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viennaxmas last won the day on January 27 2013

viennaxmas had the most liked content!

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About viennaxmas

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  1. 1/2 inch aluminum spray painted black...
  2. For the C9 technicolor pixels: use 1/2 inch aluminum and zip ties. Works perfect... I have almost 800 around my roof.
  3. While a lot of people do this, it is really not a good idea. Each LED color has a slightly different voltage and current use and the resistors in the strings are tuned to handle exactly what the factory default is. If you start changing bulbs around, some will get too much current / voltage and others will not get enough. I have tried this in my early years and ended up with a lot of dead strands after two seasons. However - I have seen many do it successful.
  4. The Chinese text problem is resolved in the latest version.
  5. Maybe I am missing something. My understanding is that you can continue sequencing the existing gear in SE as usual. And then you add PE sequenced material. No one forces you to do all in PE. I have several "dual" sequences... I pretty much only add pixel heavy stuff in PE, everything else is still done in SE...
  6. I will try the compatibility mode. I don't have a solution yet for the problem. As workaround I have split the scheduled time into two segments. So the show gets unloaded after 3 hours and loaded again. In addition I cleaned up the problematic sequence from all the unused channels. Unloading the show after 3 hours still makes me think there is some odd counter or memory issue...
  7. The BHPhoto link has a 12W LED. This has the light output of a 75W Incan bulb. I do have a bunch of 12W RGB spot lights and they work ok if they are pointed against a tree or a wall. No way they can make a beam outside. The Aliexpress link is not LED. It is a 7R HID lamp. This might work if you add fog and haze in ideal conditions. I have a few 60W LED moving heads (around 300 on eBay). They are great indoors and I used them Halloween to project gobos on my house. Even that was challenging but visible. I also have one 200W LED moving head. Again - great inside and works outside when foggy. For most part, the beam is not visible as shown in the videos. Haze helps but there cannot be any wind otherwise it is blown away. So - if you are looking for a nice spotlight to point onto houses or trees, something like this will work. If you are looking for the beam effect seen in the videos, 400W LED or over 575W HID (better actually 1200W) is what you need. I used to have two "SkyRose" which are projecting beams into the sky. The 1200W was pretty much unusable unless you have been away from any light source. Even the 2500W only worked so-so...
  8. May be depending what Ubiquity. And how they are configured. I tried the Unify to stream E1.31 from my iPad - absolutely no luck. However I us d a dedicated SSID/VLAN and tracking it showed that the latency on the main SSID was around 3ms (acceptable) and on the second one was never below 60ms which makes multicast fail. I also noticed that they sometimes still show good signal but transfer absolutely no data. But that was on Unify. No experience with the Nano. What I heard they are a lot better. If you need real distance - how about monoxide fiber? You could go for miles... Also: as long as you have a switch every 300ft you can cascade several of them to get distance.
  9. In the end it all boils down to the antenna. When I got my first TX the antenna was broken out of the box so I rigged up a wifi antenna. Could not even get a cross the street. Second year I got a quarter wave ground plane antenna and mounted it in the attic. Same TX settings and I hit the 2 mile mark during testing. Then had to scramble to get it down to acceptable distance (hence two attenuators). I always went for fully adjustable output power so I could fine tune the power level. Nevertheless- having a good antenna is the most important puzzle piece. And last my usual warning - so far it seems the FCC does not worry too much about what we do. However it only takes one or two overdoing it and we all may lose the ability to broadcast the music. So please - know the limits and try to stay close to them.
  10. https://m.facebook.com/ViennaXmas/photos/pb.352013801560918.-2207520000.1450122041./726479847447643/?type=3&source=42 This is Madrix Spectrum Analyzer
  11. There is / was a tool from BobO which did exactly what you are looking for. It pretty much created all the sequence parts for a VU meter: http://itsmebob.com/SD.html Or if you want real fancy use Madrix Spectrum Analyzer...
  12. These are actually the ones I use: they also have different DB values so you can try: http://www.mpja.com/mobile/10db-Feed-Through-Attennuator-Terminator/productinfo/16547+TE/
  13. http://www.americanradiosupply.com/10-db-fixed-coaxial-attenuator-bnc-connectors-50-ohm/?gclid=Cj0KEQiA7rmzBRDezri2r6bz1qYBEiQAg-YEtjsMr_3yXWLnQPjTQA9goigvZseFhvHqnDv-EuULNG0aAnaG8P8HAQ You need to find one which matches your connections. I have two in my antenna line...
  14. You could check with a local event company and rent them. Would also safe the storage space...
  15. They can be controlled using LOR SE via a DMX output. What you have seen on GCLF will run you at least $ 7,000 a piece including the dome. Anything below 1200W HID or comparable a 400W LED source will not be visible. I have one 200W LED and it only works when using a lot of haze / fog. Pretty much given up an this project. Good ones are: Elation, Martin, Clay Paky, Varilite. And the there is all the indoor DJ variants on eBay. Each dome is anywhere between $1000 and $6000 and a good moving head with sufficient light output starts at $4500.
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