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RevMen

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About RevMen

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    Austin, TX
  • Occupation
    Acoustical Engineer

More About Me

  • How I learned about Light-O-Rama -
    The Internet
  • Favorite Decorating Holiday?
    XM

LOR Software

  • LOR Software Version
    3.9.0
  • License Level
    Advanced
  1. I'm wondering if this problem is more pronounced on gen 3 boards. I did not try a capacitor. Changing my background show to have no fades fixed the problem and I don't have the energy to figure out where to attach a capacitor just yet. I was hoping someone from LOR would chime in to give a suggestion for a solution before adding more hardware.
  2. It's a flat 4-conductor. I might try to replace it with Cat 5 to see if that helps. I'm not sure what I would want to ground the shield of a shielded cable to, I guess the earth connector inside the enclosure. The board itself is floating, as far as I know. Maybe twisted pair would solve the issue. I didn't see any 60 Hz on the oscilloscope, just the high speed switching of the TRIACs, so I don't think it's a typical case of 60-Hz hum. I could see the frequency shift in the noise signature as fades occurred. I guess that noise could also be transmitting from power cables, but my signal cable is now pretty well removed from all of my extension cords, and when it does cross it does so at at least 70 degree angle. Which model/generation of LOR board do you have?
  3. I ran my fade-less show all evening and didn't have a single false trigger, except at the very end of the triggered sequence itself, which ends in a fade out of all channels. If I can find some relatively inexpensive shielded cable I'll try that to see if it helps.
  4. I think I've just about confirmed that it's noise from the faders that cause the false triggers. I changed my background show so that it has no fades at all and I haven't had a false trigger since. I also think that one of the factors is where my connector cable is inside of the case with respect to other components. If I take my jumper cable off the board completely and look at the connectors through my oscilloscope, I see noise increase and decrease as I move it around in front of different elements on the circuit board. I think the variability I saw in whether the phone cord was attached was due, basically, to different positioning of the jumper cable as I plugged and unplugged things. I will continue to evaluate but I think I've found the problem. It's very disappointing because it seems to be a design flaw. It's not possible to pass a cable into the case without running it in front of the whole board, since the jumpers are at the top. Plus I see a lot more noise when the jumper is actually connected to the headers, making me think there's noise leakage through the PCB itself. I'm wide open to any suggestions anyone might have on how to solve this.
  5. I no longer think my cable is the prime trouble maker. I got some false triggers without the phone cable attached, although they are pretty rare. I put my oscilloscope between the GND and INPUT2 pins (which I'm using to trigger the show) with just my little jumper attached. Most of the time there's a fairly constant 3V DC between these pins, which I guess I would expect. But, as some of my channels fade in and out, there's noise visible with a peak to peak of anywhere from 600 mV to over 3 V. This happens with and without the 50' phone cable attached, although the voltages are a little bit different. Every now and then there's a big spike in the voltage and sometimes that causes a false trigger to occur. It looks to me like there's a lot of TRIAC noise getting into the triggering circuit that is exacerbated when there's a cable attached to the pins. I guess I will see if I can put a capacitor across the leads to filter out the high frequency noise.
  6. The best I can do is separate them by about 2-3 feet and make sure it crosses all other cords as close to 90 degrees as I can get. That does not help.
  7. I use one of the inputs on the CTB16PC gen 3 to start my show at the push of a button. I've been getting false triggers sometimes. Sometimes it's more than an hour between, sometimes it's every 9 minutes. It's always annoying. I have a momentary push button in a box mounted on a pedestal by the road. The push button is connected to a standard phone jack. I have a 4-pin header connected to the input connectors on the board that's wired to another phone jack. I connect the two locations with a 50-foot phone cord. I get false triggers whenever the phone cable is connected, whether or not the button is connected. If I unhook the phone cable from the controller, even if the headers are connected to the phone jack inside the controller enclosure, no false triggers. It's only that long length of phone cord. So this leads me to believe that the false triggers are being caused by some kind of noise being picked up by the phone cord. It runs alongside a power cord but otherwise it has a decent distance from any other lights or cables. I have all LED lights in my yard, so I suppose noise from those strings is causing the problem. Is there any kind of filter I can add to the line to keep this from happening? Or any changes to the firmware? Or anything else I can do to keep this from happening?
  8. It works great for me. Thank you so much for this idea. I would never have thought to try that. I've seen a number of people with the same problem and it seems worth doing a feature request for. There have got to be quite a few of us folks who want to have "ambient" sequences running until someone hits a button, which starts a series of sequences.
  9. I ordered my first 2 LOR controllers recently, a pair of CTB16PCg3's. I also ordered a CTB16 Input Connector, as the description said that boards with the required 18-pin connector "includes later models of ... CTB16PC." I assumed that gen3 would count as a "later model." But the g3 boards have a 20-pin connector, not 18, so apparently the Input Connector description is out of date. So, is it possible to use the Input Connector on the 20-pin header? If not, is there a 20-pin Input Connector I don't know about? If not, what is a good way to attach a single switch to the input header on the gen3 board?
  10. Bump, I hope someone's around who understands this problem. Are you saying that this routine fixes the problem completely? Or are you saying I need to go through this little route every time I want to start the music again from the cursor?
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