Just wanted to put this out there.... if you're having weird issues with lights coming on or staying on that shouldn't be... look into your cables and look at the connections those cables make to the card.... oh, and read the manual that comes with the $4 weatherproof RJ45 socket.... these things are really nice for $4 if used properly. Thanks for reading, -Louie
  12. -klb- wrote: Thanks for the excellent reply. I think you hit the point I was looking for with the text I saved above. I didn't know anything about the triacs and their relative cost. What your saying makes perfect sense, there really wouldn't be a savings by going to lower current, that is not what we're paying for.... and now this all makes perfect sense to me. We are paying the $120 for the card based on what the card does, not what it is rated for, so I'm not going to save money by going to a lower current card. The other point of my post was to figure out the cheapest way to get to a packaged 16 channel card. LOR support replied to me that the heat sinks serve two purposes, sinking heat (which obviously isn't a concern for my example of tenths of mA per channel) and mounting the card. There are holes in the LOR boards that I can use to mount the card inside a housing in this example. I'm going to try and focus on the $100 a card price and go from there. Worry about housings and cordsets (like you said, I can use low power cordsets for cheap) later. -Louie
  13. Thanks for the replies everybody. I guess part of me wishes that LOR made higher channel cards that were very low current. I mean, the more channels you typically use, the less you are putting on each channel current wise. I don't need 8A per channel and I don't need 30A or 40A total for 16 channels.... I need 32 channels with a total of 3.2A current draw and it seems that two x $150-200 cards is a waste for that. You would think that with the advent of LED lighting and the low power draw that it brings, that LOR would come out with two product lines. One geared towards the incandescent group and one toward the LED or low power draw group... and I'm not talking about their DC line. -Louie
  14. Funny subject line huh? Anyways, what I am referring to with "minimum current" is, I typically buy the PC line of controllers. Next year I wanted to put a controller for several (16) small trees that will only draw around 0.1A each... seems like a waste of a card that cost $150-200 right? Well, I was thinking that I could go without some of the options that come on the cards and I'm wondering how to go about doing that. for instance, the bare cards during the sale might cost $100 but then $20 for high power heatsinks, an enclosure, etc. Can I go without the $20 heatsinks if I am doing 0.1A per channel? What about if I put the card in the plastic enclosure? The card specs state "use the high power heatsinks if you put this in the plastic enclosure" but is it really necessary for 0.1A? Ok, that is my question, how little current can you do without requiring the high power heatsinks and what kind of enclsoure does it have to go in? Thanks! -Louie in Melbourne
  15. It will be easier for me to check that after the season is done, not easy to get to Unit 03 to see inside the jack, can only barely reach it to plug and unplug. Thanks for the info, I will check that after the season. -Louie in Melbourne
  16. I've already contacted Dan & the crew to see if I can get this fixed after the season is done. Trust me, I won't forget this happened -Louie in Melbourne
  17. Well, I have solved the problem. It turns out, the right-most RJ45 jack on Unit 03 appears to be dead, I can't get any signal to go out of it. I brought Unit 04 in off the roof to where the computer is and it worked just fine. I took it out near where Unit 03 was and plugged the output from Unit 02 into Unit 04 and it worked. I then plugged a short cable from Unit 03 into Unit 04 and sure as heck it didn't work. I ended up running a phone cable from Unit 02 to Unit 03 to free up the working RJ45 jack on Unit 03 to run up to Unit 04 on the roof.... All is well and the lights are on for the first time this year! Yippeee! -Louie in Melbourne
  18. Sorry, yes, it is the fourth unit, Unit 04 that has the blinking LED and that I can't communicate with. In the hardware utility, I have the max units set to 15. I haven't tried a different channel with Unit 04 yet, that will be tonight. I will post back. I'm also going to get it off the roof and bring it in to the PC. I didn't feel confident doing that last night in the dark up on the roof with my flashlight, but will do it tonight. I would be comfortable with swapping chips. I work at a company that develops communications electronics and we have a bunch of static strap bench stations where I could do it the right way... Will post in later tonight once I'm home. Thanks! -Louie in Melbourne
  19. This is my 3rd year with LOR using the same four controllers in the same order that I did last year. I have a CTB16D that has a flashing LED when powered on, but isn't detected in the Hardware Utility. Some background: Using LOR 1 Hardware Utility is v1.6.6. Unit 01 is a CTB16D ver 3.0 Unit 02 is a CTB16PC ver 4.02 Unit 03 is a CTB16PC ver 4.02 Unit 04 is a CTB16D ver 4.0 Let's see, I am using the serial adapter from my PC. I am using the same ~ 100' Cat5 cable from the serial adapter to the first unit, it worked last year. I am using short 10' Cat5 cables between 01 > 02 > 03, they are all mounted on one pole. I am then using another long Cat5 cable between Unit 03 up to Unit 04 on the roof. I have tried two different long cables from 03 > 04 thinking that maybe the cable had gone bad. Did nothing. I tried the resetting of the unit (unplug COMM cable, unplug power, set switches to 0-0, power back on for ~ 10 seconds, power off, set switch to intended Unit ID, connect COMM cable, power back on) and that did nothing. Anything else to try? Oh, I tried switching the Cat5 cable between the two ethernet ports as well and that did nothing. What am I just not seeing here? Thanks.... < 1 week to showtime and I've got a non-functioning crucial controller! -Louie in Melbourne
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