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Aurora Core Controller does only ws28....... all

You can try the WS2811 (800 Khz) as some have had some luck while losing some options but technically the ws2815 is not supported.

Will WS2815 smart strips run on a Pixie controller? I don't see them listed in the documentation or on the drop-down menu in the Pixie config tab in the HU.

Another reason is security. A thief will be more attracted to large runs of copper cords that can be sold for scrap than specialized equipment that looks like sprinkler controls and would be difficult to sell.

Hi Orville, it was just a way of speaking. In the sense that the industrial technician was taught to place the cables squarely, the professor came to check with the drawing square whether they were perfectly at 90°.... the technician's foibles......;- ) anyway thanks for your sharing it's always useful

I never bend my wires at 90°, most have a gentle curve to them. When I did the 90° bend outside, I tended to get bad connections, broken internal wires, and sonetimes even the insulation would split. So now I use more of an upside-down U shape or a very slight bend to route the wire, extender cables or extension cords where it needs to go. Haven't had any issues using these methods outdoors in years. But, I am in very hot, sunny Florida, and the Florida sun is murder on outdoor wiring if it's bent too far. At least that's been my experience with exposed insulated wiring, extension cords, and extender cables outdoors. However, your results may differ depending on your climate conditions.

I see however, that I'm not the only one sick/crazy about these things. Obviously as a technician, the wires must be straight, the bends at 90°, otherwise we'll go crazy. ;-) Anyway, thanks for your shares. Greetings from Pierpaolo Ancona - Italy, very happy grandfather of three grandchildren.....yikes

Thanks !! I have always kept my channel count low on each port of my controllers previously. These new seed pixels will be a learning curve along with the upgrade in software.

Me too, and I've never had to clean mine either. But then I use that stuff very sparingly. I use a toothpick to put a small amount in my HC/XConnect female plug holes and work the male connector in/out a few times to to spread the dielectric grease. On 120VAC connections, I lightly coat the male prongs and work them in/out a few times to coat the female connection. Then on any unused female plugs[AC plugs/CTB16PC dangles] I use a plastic child protector outlet cap to keep dirt, water, and debris out. Did that to all my AC L.E.D. and Incandescent Christmas Light strings too. But since going RGB, I retired and gave away all my AC 120V powered light strings. Only 120V items currently in use are a few Blowmolds, those still use incandescent standard, or C7 light bulbs. Although considering converting them to RGB with a bit of modications.

I use dielectric grease on all my waterproof plugs. I've never had to clean the connections.

This is particularly true for higher voltage (think 120V AC) connections, but one easy and essentially free thing you can do is to zip tie the connector onto the top of a stake and cover with a cut off 2 liter soda bottle. With that said, I have never had much issue with water in so called waterproof pixel connectors. For my year round landscape lighting, everything is soldered and covered with two layers of heat shrink tubing (the kind with the goo inside that melts when you heat the tubing up to shrink it.

Acidic cleaners need to be neutralized or they will cause their own issues later. (whty they do NOT use Acid Core solder on electronics. It gets into places that are not easy to flush. The greas is a 2-edged sword. Yes, water is kept away, Yes, Dirt now sticks where you might not want it. I cap / plug the ends (HC/X-connect) while setting up/ down. They only come off while being mated. BTW check your O-rings and make sure the connector-collar seats fully so they can work

The funny thing about waterproofing is if water does eventually get in you are also preventing it from getting out or drying up.

I used to try and seal all my high voltage connections but too many times a bit of water would sneak in and get trapped. I gave up sealing connectors and let Mother Nature do her thing. Rain would pass through the connections and dry up on a sunny day. Do use common sense and don't let the connectors hang in a pool of water or put them in the path of an irrigation head. If you are determined to keep the water away from the connectors during the show season then use some dielectric grease (found in the Home Depot electrical department). It's a pain to wipe off during teardown but gets your job done.

Honestly, in all my years I've never had an issue with waterproofing. My stuff is out three months of the year, October to mid January, and my landscape stuff is out year round. The most important thing about plugs is to keep them off the ground. If they are off the ground then they won't sit in water and the the rain will pretty much drip off of them letting the basic waterproofing work. When the season is over wipe everything down and maybe a shot of WD40 before storing, no issues.

Good morning guys. A stupid question, what kind of maintenance do you do on the contacts of your waterproof plugs, to remove the oxide and anything else that may happen during the show period??? I use the cleaning spray for electrical contacts, then once sprayed, in past years I made passes up and down with the opposite male or female, let's say to scrape away the impurities. This year I'm experimenting with pipe cleaners for drink straws, for the larger holes, while for the small holes I'm using dental brushes, which seem too soft to do the "scraping". What do you say??? is it too much, is the spray enough, or do you use some other more effective method than mine??? Thanks again to everyone, greetings from Ancona Italy, from Pierpaolo, a happy grandfather.

Get in touch with Marcus Ledet. He is the king of fountains. He is on this page.

Agree with mount controller as close to prop as possible

The reason for close to prop is 2 fold: 1 Voltage drop (low voltage types) 2 Signal degrades over distance (smart nodes) to first node. Each later nod regenerates the data stream (it might no be 100%, but good enough)

Thank you Mr P and thanks for your service. I'll do this

Controllers should be placed as close to the props as possible. It is much easier and cost effective to run one cat5 from controller to controller then 10 miles of wire because all the controllers are centrally located.

Does anyone have a good way to setup my system? I want to create a light set that is similar to LOR standard light (see attached) with the same equipment. I would like to have all of the controllers and computer in one location. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to do this and where to locate the equipment? 1. Mount the controllers on a board in a "footlocker" type box 2. Where to locate the box or whatever final equipment set up is

You would be far better off asking him what pumps and servos he is using. As far as controlling them, LOR has a board called a ServoDog that is specifically made for controlling servos. I've used servos so can't help on setting them up, but there are others here who have. For the pumps, LOR has a couple low voltage DC controllers. Depending on the pumps, you may need to use the controller to drive a relay and have the relay control power to the pumps. That would limit each pump to on / off as opposed to variable. And TheDucks beat me to some of this...

I don't think the version matters. Servos are controlled with. https://store.lightorama.com/products/servodog You can download the manuals from the LOR site for reference. Lights could be controlled by dumb: CMB 24 (there is a flood package, but they are only rain proof (you can control up to 24 relays, ungroup the RGB port setting) Smart: Pixies, and a whole bunch more

First, thank you for letting me join this forum. I am looking to build a small musical fountain in my backyard which would consist of 8 servo operated nozzles (controlling the direction of the spray) and 32 fixed jets (shooters). I came across this idea and LOR by watching videos produced by Grant’s Fountain Channel on YouTube. His latest “version 6” fountain project utilizes DC motor water pumps, previous versions utilized AC fountain pumps. my questions: What DC pumps is he using for Version 6? What hardware is he using to control them? many thanks! Tony