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Quad

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  1. I have my CCPs in normal mode with 2 strings each. So per unit there is 100 pixels on the same controller ID... in my case 0C. I can't figure out how to set this up in the visualizer like this. The most i seem to be able to do is a 50 pixel string. Whats worse is when i import my channel configuration into the sequence editor import of the Superstar it doesn't put the channels into the right channels by address and just sloughs all the channels together for the CCPs. Any suggestions?
  2. As a followup I did find in the forums as a workaround is to go to "edit" and disable "undo recording" this helps but it still seems to consume memory every time i do a cut and paste. I don't recall this being a problem in earlier versions.
  3. I have a similar problem to John F. When I'm copying and pasting channels in the sequence editor it eats memory on every copy and paste until I run out of physical memory and the sequence editor freezes up. I usually can copy about 4 channels before this happens. It never seems to unload the memory it uses. I'm on 3.10.12 Advanced.
  4. I've been working on setting up my halloween display and I just wanted to turn my CCRs vibrant orange. You'd think this would be easy from the palette chooser....but the default orange is more of a dirty yellow once its displayed on the CCRs. I've manually selected other "orange" looking colors from the pallette and have gotten pink and white when its actually displayed on the CCR. Am I doing something wrong?
  5. I was thinking of using "neon flex" to make a large face on a 10 feet square frame. Has anyone tried this new type of LED rope light? I was just concerned it might not bend enough for the pumpkin face teeth. The other design concern is where the different channels overlap; it might not matter but on the overlaps, if a channel is off and overlapping it might make a gap.
  6. I bought aluminum flat bar from a local metal supply store. Most cities have them; they usually sell different grades of steel and aluminum. I got 12 feet strips for $5 each. Despite the length i did have to join two pieces because the vertical run on my house is about 17 feet. I just mated them up and screwed them in. I attached it to the house with blue masonry screws they have at lowes or home depot. I countersunk the aluminum so that the screws would be flush with the top of the aluminum bar. I usually put the screws in every 2 feet. I put the screws into the brick mortar as drilling into the brick isn't easy. Your 6 feet pieces would work. I would recommend attaching them on a warm day as the aluminum will expand and contract with the temperature.
  7. http://www.flickr.com/photos/94341905@N03/sets/72157633080187981/ Here is the link to the pictures. Sorry this took so long! Anywhere there is brick, the CCRs are mounted to aluminum flat bar. The other areas of the house the CCR is directly mounted to the aluminum fascia with the glazing tape. So far haven't had any of the CCRs come off. As you can see from the overall picture of the house the CCRs are hard to see especially from the street.
  8. Glazing tape link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SZ3RES/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  9. About 6 months or so I asked the community the best way to mount CCRs on houses. Many of the responses I got referenced PVC and J-channel. I was looking for a permanent solution that I wouldn't have to disassemble each year and that would look nice during the day. Long story short I came upon glazing tape. It is a double sided tape. It is waterproof and comes in black or white; it costs about 12$ for a 100 ft roll. My house is white so I used the white tape. It works great. I have 11 CCRs on my house and not one has come unattached in the last 4 months. They have been through rain, snow, freezing temperatures, heavy winds over 60mph. One item to note is that it won't stick on abrasive surfaces such as brick. My house having a brick front was an issue for this reason, for some corners of the house. I solved this issue by putting up aluminum flat bar along the brick. This sells for about 5-6$ for a 12 feet section from a metal supply store. I use flat bar that is a little narrower than the CCR so you can't see the aluminum. The glazing tape adheres nicely to the aluminum base.
  10. Don, i tried your suggestion and it worked but it only makes a white background.... any other tricks to be able to do the same with a color?
  11. Don, I'll give it a shot. Brian, i've seen demoes of a "black" spotlight moving across a CCR grid that is all on. I think that was done with superstar? Or was that done with the scene function?
  12. I've been using superstar for a few months now and really like it. I was wondering if there was a way to specify a background other than black (off). All of my superstar sequences seem to generate with a black background. What I'd like to do is have some have a white background or some other color background. I've tried playing around with the "background" tool in the sequence editor with "fill" and it just seems to smudge all the channels together. Is there any way to just change the background in superstar before it sequences the sequence? If i could do this I think it would help alot. I've gotten some comments that my displays have alot of dead time or off time and if I could have an "on" background it would really make the display so much more vibrant. Changing this manually seems alot of needless work. Quad
  13. I used VU wizard successfully. In fact it worked great! Only took me a few minutes to do a whole song and it totally looked like a graphic equalizer when i was done.
  14. They are just standard white incandescent mini lights. I have the advanced license, so I'll try the vu wizard. Thanks for your help!
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