Jump to content
Light-O-Rama Forums

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Today
  2. Why make it more complicated than needed? Here is a good read for you as far as setting up the pixie series controllers. Your pixie 16 can be set to unit 1 and your pixie 8 to unit 11. That would make your next available unit ID 19. The pixie series do not use the standard numerical system while assigning unit ID's. Also,my pixie controllers have seen +100 temps and run many hours a day without a fan. My pixie16 and 8 combo does have vents but none of my other pixies have any vents. Have not had a failure. Also I recommend using the control panel to set the unit ID's. The main reason, if you ever need to change them you do not need to open the enclosure. Its all explained in my writeup or video attached to the writeup. JR
  3. Okay,so an answer to my own question. It does cause a problem during playback. It doesn't show the duplicates only the first one that shows in the grid shows up. But I worked it out, i had to select "Same Channel as" and then select the one that considers the 'master' prop. It may not be the first in the list alphabetically.
  4. the back story. Just light strands, not pixels and converted from S4 to S5. I had done work in Visualizer to create an image of my yard. One thing i did was to create multiple 'props' for lights that were on the same circuit. For example, i have 4 windows that were on the same circuit, so i created 4 objects, and assigned them all to the same unit and channel. After conversion to S5, the image looks good and it seems to animate correctly. But in the channel grid it shows on of them, the first which is fine. But in the preview warnings tab, for every prop i created this way, i get this error, "has an invalid master prop". I don't see any way to assign a master prop to get rid of the error.
  5. Yesterday
  6. The forum worked just as planned... the support from the forum made me comfortable I was doing the right thing and your explanation also explains why restarting everything got it working. I managed to get everything else working as expected so far, being new to S5, still learning the tricks there i suspectI am one of few in a 100 mile radius that had a Christmas tree up in their office on Easter (I made a stand so i could test it indoors).
  7. Phil, Thanks for your thoughtful feedback - it is much appreciated. We design the dialogs and menus so that they are displayed correctly on a standard laptop screen (1366x768 pixels). If you right-click on the sequence grid in the S4 Sequence Editor, the menu overflows the screen on such a laptop. That is why the timing commands were moved down a level in S5. We will look at ways to perhaps make that configurable in a future version. Matt
  8. I am using the box that came with the Pixie16 below. Also using the 500 watt power supply that came with it. Remounted it with a 350 watt power supply that is powering the Pixie 8. It is vented in the back and thinking of putting a fan in the front door. This will be for a Fireworks display so temps could be in mid to upper 90's. It will only need to run for a few hours, one time during the show. Also had room to mount a Gen3 mini Director at the bottom of the box. Plan is to have everything self-contained for the show with a timer to start the mini Director. Have the dip switch set on the Pixie 16 to start at 1 and the Pixie 8 to start at 17. Have not been able to test this yet. Finishing up on wiring
  9. As Mike said: Contact the Mfg. My 50 ct pixel strings are 3A (white). Rule of thumb: Size your PSU at 125% of expected load. You never want to be up against the wall, odd things happen and the life of the PSU can suffer.
  10. That's a great question that I'm just now researching tfritz28. Hope to find an answer here, but if no one responds, I'll ask the LOR Help Desk. They are good at responding to all the questions I've posed so far. This should be any different. What did you find out?
  11. It's going to be different for each mfgs string -- it's not a constant. A mfg could have used super high power LEDs on a string or they could have used very low power LEDs. For the correct number, you need to contact the mfg. A rule of thumb (that you should not rely on when sourcing power supplies, controllers, wires, etc) is slightly less than 4A for 100 pixels at 12V, slightly less than 4A for 50 pixels at 5V.
  12. Here are few ideas: 1) Check your display driver. If you are running Intel-based graphics, then you can try the Intel Driver and Support Assistant, which can sometimes locate newer drivers than are included with Windows. https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/detect.html This is the most likely cause. 2) If #1 doesn't help, then create a help desk ticket (http://helpdesk.lightorama.com/) and attach 2 files: a) the Sequencer's trace/log file: "\Documents\LORSequencer-trace.txt" b) the Preview file - there is a small possibility that something in your Preview file is causing a problem at startup: "\Documents\Light-O-Rama\CommonData\LORPreviews.xml" Matt
  13. can anyone tell how to test a 12v 2811 -50 count smart pixel node string to see how many amps it will draw. Seen a video on youtube but it was for dumb nodes not sure if it would apply to smart pixels thank you
  14. While we do monitor stuff here, we try to let the community jump in and help as much as possible. To be assured you get a response, go ahead and open a help desk ticket. We are here to help! FYI: MP3 directors (and some of our controllers) can miss the 'Hey you! Start Downloading Firmware!' command that the hardware utility sends. If after a several seconds you don't see any activity after pressing download (the sending/receiving/flushing stuff), power off the controller and then power it back on. One of the very first things the bootloader does while coming alive is listen to the data stream to see if there is some kind of firmware update being broadcast. That will usually get it moving.
  15. James, myself and the others started Halloween at Christmas time. With that said my sequencing has come to a halt for at least right now and I am considering no show this year. Only time will tell if I can put a headset back on. JR
  16. Last week
  17. I usually start in October checking things out and getting everything working before taking stuff to the house/yard for setup. I then get all of the high house stuff done around the first of November while it is somewhat still warm out and then work on stuff on the weekends until I then take the week before Thanksgiving off of work and get everything else put up. But the weather plays havoc with me part of the time. I have worked in the rain and even 1 time took the snow blower and cleaned the yard off so I do the yard setup from an early snow.
  18. The more that you can do in advance, the better. I did a major rebuild on my pixel tree last year. Took FAR more time than I expected. The result was that I did not have the pixel tree (the centerpiece of my show) up until the Monday before Thanksgiving and my Tune To pixel matrixes until four and a half hours before my opening night (the Friday after Thanksgiving). Two new props simply never got done at all.
  19. Pick a date. Then start about two weeks before that date as things are bound to go wrong. Ex: I picked Oct 15 to start last year. Well, it rained every friggin day it seemed like. Put me way behind and I never recovered. If I had started Oct 1 I think I would have been ok
  20. thanks, that is what i thought from the instructions but it wasn't working. One of the diagrams in the doc implied it might discover it. I shut everything down and tried again and this time it was successful. It also read the sequence I made with S5 and seems to be playing although it was a simple test sequence that just turned switches on and off. It isn't doing that at the moment. Hopefully, just another bump in the learning curve...
  21. You don't select the G3-MP3 as you would a controller - Open the HU - At the bottom of the HU window select firmware - Go to Step 1 and select MP3 Player radio button - Go to Step 2 and select the update file, location where you saved it on your computer - Go to Step 3 and press Download.
  22. Taken from http://www1.lightorama.com/Documents/G3-MP3_Man_Web.pdf Firmware Update: G3-MP3 This section describes how to update the G3-MP3 firmware for both the stand-alone unit and the unit built into the LOR1602MP3g3. You must have:  Hardware Utility version 2.3.4 or later, see the section Hardware Utility Version  No SD card in the G3-MP3  G3-MP3 should be displaying the time  The G3-MP3 powered (see the Power Input section) and connected to the PC via Net 1. Use a USB or serial adapter to connect the G3-MP3 to the PC. Do not use wireless. Get the latest firmware. www.lightorama.com ► Support ► Firmware. Note the name of the firmware file, G3-MP3-Vn_mm (n_mm is the version number) and save it on your PC in My Documents\Light-ORama\ Firmware. Start the LightORama Control Panel if it is not running by clicking start ► All Programs ► LightORama ► Light-O-Rama Control Panel. The Light-O-Rama light bulb icon will appear in the system tray on the lower right of your screen. Start the Hardware Utility by right-clicking the Light- O-Rama Control Panel light bulb and selecting Hardware Utility from the menu. Click the Firmware button in the LOR Control tab and you will see this window: In Step 3 – Press Download Button, click the Download button. The firmware download will start automatically. The Update progress bar will fill from left to right. When the new firmware is loaded, the Status will change to “Successful” and the G3-MP3 will reboot.
  23. Since I am new to the forum, would this be a question I should pose as a support ticket or do they reply here?
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...