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About nutz4lights

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    Melbourne, FL
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    Research Scientist

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  1. Hey All, My attic clean-out continues and I came across my original 20' tall megatree parts that I no longer use. I switched these up when I switched the tree to pixels a few years back and the thought was "keep these so I can setup a second megatree at some point". There is no way that is going to happen, so I'd like to get these sold to someone that is interested in getting a megatree setup. Please see the pictures. I bought this system that allowed you to hook your strings onto the hook head and then crank them up to the top. As I said above, my new system uses pixels mounted to a rigid pole, so I no longer need to "crank up" the lights to the top. http://www.christmaslightshow.com/Mega-Christmas-Tree-Pulley-Head.html http://www.christmaslightshow.com/mega-tree-hook-head-outdoor-Christmas-decorations.html http://www.christmaslightshow.com/musical-christmas-lights.html There isn't a link for the 5-way base adapter as he has changed the way he offers that part. The one I have works just fine. I have to see if I can find the pulley for the tree topper part. I'm sure I have it in my bag of spare parts. My winch doesn't show the steel cable because the one I had was in pretty bad shape so I removed it. You can buy this stuff at Home Depot locally. Each of these parts go for $30-35 new, I'd like to try and get $10-15 each. I would prefer it if someone said "hey, I will take all of them from you", but either way, PM me if interested. Thanks for looking, -Louie
  2. Ahh, ok, well that is common sense! I thought you were going to say that components had to be swapped out, etc., which I had never heard of. I purchased these from LOR as the assembled card only (obviously they would NEVER use an ugly yellow weatherproof case like I did!) and I wired the feed cords to the controller cards. I am using 12AWG wire and 20A plugs (those are the grey plugs that you see in the pictures for the yellow box 40A controllers). Fuses are set at 20A. So, yes, these are 40A controllers. -Louie
  3. Hi Don, I purchased these controllers from LOR with the promise of them being 40A units (which if memory serves me, meant purchasing them with the high power heat sinks mounted by LOR). I don't see why I should have to modify anything to run at a performance level that I purchased them to run at. As you can see by clicking my name, I've been around this forum since 2007 (like you) and other forums since 2005 and I guess I've never come across a thread suggesting that these had to be modified. Can you clarify what it is that you are referring to? Thanks, -Louie
  4. Hey all, I am looking to sell the remainder of my LOR AC controllers. I think three of them are PC type, 30A. Two are the D type 40A controllers. All 16 channels. All in cases with some type of cables coming out of the case. I know two of the PC series controllers have zip cord and vampire plug cabling coming out. These were all working and will be verified to be working before I would ship them out, otherwise I will send them to LOR to inspect. The controllers have been used appropriately for many years. I bought the 12 LOR controllers I had between 2006 and 2010, so these are from that time range. When I sold the first seven a few years back, I believe they went around $150. I don't know what folks are paying these days, so let's start at $150 and go down, i.e. make some offers. Please PM me if interested. Thanks for looking. Louie
  5. Looks great! I got 20 of the variable variety at Lowes last year for a couple bucks each after Halloween and the wife and I just got done carving (she drew, I carved). I put five 2811 pixels in each. What I love about your setup is that they are all sized differently. That makes a big difference (mine are all the same, which bothers me). I love the arch to, that was my plan originally after seeing someone else do something like that last year, but it's not gonna happen this year... with how awesome your setup looks, I think you can expect lots of copy cats next year... including me!
  6. Hey TJ, I pound the stack into the ground with a hammer, then attach the flood. I typically stay away from metal stakes too, so we'll see how this goes ;O) -Louie
  7. First off, I love this 10W flood! Thanks LOR for coming out with something like this... I really didn't want to hack any other floods up and didn't want to deal with DMX... Heavy duty spike $2.50 to $4.50 depending on length Tee bracket $1 1/4-20 nuts and bolts < $1 1 zip tie so I didn't have to try and drill through that spike which is solid iron... $0.001 These should be sturdy and took all of 30 seconds to put together... I also put a couple of videos shot in my garage up on Vimeo... https://vimeo.com/album/2565172/video/76738899 https://vimeo.com/album/2565172/video/76738381 Thanks for looking. -Louie
  8. Make sure to learn from my lesson above Merry Christmas! -Louie
  9. Sure thing! Here's the link (actually $4.15 each, I was off by $0.15!): http://www.sparcotech.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=RJ45-ECS -Louie
  10. I am attaching a picture of what I used. Part of my issue was that I didn't find a need for the external portion (the big thick part splits into two segments, the pigtail goes into the box).... well after seeing the corrosion I saw... I now know that I should have used my brain a bit more. -Louie Attached files
  11. So with all the rain we got in Florida the last few days, my display (176 channels of LOR, mix of PC and 40A rated cards) was going absolutely bonkers when running (this is after the rain, but still while stuff was wet). Channels were coming on that shouldn't have been, channels were getting stuck on, some even shimmered when there's no shimmering in the sequence! I was at my wits end. After reading through all the posts here about potentially bad LOR cards this year (I had 5 new cards this year!) I started to fret... but also saw the posts regarding the bad ethernet cables or connections.... I had been having some issues with communication that seemed to be failing ethernet jacks on my boxes, so I decided it was time to spend some time during the day looking into this... I got out today at 9AM and started pulling ALL my ethernet cables from the 11 controllers. As I was doing this, I noticed that the weatherproof ethernet sockets that I was using to get ethernet into my box (basically a recessed ethernet jack with a gasketed attachment to the box and a pigtail that plugs into the RJ45 jack in the box) were all corroded... turns out, I was using them wrong.... @#$% They came with an extra nipple piece that was supposed to be placed to protect the external socket and I didn't use it... So, probably 5-6 of the 22 of them I had on the 11 controllers had corrosion and were probably causing horribly garbled communication signals to be sent amongst the cards... I can only imagine what that was doing to the COMM lines... So, I pulled all 22 of those and did it the good old-fashioned way of simply running the CAT5 cable in through a hole and directly plugging it into the LOR card... no more of this fancy-schancy RJ45 jack stuff.... All is well & it is up and running tonight for the first time yet this year. Still only have half of my songs updated and running... remaining songs should be finished this week. Just wanted to put this out there.... if you're having weird issues with lights coming on or staying on that shouldn't be... look into your cables and look at the connections those cables make to the card.... oh, and read the manual that comes with the $4 weatherproof RJ45 socket.... these things are really nice for $4 if used properly. Thanks for reading, -Louie
  12. -klb- wrote: Thanks for the excellent reply. I think you hit the point I was looking for with the text I saved above. I didn't know anything about the triacs and their relative cost. What your saying makes perfect sense, there really wouldn't be a savings by going to lower current, that is not what we're paying for.... and now this all makes perfect sense to me. We are paying the $120 for the card based on what the card does, not what it is rated for, so I'm not going to save money by going to a lower current card. The other point of my post was to figure out the cheapest way to get to a packaged 16 channel card. LOR support replied to me that the heat sinks serve two purposes, sinking heat (which obviously isn't a concern for my example of tenths of mA per channel) and mounting the card. There are holes in the LOR boards that I can use to mount the card inside a housing in this example. I'm going to try and focus on the $100 a card price and go from there. Worry about housings and cordsets (like you said, I can use low power cordsets for cheap) later. -Louie
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