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S. Buckley

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I agree that a beginner may want to stick with the LOR products. The biggest benefit is the warranty, however, if you cut the ribbons it voids the warranty.

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If you go with Dumb (RGB or Single color) , your license is good for up to 4 controllers (AC or DC),

I have 3 channels of White LEDS in candy canes, on 1 (CMB-24D) RGB connector (which is really 3 channels). I also use some of the other connectors with real RGB strips / strings

12V just means longer strings before worrying about power injection

 

?I thought a Starter package had to include a controller (of some type)

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2 minutes ago, TheDucks said:

If you go with Dumb (RGB or Single color) , your license is good for up to 4 controllers (AC or DC),

I have 3 channels of White LEDS in candy canes, on 1 (CMB-24D) RGB connector (which is really 3 channels). I also use some of the other connectors with real RGB strips / strings

12V just means longer strings before worrying about power injection

 

?I thought a Starter package had to include a controller (of some type)

That's how I read it when he said "showtime central starter package". But then he said "no controller" so confused me, had to edit my posts. LOL

It then got me thinking "no" dumb or smart pixel cotroller. IDK

JR

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Let's do some clarification, for everyone.

http://prntscr.com/f8jfy4 It sounds like this was what you bought, OP, correct? If so, then this is what you get:

http://prntscr.com/f8jgp7 The "Base Package" includes a single 16 channel controller.

To make things easier for everyone, I've broken the language down to simple words. A standard controller is a NON-RGB controller. It can run traditional lights only. (LED or incandescent)
This package you bought is a standard controller - it can only operate traditional lights.

You can buy other controller types as well though. You can buy dumb or smart RGB controllers.

DUMB RGB CONTROLLERS: control the whole RGB strip at once - one color for the whole strip at a time.
SMART RGB CONTROLLERS: control each PIXEL of the RGB strip...individually.

There are other products that fall in the RGB category, but thinking of the RGB strips for right now is a good way to have a working understanding of the difference. Each RGB product is different, thus having different abilities to be chained together. DUMB RGB Strips, for instance, have two different options:

1) Put two full-length strips together and run the power cord (under 50 FEET) without experiencing any drop in power.

2) One full-length strip run with up to 100 FEET of power cord without running into a power issue. There ARE ways to fix power issues, though. This is a bit more advanced, however.

To add these controllers to your show, you buy them from a vendor and DAISY CHAIN them to each other via an ethernet or ELL connection. Each controller needs to have it's own power and it's own connection to the chain.
The ORDER they are connected in doesn't matter, so long as each one is given the proper ID. (We can talk about this later.)

Does this make sense to everyone?

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1 hour ago, lightingnewb said:

Let's do some clarification, for everyone.

http://prntscr.com/f8jfy4 It sounds like this was what you bought, OP, correct? If so, then this is what you get:

http://prntscr.com/f8jgp7 The "Base Package" includes a single 16 channel controller.

To make things easier for everyone, I've broken the language down to simple words. A standard controller is a NON-RGB controller. It can run traditional lights only. (LED or incandescent)
This package you bought is a standard controller - it can only operate traditional lights.

You can buy other controller types as well though. You can buy dumb or smart RGB controllers.

DUMB RGB CONTROLLERS: control the whole RGB strip at once - one color for the whole strip at a time.
SMART RGB CONTROLLERS: control each PIXEL of the RGB strip...individually.

There are other products that fall in the RGB category, but thinking of the RGB strips for right now is a good way to have a working understanding of the difference. Each RGB product is different, thus having different abilities to be chained together. DUMB RGB Strips, for instance, have two different options:

1) Put two full-length strips together and run the power cord (under 50 FEET) without experiencing any drop in power.

2) One full-length strip run with up to 100 FEET of power cord without running into a power issue. There ARE ways to fix power issues, though. This is a bit more advanced, however.

To add these controllers to your show, you buy them from a vendor and DAISY CHAIN them to each other via an ethernet or ELL connection. Each controller needs to have it's own power and it's own connection to the chain.
The ORDER they are connected in doesn't matter, so long as each one is given the proper ID. (We can talk about this later.)

Does this make sense to everyone?

Actually your first link is incorrect. It provides a picture of just the mini mp3 player and FM transmitter. However if you would have posted the link to LOR which I did he would have received an AC 16 channel controller and S4 basic plus software.http://store.lightorama.com/shcestpa.html

Well he said "posted" two different comments. One, he said " no controller" and one he is looking into RGB.

You have made quite a few assumptions instead of awaiting his reply to your question of which system he purchased. Also we don't know if he purchased used or new which maybe he didn't receive any controller.

I am pretty sure those of us who replied are familiar with the difference.

Though, thanks for you clarification.

JR

Edited by dibblejr
changed FM coverter to transmitter
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http://store.lightorama.com/shce.html Here's the link... 

Also, sir, your response I found was a bit ... rude maybe? You could've worded it a bit better. The clarification between controller types was necessary to me, because there was a confusion on language, at least in my perspective.

If you noticed, I was looking for his response. AND, IF I was right, then it would have fallen into the category as I suggested. However, it left room for discussion and clarity on his end. The clarification I provided on language was a chance for me to understand what he was looking at so I could better assist.

I needed the separation of controllers and then the terminology for light types so I could be of better assistance.

But I'll "gladly" step out of the conversation... since I'm of no use apparently. Oh well, I'll go help someone else. No worries.

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Just a little misunderstanding in here. Typing words doesn't always convey what you are really trying to say and sometimes things are taken the wrong way.

Everyone's opinion in here counts as there is no one person who knows everything about evrything. I kind of consider myself an LOR expert (toot my own horn :D) but I have been corrected by others who know more about a specific matter, I am always learning.

Thanks for trying to clear things up lightingnewb and I am pretty sure that JR didn't mean to offend.

Edited by Mr. P
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2 hours ago, lightingnewb said:

http://store.lightorama.com/shce.html Here's the link... 

Also, sir, your response I found was a bit ... rude maybe? You could've worded it a bit better. The clarification between controller types was necessary to me, because there was a confusion on language, at least in my perspective.

If you noticed, I was looking for his response. AND, IF I was right, then it would have fallen into the category as I suggested. However, it left room for discussion and clarity on his end. The clarification I provided on language was a chance for me to understand what he was looking at so I could better assist.

I needed the separation of controllers and then the terminology for light types so I could be of better assistance.

But I'll "gladly" step out of the conversation... since I'm of no use apparently. Oh well, I'll go help someone else. No worries.

Yes, I meant no ill will or condescending words. Lord knows I dislike condescending comments towards others. I guess I took the "all of you" comment the same way you probably took my comment. Don't worry I don't wear my feelings on my sleeves.

I think the OP's responses have been very vaque.

I apologize and everyone's comments as stated above are helpful in their own ways. The OP just has to sort through them.

I try to help where I can.

JR

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Thanks for the clarification - I can see how we both could have taken it out of context. I apologize if I also came off as a dominant personality ... I'm not at all in such a place to be doing so.The knowledge I've shared and will continue to share has only been taught to me from people like you. People who are looking out for others. No hard feelings, it just put me off just a tad. Thanks for cleaning this up, I'm glad we could come to a happy conclusion. :)

I'm sure we all have a perspective to share.

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I am glad this worked out.

Hopefully the OP can clarify exactly what he has. OP, if you have a box with 18 cables coming out the bottom that is probably an AC controller. If you purchased the kit you mentioned (new from LOR) you should have received that controller. It is only for Incandescent (the non led lights ) and the regular LED strands. As Lightningnewb described.

JR

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Good morning everyone, sorry about the delayed response, I had to travel out of state for work. I did purchase the LOR new and this is what I have; http://store.lightorama.com/shcestpa.html. I also got the TSO SD card. I'm also sorry that some of you feel that my responses have been vague, however, I am very new to this and am trying to explain it the best way I know how. I want to start out with the DUMB RGB's as it sounds like it would the easiest for me to dabble in. I am looking to use LED's on my house, and will need to cut different sizes to fit different areas, as well as adding some lengths together, as some of the places I would like to use them are over 16' long. Where I am confused it how to do this, I know that I will need a separate controller in order to run the RGB's and each area (over 50') will need it's own power supply. And that is about all I know, I'm not sure how to use or what kind of controller that I will need, and how it all works together with the power supply and attaching it all to the LOR system. I'm in no way a tech guy, and am becoming more and more confused by trying to research it online. I hope that this clarifies things and kinda of gives you an idea of what I am looking for. If you need more clarifying questions, let me know. I also what to thank you all for taking the time to help me.   

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The easiest way to add dumb RGB is to use LORs CMB24D as it plugs directly into the LOR network. It will give you the possibilty run 8 different strings and is easy to assemble. You need to purchase the CMB24D from LORs store, an enclosure and a power supply. I am not sure if they still sell one already assembled but they are pretty easy to put together.

 

Edited by Mr. P
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3 hours ago, S. Buckley said:

Good morning everyone, sorry about the delayed response, I had to travel out of state for work. I did purchase the LOR new and this is what I have; http://store.lightorama.com/shcestpa.html. I also got the TSO SD card. I'm also sorry that some of you feel that my responses have been vague, however, I am very new to this and am trying to explain it the best way I know how. I want to start out with the DUMB RGB's as it sounds like it would the easiest for me to dabble in. I am looking to use LED's on my house, and will need to cut different sizes to fit different areas, as well as adding some lengths together, as some of the places I would like to use them are over 16' long. Where I am confused it how to do this, I know that I will need a separate controller in order to run the RGB's and each area (over 50') will need it's own power supply. And that is about all I know, I'm not sure how to use or what kind of controller that I will need, and how it all works together with the power supply and attaching it all to the LOR system. I'm in no way a tech guy, and am becoming more and more confused by trying to research it online. I hope that this clarifies things and kinda of gives you an idea of what I am looking for. If you need more clarifying questions, let me know. I also what to thank you all for taking the time to help me.   

++ Mr Ps answer

IMHO go with 12V strings because you can get longer LED runs before hitting the 4 AMP per RGB connector port limit. 32' is easy doable (you might squeeze more: Calculate the WHITE (all on) current. Since these are DUMB RGB, you can feed them in the middle, like "T" and reduce voltage drop artifacts.

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