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  1. Santas Helper

    Light Type Where?

    Once you dabble, your hooked. Kinda like a serious drug. Prices won't be a high priority, divorce is acceptable and being late on bills are side affects. ?
  2. [Admin Edit - Note: There is now a video at the bottom of this post. Not the thread, this post.] In lieu of all the members I have assisted with setting up and configuring their pixie16 and the pixie2/4 and 8 controllers I am going to see if this will provide some relief to you the end user, myself someone who likes to help others and the LOR Help Desk who get a ton of requests at this time of year and the end user may not understand the volume of help tickets. Also more than a few recommended I write this up. So here it is. If you follow these steps in order you should have lights at the final step as long as your light strings or strips work. I am writing this as an S4 user. S5 users can follow the steps to a certain point. At which time you will have to have a basic understanding as to how to add a pixie device to your S5 sequencer. Things to consider: 1) The pixie16 and other pixie devices will only control "smart" RGB lights 2) Do not get wrapped around the Hardware Utility for anything more than setting the Unit ID, light color order and a minor test. The HU has nothing to do with the controller running the lights outside of the HU. Once you close the HU the rest is with you the end user to ensure the network is set up correctly and the device is added to your sequence. 3) The newer pixie controllers will have 8 dip switches. Please familiarize yourself with the location of the switches. From the factory one dip switch will be in the "on" position. This dip switch in the "On" position will not allow the user to set a Unit ID other than 1 4) The pixie series controllers will automatically assign the unit ID's after the user selects the first one. If you attempt to interfere with this process by manually building the unit ID's and not follow the Hexadecimal protocol you will have channels (units) that will not work. This is the time to start talking Units, the pixie series assigns unit ID's not channels like the AC controllers. You must remember this especially when you start adding other controllers or you will have conflicts. Example: If your pixie16 has a starting Unit ID of Unit 1 then the system will assign it to Units 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 0A, 0B, 0C, 0D, 0E, 0F and 10. As you can see the system uses an alpha numeric Unit ID after 09. This is consistent across the board. Any number that has a nine the following 7 unit ID's will be alpha numeric. Based on the pixie model you may have. Pixie2 - 2 consecutive unit ID's Pixie4 - 4 consecutive unit ID's Pixie8 - 8 consecutive unit ID's Pixie16 - 16 consecutive unit ID's Lets get started: Items required Pixie controller 2/4/8/16 can all be configured using these instructions. Black RS485 or Red RS485HS adapter (red preferred) red is backwards compatible and with the cost being a few dollars more than black - makes it worth while. A spare is always good Cat5 cable(s) Time - its best to start this only if you can dedicate an hour or so without interruption Of course a computer Lets get started- I am going to keep the steps as simple as possible 1) connect the RS485 (black) / RS485HS (Red) adapter to the computer - if you have not previously configured the adapter do so using the LOR provided instructions prior to continuing on 2) Inspect the pixie controller and look for those dip switches. As mentioned above the newer units have them. If yours does not have them you can skip the next step 3) If you are using the pixie controller as any unit ID other than Unit ID # 1 please turn off the dip switch that is currently on. All dip switches should be in the "off" position. If using as #1 you do have the option of leaving it on or turning it off thus enabling you to change the unit ID without forgetting this step later on when you add additional controllers. 4) Open the Control Panel - this will vary between users so I will not cover that. 5) Ensure the Comm Listener (CL) is running. You should see a CL on your task bar. 6) Connect only the pixie device being configured to the RS485 adapter. Remember one unit at a time is the best way to prevent issues while configuring any controllers. - Note if you disconnect the RS485 adapter from your computer you need to remember which USB port it was connected to. 7) In the HU on the left side you should see the comport that your computer found and assigned your RS485 adapter to. Refrain from refreshing this or using the "auto configure". 8 ) On the right side of the screen you can adjust the "max number of unit ID's" if it is set to far beyond your controller numbers it takes additional time searching the network. Optional 9) In the center of the HU there is a "Select Unit to Configure" button. Now is the time to press this and the HU will search for the controller. The light on the controller should be solid on. 10) Once the HU is finished you should see your device listed in the box directly under the heading. 11) It probably found 01- Pixie... and version number (unless the unit number has been changed to something else) it will show the appropriate Unit ID 12) If the Unit ID is not the Unit ID you wish to have assigned you change that in the bottom left of the HU - select "old Unit ID" and "new Unit ID" then "Change Unit ID" you will see the message "Unit ID has been set to..." 13) Now to check the color order of your light strings (if you have them) if not you can refer back to this step once you have your light strings or strips. 14) At the bottom of the HU screen you will see a "Config" button - select that 15) Towards the bottom center you will see "CCR/ Pixie device" - select that. 16) Select the ribbon/ string model number 17) Select the color order - if known, you will test and be able to change this in a couple more steps. Note different mfg color order may vary. Its best to not mix and match because with pixie device you cannot change the color order of different Unit ID's. Triples RGB. RGB, RGB is also in this step. 18) Select the number of pixels per string 50 / 100 16) Resolution - I have never changed the resolution from the default 17) Apply and then you will receive the "changes have been applied" box. 18) Back to the HU main page for color testing. Its pretty self explanatory so I will not cover it. If you select a color and the color is different ie; you select Red and the color is Blue this is where you can go back to the config/ CCR/ pixie config above and change the color order. 19) Note - If you selected 100 pixels in step 18 above but you only have strings of 5o, during testing there will be delays while the controller is attempting to light pixels that do not exist 20) Once you are happy with the color order you are finished in the HU. Close it out but leave the controller connected. 21) I ALWAYS perform this test while assisting others - reopen the HU and select the "Select Unit to configure" "Refresh" button again. This is to ensure you did not miss a step or forget to turn the dip switch to the "off" position if needed. (I recommend you turn it off) 22) Once you have verified that the HU found your correctly assigned Unit ID you can now close the HU. 23) Now we will set up your Network Configuration 24) In the Control Panel drop down list ( just under the HU) you will find Network Preferences (NP) click on it to open 25) If you have never opened this before on the right side of the box you will see "simple mode". 26) You want to press the "Advanced" button just under the "Simple Mode" 27) The next box should resemble a spreadsheet (green and white rows) 28) You will have 3 tabs LOR/ DMX and Misc. We are keeping it simple and not discussing either of the DMX or Misc tabs. 29) Select the LOR tab 30) You will now see your networks. Most users probably have only one network 31) You should see LOR Regular and under that the various Aux network 32) We are concentrating on the Regular LOR network 33) You will see the speed. By default it probably shows 57.6 kbps - click on the speed- you will now get a small pop up window. Use the drop down to select 500K 34) In the same box you will see an "enhance" box- click that - it is crucial you do not miss steps 33 and 34. If you do this you will not have lights 35) Click "ok or apply" 36) you will get the 500K warning, do not worry about it 37) you will receive the "enhanced" warning. once again disregard 38) Select the "OK" button on top right of the scree and NP will close - you are now almost ready to have lights on 39) Setting up your pixie in your sequence - this is where S5 users should refer to the S5 manual. I do know there are two methods to add a device to S5. One is through "Prop Definition" the other is in the "Preview Editor" the latter found on the right side of the screen. That is my knowledge. 40) Back to S4 users 41) Open an existing sequence "if you have previously used SE and have a controller configured" 42) If you do not have a sequence and are brand new 43) Open Sequence Editor from the Control Panel or your Programs menu 44) Select "File" 45) Select "New" 46) Select "Musical Sequence" 47) Now is a good time to remind you that although it is not mandatory it is best to keep your "Audio and Sequence" files in the correct LOR directory. My Documents/ Light O Rama/ Audio (for music and Sequences for Sequences. 48) Select the audio file - just select the first one since this sequence will be scrapped later (unless you plan on using this song to create your first sequence) 49) SE will process the audio 50) You will now get a "New Musical Sequence Option" box 51) On this first attempt I just ensure that in the bottom right corner under the " Initial Timing" box that "use a fixed timing grid" is selected. All other defaults are good at this point. 52) Press the "Ok" button 53) Your sequence working grid will appear 54) If using the defaults in the previous steps you should see 8 Channel buttons on the right side of the grid. (if you are new) If you are familiar with SE and have controllers already built into your config skip the following steps and pick back up on the add device step 55) If new and do not have any other controllers then perform the following 2 steps 56) Right click on the bottom channel button , it may say port or channel 8 57) in the drop down select "remove channel from track" 58) A warning will appear asking if you are sure - select "yes" 59) That channel will now be removed from the working grid leaving you 7 more, repeat steps 56-58 until you have only one channel remaining 60) Right click on the remaining channel 61) On the drop down you will select "insert device" 62) in this tutorial you will select "below" if you are a previous user having a configuration you may wish to select "above" but I recommend "below" for you as well 63) You have the option to "Name" your device. If you know what you are using the Pixie for it is recommended to name it. Example: CCR Tre 62) To prevent clutter I ensure that the box directly below is Not checked. "Include Base Unit ID's" 63) "Device" if the pixie 2/4/8/16 is not in the box use the drop down to select that device group *** At the moment if using the Pixie16 for anything over 100 pixels at step # 63 select Pixcon16 instead and at step 66 select 170 for pixels per port. Light O Rama will be updating the manual and the firmware in the near future. 64) Ensure "Add as a group" is selected. Once again to declutter the Unit list 65) The next box should say Pixie 2/4/8/ 16 - use the drop down menu to select your particular model number 66) "Pixels per Port" once again 50 or 100 67) "Channel Mode" Triples RGB, RGB, RGB 68) "Base Unit ID" this must be the same unit ID that you assigned in the HU setup process 69) "Network" for most users this will be "regular" if you have additional networks you know who you are and what to select. This must match the network that you assigned in the Network Preference (NP) steps 70) Select "OK" and now you will see your pixie on your sequence working grid 71) If you were one of the members that deleted the 7 channel buttons in the previous steps now is the time to remove the last channel button. Leaving only your pixie device 72) If you followed all of the above steps you WILL have lights as long as 1- you physically have lights and 2- the lights are not broken 3- lights are connected to your controller 73) Testing you lights 74) On the open sequence - if you "grouped" the pixie as described above you will see a "+" sign 75) Select that and you will see 16 channel/ unit ID buttons 76) The buttons will be grey and to the right your working grid will be black 77) We are now going to write your test sequence 78) On the right side of the SE "tool bar" you will see a yellow star 79) To the left of the yellow star as you put your mouse over the different tools you will find the "color fade" tool select that 80) A pop up box will appear it will have a fade from red to green. This is the tool you use to place colors to your RGB sequences if you use SE to create your RGB sequences. In order to have solid colors just select the same color on both ends 81) For this tutorial you will leave it as is Red to green 82) I am going to show you how "I" use this tool for testing. IMO this is the fastest way to fill the entire sequence and will teach you haw to use the copy/ paste fast feature 83) Use the scroll bar directly under the working grid and drag it all of the way to the end (right) of your sequence. 84) Place your mouse on the top "black row" probably pixie... port 1" 85) Right click in the last grid box and drag it all of the way to the left (beginning) of the sequence. Note- to make it faster you can drag it all of the way to the edge of your computer screen. You do not need to stay within the working grid. Before you release the mouse you can also drag it all of the way to port that corresponds to your pixie model. Thus filling the entire pixie working grid with color. I will discuss the copy paste method next. 86) Because you scrolled to the end and dragged to the beginning your color fade will be green to red 87) If you only filled in one row the fastest way IMO to copy paste that row (s) is right click on the first grid square- select row (s), that entire row will now be encapsulated in a white box. Now right click in that box. "copy". To paste - place your mouse in the next Unit/ Channel/ Port and right click - you have the option to select "paste or paste multiple" select the one that coincides with your situation. If you selected the "multiple" you will be given another option "Vertical" (top half of the box) or "Horizontal" (bottom of the box) In this instance you will select the bottom choice and fill the correct number based on how many ports you wish to paste to. Once you press ok it will perform the action and your entire pixie device "should" have a sequence filled within. 88) Once you have the sequence filled and your lights connected. Go to the "play" tab on the tool bar. At a minimum ensure "Control Lights" is checked. Your light WILL NOT work if this is not checked. 89) Also under "play" scroll down to "Play Range" and ensure "Entire Sequence" is checked 90) On the tool bar you will see a "Blue Arrow" your "color Fade" tool is probably still open. Push the blue arrow and it will turn off the color fade tool. If you forget to turn that off, anytime you put the mouse and click it on the working grid it will place either a color or grey fill. (that's something to always remember) 91) Now push the "Green" play button. If all was performed correctly you WILL HAVE LIGHTS. 92) For those of you that do not have lights and wish to test your controller - refer to the Visualizer tutorial in the "Help" guide in the Control Panel drop down menu. Or feel free to PM me and I will send you a CCR tree viz file to help you test your light. I probably have one that is already set up for almost every pixie config within unit ID 50. If I don't have one it only takes me a few minutes to create one for you. Best of luck and if you need further assistance feel free to submit a Help Desk ticket or PM me. Note from Sept - January I am very busy with my show and helping others but I will reply. Happy Lighting JR ---
  3. jerry72

    LOR Forums *Member Down*

    I would like to ask a favor of all my friends here. Halloween is my wife's favorite holiday. With be not being able to do her show this year, I would like to try and make her feel a little special. Would any of you be willing to send my wife a Halloween card? Thank you. Raenee Thompson Po box 568 Siletz OR 97380
  4. ItsMeBobO

    Help settling an argument

    Orville made a 'one word post' !!!
  5. I personally created this mixture of this audio and it is about a 4 and a half minute mix. It is a mixture of a bunch of songs and movie clip audio. Sharing now. NO SELLING This is free for everyone to use. Feel free to adjust it to your display as needed. Feel free to re-share any added parts. But please give credit where credit is due. Audio link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MH0Mc3vGSPAcCXiAGdUfFpzvgwvC5LCm/view?usp=sharing LMS link (contains 64 ac channels, 4 pixel arches, 8 rgb mini trees, 5 channel ac arches, and dumb node mega tree) Last 16 ac channels are neighbors house on a single 16 channel controller https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Qn9qlivL49IixqMEvN6OemtJ-iXPHz2S/view?usp=sharing
  6. Mr. P

    ***WARNING***

    ***WARNING*** For those of you who are running S4 and wanting to change to S5, do yourself a favor and wait until after this Holiday season. S5 has a large learning curve and most of you will have issues and many questions so why take the chance of screwing up this years show. Stick with something you know and when the Holidays are over you can switch and have a year to learn S5. It is three weeks until lights on and there are lots of posts starting "I just switched to S5," so you must ask yourself "why," why switch so late in the game? So do yourself, the Forums and the Help Desk a favor and stick with what you know until January. Remeber KISS, Keep It Simple Stupid and don't make it harder on yourself.
  7. Mr. P

    General info for new lighters

    I was a new lighter years ago and knowing where I could find information would have been a big help. There is a ton of info on this site but these will get you started. LOR store - http://store.lightorama.com/ LOR license comparison - http://www1.lightorama.com/sequencing-suite-levels/ LOR software download - http://www1.lightorama.com/sequencing-software-download/ LOR equipment manuals - http://www1.lightorama.com/documentation/ LOR Firmware updates - http://www1.lightorama.com/firmware-updates/ LOR network speeds - http://www1.lightorama.com/network-speeds/ LOR tutorials - http://www1.lightorama.com/tutorials/ LOR Help Desk - http://helpdesk.lightorama.com/
  8. saxon

    Looking for THX Intro

    I have this version if anyone is interested
  9. Mega Arch

    strobe light strings?

    Have not compared side by side yet, but my 11 year old niece said “Uncle Daniel, those hurt my eyes!” I replied, “PERFECT!” ?
  10. jerry72

    LOR Forums *Member Down*

    Have not updated this in awhile. Thank you to anyone who sent cards, it brightened her day a lot. Even the kids got a kick from seeing the cards. She got a 50 cards. So I am home, still in a wheel chair. Start PT next week. Hoping to be walking by Christmas. Speaking of Christmas, we were planning to be dark this year, but we are going to try to put a small display, just th e mega tree, signing faces, window and fence line.
  11. Mr. P

    Successful Halloween

    I had nine kids cry and was told off by one parent, overall a successful Halloween. 😁
  12. So it all went off without a hitch and we got to scare the heck out of a bunch of people with our hidden e-firecracker fuse box. normally every year we put it on a pole but we wanted to have people not know it was there this year so we put it underneath the animated Ouija board table and hook strobe lights all around so when I triggered it with the switch it would blind people lol. our neighbor sat out here with a clicker and counted each trick-or-treater that got candy for a total of 486. On the bright side the president of rhoa hung out and cranked his stereo up and said didn't care if anybody in the HOA was pissed or not. He had a blast and was already talking to us about planning a huge neighborhood block party next Halloween. Needless to say he had a great experience and so did everybody else who came out. had to wait until around 9 or so to get video as we were just too swamped before that. This neighborhood was so popular this year we even had police walking the neighborhood to keep everybody safe. considering there's only a hundred and forty four houses in this development that was a huge Plus. it didn't help that people kept telling us that we were in the newspaper and we didn't even know it. not to mention the fire department even made several trips out here to enjoy the light show. The first video was my kids first sequence they programmed. They took that on over the summer and I'm very proud of what they did. I added all the RGB elements but we realized their standard AC channels of the sequence timing they did was just a hair off for some reason but not bad for their first attempt at sequencing for the Halloween theme song. The second video is of zombie bad wolves that I programmed using @dibblejr face sequence. Next up is the second part of the walkthrough focusing more on the lighting aspect. And of course we had 98% of Halloween stuff taken down last night by 11:30 p.m. so we can start on the Christmas display today. Now it's crunch time LOL
  13. ItsMeBobO

    Forum Jargon

    This may need some content editing to better convey the meaning for beginners.
  14. Mr. P

    details, details, details

    First, all new lighters should first fill in their profile as this information is very important in helping us answer your questions. Your software version and license level is one of the most important pieces of information needed as they can dictate what you can and can't do. This little piece of information can solve 50% of the questions asked in the forum. Second, when asking for help please give as much detail as possible. Type of controller, type of pixels/lights, number of pixels, voltage, network, distances and anything else possible, it's all important and can affect what is going on with your setup. Third, the Holiday season is going to start ramping up soon and this forum is going to get very busy. You won't see the veterans around as much as they will be busy setting up their own displays. The new lighters will seem like they are coming out of the wood work so the more info you can give us the faster we can help you solve your problem. Remember, there is no such thing as a stupid question, if you don't know or are not sure then ask. I have been doing this for six years, (a newbie considered by others in here ?) and I consider myself pretty proficient but I still have questions and I ask in here all the time. The bottom line is help us help you, the devil is in the details.
  15. Mr. P

    Help settling an argument

    My wife works for the CDC in Atlanta and every year they are instructed that they can't wear Christmas type clothing or even wish anyone a Merry Christmas at work because it offends people. I went to pick my wife up from work one time last year and my car has one of those magnetic ribbons on the back that says "Merry Christmas" and some lady told me I had to take it off my car. I told her that I didn't work there and to stop being a Grinch, but I bet she is the first person to submit her Christmas leave.
  16. Shadow62672

    Help settling an argument

    People will be offended because it represents Christmas. "Just let it go" and do what makes you happy.
  17. Another year of building frames is winding down as we will have to stop building in Oct. so that we can start pulling all of our stuff from storage and fix things that stopped working in storage. It never fails. First off, this is a hobby for me and if you think I’m making a lot of money, I got news for you, I’m not. I could make more money flipping burgers. I JUST LOVE MAKING FRAMES and helping you put smiles on people’s faces. I have a friend that comes over when I need him to help with clean up. There are a few things that everyone needs to understand about the process of ordering a frame or frames from builders that build custom frames. On my website I have pictures of frames that I maintain templates for. If you order any of them, you can expect to receive one that looks just like the picture. If you want any changes to any of the stock frames, you must make sure that I understand just what you want. Just you saying “I’m thinking about” will not get the changes made. You must say I want these changed or added. If you want to order a special frame then you must send me a picture of what you want. If you make a drawing of what you want, please remember that anything that doesn’t look right might look really bad after I blow it up to size. I always take a picture of the drawing of a custom frame and will send it to you to look at and verify that it’s going to work for you. DON’T just glance at the picture and call it good. This is what your frame is going to look like. PLEASE, don’t wait until I have the pieces bent and tack welded together to say something. I try to always send a picture of the frame after I have it tacked together. As far as placing orders, I cut off taking orders somewhere between 80 to 100 frames ordered for the year. I need to have all frames made and shipped by the middle of Oct for the year ordered. Right now I have orders for next year already. It takes an average of 2 to 3 days to cut, bend and weld an average frame. It will be another day for cleanup and take to the powder coater. The powder coater requires at least a week to work my stuff in. Of course some frames will take less time than others. I have about 41 weeks to get everything made and I normally work a 44 hour week. The bottom line is it takes a team to get this done and you are the other part of the team. I can’t read minds, so please, please make sure that I fully understand what you want. As far as paying for the orders, I will not start working on a frame until I have the money in hand. If you need to make payments, I will let you make them with half down. When I know I will start building your frames in a couple of weeks I will let you know so that you can send the rest of the money. I will always figure the shipping cost after I have all of your frames made as the shipping charges change and I don’t have any control over that. I always try to make the frames in such a way to keep the shipping charges down. The key is to commutate, commutate, commutate.
  18. idahocampers

    Extension Cord Routing ideas

    The picture on the right was my first year the one on the left is after that!
  19. caniac

    Extension Cord Routing ideas

    If you keep it simple you miss out on an opportunity to use some first class profanity!!
  20. Jaynee

    Extension Cord Routing ideas

    We let our extension cords grow wild. You all would be horrified if you saw them. Green cords, white cords, orange cords, red/white cords. All running willy-nilly all over the yard like a web built by a spider doing coke. The only cords we have labeled are the ones that are directly connected from a prop to the controller.
  21. james morris

    Happy Easter

    Happy Easter To All
  22. Santas Helper

    RGB Floods -- what do you do with them?

    Well... since you asked... Mega tree and mega arch, pointing towards the audience.
  23. k6ccc

    You know you're addicted when...

    Slacker... The neighbors have a standing request for the entire season. The LOR show player and /or MIIP sends an E-Mail or text when the show starts, transitions, and ends. Added an internet accessible camera on the neighbor’s porch across the street so I can watch the show live any time I want. Using remote access software, I can remote into the show computer from anywhere to see what it’s doing or change the show on the fly (MIIP allows that too).
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