Jump to content
Light-O-Rama Forums


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Landsailor

  • Rank
    New Forum User

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Occupation
    Industrial Controls

More About Me

  • How I learned about Light-O-Rama -
    Have seen it for years
  • Favorite Decorating Holiday?
  1. In amateur radio, if you're not actively using a frequency, you're supposed to stop using it. That will get you in HUGE trouble, but technically, this is broadcasting so it might legally be different. Plus, a 100% duty cycle would probably be fine for one of the Ramsey kits, but there's no use in it being powered up for no reason. Thanks for the devcon info, dslowik. I will take a look.
  2. Hi, Is there a way to enable/disable a system device from the command line? I would love to be able to turn the V-FMT212R on and off from a Windows command. I don't care whether it's enabling or disabling the device or figuring out a way to click the appropriate check box in the device's webserver. (There is no API available from what I've seen.) I'd just like to be able to turn the transmitter on and off without having to physically unplug the USB cable. Thanks!
  3. Good luck selling anything related to ion lasers. I know of a guy who offered a nice SP laser for free, just pay shipping, so it would go to a good home. No takers. It's amazing you can buy a full Class 4 self contained system for $1,500 and plug it into 120VAC.
  4. That would be an extremely helpful improvement and I currently just have 16 channels!
  5. Hi everyone, For some reason, my FM02 transmitter decided to let the magic blue smoke out of the capacitors this year. (No polarity or power issue.) I replaced it with a V-FMT212R and have been thoroughly enjoying it. The RDS is cool, the compression on the TX makes a world of difference, and generally it's an awesome little device. ....except for one thing. LOR uses the Default System Sound for its output. Which means no gaming or doing anything involving audio while the show is running. I've already submitted a ticket and they said they would consider it, but how many other people would find it useful to have LOR be able to choose its output device directly? With this feature, you could dedicate a separate sound card, USB speaker, or (in the case of the V-FMT212R) a transmitter to exclusive LOR use. If anyone has any ideas about a workaround, I'd appreciate learning about them. I've heard of Virtual Audio Cable, but man, this isn't the right time of year to be spending more and more money. The upgrade to Advanced to use the RDS was on the fence for awhile! Thanks! Jason
  6. That's awesome! Thanks for taking the time to type that! I had read somewhere that it was possible to automatically switch radios to your frequency. That would be pretty cool if tens of thousands of cars didn't travel right behind my house every day.
  7. FYI, be sure you're running version 1.2.268 of the control software for the radio. The one that was linked on Radiant's webpage was for the older version that would not read from a text file and didn't have the webserver login to the radio. BTW, how much data can an RDS message contain? I messed around with adding our email address, but it occasionally gets chopped off if I haven't renamed "Trans Siberian Orchestra" to TSO in the Sequence file.
  8. Hi, Due to being out of work since November 9, I wasn't able to implement my 16 channel system as I intended. Long story short, the budget was non-existent this year so the controller needs to be mounted outside near my display on the back of a brick column. It's not directly exposed to rain as it's under the eave of the house, but I have had decorations disappear from the yard in the past. I was thinking of using concrete anchors through five holes in the enclosure, sealing the screw holes with silicone, putting a lock on the enclosure, and relying on the dogs to let us know when someone walks up. (They're very, very good at that.) Thoughts? Suggestions? Thanks!
  9. I have not used them yet, but there are many people who are. There's a great thread on Reef Central in the DIY section about Minimalistic Multichip LED like I'm using. I just setup my 125 after having a 55 for six months, so I'm far from an expert. My metal halides add so much heat and draw over 4 amps when they're running. I have a good ten months left on the lamps (Radium 20Ks), but I really don't look forward to replacing them at $90 each! Are you using cool white or warm white LEDs? Do you run a refugium? I'm still just getting started, but I have a great skimmer and try to keep the macro algae fed well so there isn't any nitrate to feed the yucky algae. My brother owns a lawn service and he drew a parallel between a reef tank and the fertilizers he uses. "If you feed the good stuff well enough, there won't be enough food for the bad stuff" Weeds in his case, hair and brown algae in ours. This might be a "holiday" forum, but it's also here to help LOR users (and sell product!), so I don't think anyone should mind. I mentioned this idea to an Imagineer friend of mine. He's thinking about getting a couple of the DC boards to run LED lighting in his house and a miniature lighted fountain in his front yard.
  10. I talked to the tech guy. He confirmed that there is no current limiting on the board (as suspected) and that I would have to figure out the right value and current capacity resistor. The 10W units are just multi-die (3x3) on a single carrier. I really like the capability to have sixteen channels of control. If you have a new coral that still needs to acclimate, you could dim the lights just over that area. The downside is that I don't know how well the single program will handle all that. Dedicating a computer to run it 24/7 isn't alluring, but it's still cheaper than buying anything else available with tons more control.
  11. Hi, I am in the process of building an LED fixture for my reef tank using 10W LED chips. By the time it's all said and done, I will probably have twenty or more of the chips in three or four different colors. The fact that the CMB16D has sixteen channels and can handle 20A per bank makes it an amazing cost per channel driver. My LEDS have a forward voltage of 9-12V and a current draw of 900ma. I could easily run two of them in series to run 16 of them from one bank at 24VDC. Is there any current limiting on the board or does that need to be implemented in the LED circuit? (via a resistor?) How's the duty cycle on these? Has anyone else done this? Thanks! Jason
  • Create New...