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gwallman1

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About gwallman1

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Indianapolis, IN
  • Occupation
    Manager

More About Me

  • How I learned about Light-O-Rama -
    Have used LOR equipment for several years now.
  • Favorite Decorating Holiday?
    Christmas
  1. As I pulled everything out to begin prep work and testing for this year, it occurred to me I never updated this thread. Sorry about that!!! Last year, I ran the show with the old PC that has always been used. So the show ran without issues in the end. But I continued to try to diagnose the issues with the used laptop I purchased and had used LOR Help Desk as well. I'm a bit embarrassed to say how easy the fix was. Turns out, when they sold me the laptop, they failed to input the Windows license key and therefore, the PC (and perhaps the LOR software?) thought it was a non-genuine or pirated copy of Windows. Got that resolved with the proper license key, and voila...everything is working now in this year's tests so far! Thanks again to everyone along the way. If nothing else, I learned lots of things about the various settings and network preference options within LOR during the process. That may come in handy at some point in the future.
  2. Good thought...didn't think of that as the drivers auto-installed as soon as I plugged each USB in. But I did do that now, but the results didn't change unfortunately. Correct in that the Windows Device Manager finds no errors. I'm running Windows 7, 64-bit, Service Pack 1 on both machines. The timing on the license is a possibility. It sure seems like I did the laptop install prior to that timing, but I can't swear to it, so I will attempt that route with a service ticket. If nothing else, it gets a ticket in for the overall issues and perhaps additional assistance, right? No, I am not running the show and HU (or any other LOR application) simultaneously. I always close out prior to enabling the shows, and vice versa when I disable them. Overall folks, I just want to say a huge thank you for all of the thoughts. This is a tremendous community and you all taking time out of your schedules, Thanksgiving holiday, and probably last-minute changes/setups/additions/etc to your displays....what a great group of people. I can't say thanks enough for all of the tips to try.
  3. Well, I thought with time I could figure it out, but I'm still having no luck. If I connect to the old PC, all is perfectly fine. As soon as I connect to the laptop, that is when I have issues. So first process of elimination - it is obviously the controlling PC, not the controllers themselves or any of the connections. So then into the laptop I go. I went to Network Preferences and verified the COM ports with the proper network names, speeds, etc. I verified the LOR product is licensed on this laptop (it has my license key, name for registered user, etc). I've tried switching what COM ports things are connected to, but the results don't change (even with adjusting the Network Preferences to match). It doesn't matter if I try to control the lights through the Sequence Editor or if I run the full show on its schedule - nothing happens. Each controller status light is blinking, indicating a communication failure with the laptop. What I can't seem to get over mentally is when I open the Hardware Utility, those status lights go solid and I'm able to successfully test every channel on every controller on every network. So obviously the PC is communicating fine with the controllers...but something changes when moving from the Hardware Utility to the actual show. At least I've got it narrowed down that far, but that is where I hit the roadblock. To answer the other questions - I'm running 3.11.2 (yes, I know an old version, but its what I know and have always used and always worked....and still works on the old PC). I have 5 16-channel controllers I put together as kits nearly 10 years ago. I have a 6th 16-channel controller I purchased 2 years ago already assembled. Then I also have 3 RGB pixel controllers. I do not see a "COM Listener" anywhere in the menus, which I'm attributing to the fact I'm on an older software version. I do have the Verifier, though, and have run that. It did give me an error about "compatibility mode for old MC-P channel controllers." So I turned that off, but it didn't fix anything (and worth noting, the old PC also has that option selected and again, the old PC controls things fine). Verifier also gives me a long list of errors all the same saying the channel is off, and each channel is lists corresponds to all of the RGB Pixels. All "traditional" channels seem to pass the test fine. But as noted before, when using the Hardware Utility, I can control things perfectly fine...including the RGBs. So I'm confident it is the laptop, since the old PC works fine. And I'm confident it is somewhere in the show controlling, since the Hardware Utility works just fine. But I'm back to scratching my head after that point.
  4. Thanks, all. I've hooked everything back up to the old PC and the show runs just fine. So it is definitely somewhere within the laptop settings, or maybe the registration of the PC, etc. I'll keep trying. Thanks again for the suggestions.
  5. Yes, I do have the Control Panel running in the system tray.
  6. I've been running LOR shows for approximately 10 years now without any major issues. At the conclusion of last season, I bought a laptop to be dedicated to only running the lights. Now that I have everything installed, set up, etc, I'm running into an issue I've never had before and haven't found other threads with the same issue. I verified my Network Preferences on the laptop match what they were on the previous PC (I have 2 networks - a regular at 500K and auxiliary at 57.6K due to age of the 16-channel controllers). I've run the Hardware Utility and all devices are found and I can test each channel, and the lights work fine. So all appears to be good to go. But then when I initiate the show, only the audio comes through - all lights stay dark. I've gone into the Sequence Editor and double checked the channel settings there as well to ensure they are showing the correct networks, unit ids, etc. I'm dumbfounded at this point. Any thoughts? Thank you!
  7. gwallman1

    CCPs taking too much computing power?

    Had a PM also advising of multiple networks. They are older controllers (been using them 7 or 8 years now). PC has 2.8 GHz processor with 6 GB of RAM. I appreciate the feedback. I'll give running 2 networks a shot next year. We do plan on adding either another controller or another set of CCPs, just haven't decided which yet. Run 5 controllers and 3 sets of CCPs currently. Thanks again!
  8. I really didn't know where to post this because it is a combined CCP, 16-channel controller, Sequence Editor, and/or PC question. I'm using CCPs for this first time this year. Love the effects that are possible. But I've noticed when they are doing more complex effects, the traditional lights on 16-channel controllers get very jumpy. Admittedly, the timing within the sequences are very short - 0.05 seconds or shorter at times. But the react fine at those intervals until the CCPs start doing faster fades and such. Has anyone else had this problem? Could it be my PC simply doesn't have a fast enough processor? As an example, see this video. Specifically, at around 1:30, you see the arches dancing fine. But then around 1:45, the CCPs kick on for multiple color fades very quickly and the arches begin getting very jumpy, skipping some of the segments bouncing back and forth. At around 1:00, the trees also don't react quite right. But that isn't as noticeBle as the arches. As always, thanks in advance for any thoughts.
  9. Yes, I'm getting started with CCPs (2 units with 2 strings of 50 bulbs each), so going through Hardware Utility to set unit ids, etc and then SuperStar and Sequence Editor to play around and learn how to program them.
  10. My PC sits in one room. I've run monitor cables through the walls and into a dual-TV setup in the basement (have used this setup for 4 or 5 years now). Therefore, I can't sit next to the PC. So I use a wireless keyboard and mouse. Everything functions fine, until I have either the LOR Hardware Utility or Sequence Editor open. If one of them are open, the mouse gets very jumpy and only responds intermittently. Many times, I have to click 5 or more times before the Hardware/Sequence recognizes it. Moving the mouse around sometimes works and sometimes doesn't, but when it does, the pointer is very jumpy. I've tried plugging various things into different USB ports, disconnecting peripherals I'm not actively using, putting new batteries in the mouse, etc. I'm also only a couple of feet from the receiver/antenna that picks up the keyboard and mouse. Since everything runs fine except only with LOR is running, it would appear these items are conflicting with eachother...almost as if they are fighting for the same PC resources. Anyone else run into this type of issue and if so, have any suggestions? The jumpiness and intermittent nature of the mouse makes it highly frustrating, if not nearly impossible, to actually perform any tasks within the LOR suite. Thanks.
  11. gwallman1

    License renewal / software upgrade

    The license key was provided (and still the same as previous). I was just looking for how to initiate the download first. Thanks for pointing me to the right location on the LOR site, Admin. That was the one piece of info not included in the emails - the actual location of the downloads. I've now completed and opened and all seems to be running fine. Thanks as always for the assistance.
  12. Over the weekend, I paid to renew my license so I'd be updated (upgraded) from 2.9.4 to 3.17. I also purchased the SuperStar add on for rgb pixels. I purchased the download only option (no CD). Afterwards, I received emails confirming the purchase and in the message instructions stated AFTER installing the new version of software, open sequence editor, etc. But nothing was ever provided to actually download the software or any instructions to do so. Since it specifies to enter the new license key AFTER downloading the new version, I'm afraid to do anything now or out of order. I emailed LOR's software address as it suggests, but have never heard back (3 business days now). LOR has always provided great service and prompt responses, so with this delay in responding, I thought I'd ask here if anyone can steer me in the right direction. Thanks.
  13. gwallman1

    Pixels & cutting/extending the wires

    The gauge of wire I'd just match up to whatever they come as. As for the gaps, there would be a few different breaks. One string would need a 12 1/2 foot break, another string just under 4 feet, another one about 10 feet, and the last string wouldn't need a break in the middle of the lights but would need a big jump between the controller and the first bulb of about 12 feet.
  14. I'd like to add RGB to my display. Looking at the CCPixels which come as two 25-foot long strands of 50 pixels each. If I have multiple roof lines, each less than 25 feet long, I should be able to cut the wires and solder in additional wiring to lengthen the gap between bulbs, right? It is either that or waste multiple sections of the strand to wrap around trim, stretch the line between sections, etc (because I would never turn on the lights in those areas). Thanks in advance. I just want to be sure I don't buy a few sets, then immediately ruin them by cutting the wires.
  15. gwallman1

    Fire! Help, what did I do wrong?

    This thread really has me nervous, probably more than anything because the cause isn't truly known. But the reason I'm nervous is because I mount all of my controllers inside the garage, rather than outside. All of mine were the kits that I assembled myself, so I do not have the weather enclosures. I was also afraid someone might think it would be fun/funny to try to steal them. So we knocked out 1/2 brick on the side of the garage, put one of the plastic electrical boxes in (what is inside your walls that the outlets sit in), and pass multi-conductor cables through that hole and up to 4-outlet boxes on the other end of the cables. That also means I can screw the wires directly into the terminals rather than having an individual plug for each channel. But the fact they are inside the garage means if one were to catch fire as shown here, the whole garage and house could go up in flames! I've been running them for 6 years without any issues, but you never know when something might develop. I don't mean to take away from Klayfish's issues and the various suggestions and help offered to him, but do you think I've got a valid concern or think I'm overreacting? Hopefully the latter, as this is the first fire I've seen/heard about, so appears the risk is pretty small. Thanks.
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