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Marty Spain

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  • Content Count

    74
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About Marty Spain

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 01/14/1952

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Roselle, IL
  • Occupation
    Park District operations worker

More About Me

  • Interests
    Hockey, Build Desktop computers A+ certified, Motorcycling. I like building LOR controllers! Model Railroading HO scale.
  • How I learned about Light-O-Rama -
    A collegue from Motorola Inc. where I had worked for 34 years.
  • Favorite Decorating Holiday?
    Christmas

LOR Software

  • LOR Software Version
    3.12.2
  • License Level
    Advanced

Recent Profile Visitors

361 profile views
  1. Plenum cat cable is designed for outside and more serious environmental issues. It is more expensive though. I also have a Palidin cable tester to check any cable. Have a great day!
  2. LOR will be glad to work with you to get them. They may be very busy right now. They are not expensive around $2.50 ea. In that range anyway! You buy 10 and price per unit drops. Marty
  3. You can buy the BTA16 snubberless triac from Digi-Key. That is where I buy them. Just go to their website search that number. Marty
  4. Yes a bad triac! I have had 4 over the years short on my controllers. a BTA16 snubberless triac. I keep around 10 on hand. I go through Digi-Key#497-3122-5-ND. around $1.44 each if you buy 10. Marty
  5. I certainly agree with everyone 63/37 is better. ROHS stuff is more politics than environmentally better. We had to use nitrogen over our solderwave systems because of icicling. Reflow was the latter technology and had its drawbacks also. But for surface mount better and cheaper. Harder to repair with 0102 components! The size of dust particles. That is why the newer LOR controllers are not offered as DIY kits. Sorry to carry on about this but I can't help myself!
  6. I am in Lad Vegas right now so I have not checked to see if you have other replies. So my solution could have been answered already. I have reloaded the usb drivers. I build computers and have had this problem in the past. Hope this helps. Marty
  7. I worked for Motorola for 34 years and was a tech and production manager in SMT . Soldering became second nature repairing many circuit boards at component level using ROHS standards which do make the lead free or almost lead free solder harder to work with, but if you know your soldering as I have learned this should not be a problem. Using a solder station is better than using a 60W , 100 watt or 600W iron etc.... Using the correct tips and gauge solder is important as well. Wetting the surface to be soldered is the most critical part to a good solder joint. Adding a little flux before adding solder speeds up the wetting process and proper wicking needed. I never had issues with soldering. It is not for everyone though, it takes practice. Hope this helps. Marty
  8. I have 3) 8 channel and 9) 16 channel CTB16s and have only had to replace 2 triacs on 2 controllers since 2006. They are robust systems. I built most of them using the DIY kits. I live in the Chicago area, they are outside in the below zero weather and snow and are great! Important note is to make sure your light connections are good. My triacs shorted due to blow mold c7 light bases shorted which caused the triacs to short to the ON state. They were on my roof where I have displays as well. I now run 88,000 lights with 13 controllers. Marty
  9. I use NEMA R3 steel enclosures 10x10x 4 inches. These are the type designed for outdoor use. They are also the type used by LOR if you buy the pro models like the CTB 16 V6 controllers. You can use the plastic versions as well they have to keep water or snow out of them. I buy from a local electrical supply which specialize in these type enclosures. You may be able to get them from a home improvement center as well. I have 14 controllers all are the R3 type but 2 which are the OEM units from LOR. I build my own units using the DIY kits. Never had any issues with outside environment. I live in the Chicago area, so they see nasty cold and raining winter weather since 2006 sice I started using LOR products. Good luck ! Marty
  10. I have been a customer since 2006. They have been great! I agree 100 percent! Marty
  11. I agree with SparkDr. Make sure you are comfortable going into the load center when troubleshooting though. I have amp probes and other testing gear so I look for loading issues as well as make sure if you have only one load center that it is bonded to ground. I don't want to get into this too deep but your electrician should have checked for this as well. Breakers when they get old will buzz but an overload will do it also. If the breakers are not warm to the touch or if they are, check load balance on each breaker. Or have someone do that for you. Merry Christmas folks! Marty
  12. I forgot to ask if the LEDs were lit or functioning. If the LED is off, this usually means you have no power to the unit. The right side of the 16 channel controller must have power for the system to control. Sometimes the right fuse blows cutting off the power.
  13. To clarify, You are using PC versions? If so, What I have done since I only have 2 PC versions and 10 D versions. I would just hook up one controller at a time to set the ID. I had trouble linking them when I had both linked. Set what ID you want as long at it is not the same as any other one. If you did not try this first, do so now. Your PC will setup the comm port of the PC to communicate with your controller. If you are successful doing this for both units independently then you can set up each one's ID by itself on you PC. See what happens.
  14. Can we back track a little here. What controllers are you using? Do they have the ID switches or are they (PC) type CTB 16 PC or CTB 16 Ds. If you have the PC version they have to be flashed to the eprom with the ID you want. Does your PC recognize a comm port when in the HU? Marty
  15. I use cyberlink power director 12. You can separate audio and video and add your own audio.
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