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Pixie 16D


tbuff23

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22 minutes ago, dibblejr said:

I told you "first hand knowledge". And that is actually the best knowledge, not hearsay or third party. Actually experiencing it.

You asked and I replied.

In my and the others it was the only way it worked. Come on George we all cant be dummies. Bad batch whatever, it is what it is. No one whined or sniffled about it. We figured it out and moved on. Perhaps the member that wrote that in Nov received the info from LOR since he had at least 2 tickets submitted.

I only know that, his reply solved my problem and my passing that little advice on has solved others problems.

That's all I can tell you. I cant tell you who or where mfg'd the part, I could actually care less. I got my units working and only after finding that one little snippet inside a post.

Its been running since about mid Feb 24 hours a day without problems. It has been moved, unplugged, modified as I built the units from the card. No problems just as well with my cheapo pixels. Not a single problem.

JR

I didn't ask you any of that.  I asked if your info came from LOR.  A simple YES or NO would have been just fine.

I've been around here for about 8 years longer than you have.  That doesn't mean I know everything.  Far from it.  But it means I've seen plenty more than you have in this hobby.  And that definitely includes advice givers who give incorrect and/or bad advice.  Sometimes it's harmless - amusing, ridiculous or even absurd - and sometimes it's potentially dangerous or injurious to humans and/or equipment.  This is one of those times. 

Until someone who KNOWS differently comes along and informs me otherwise, I'll continue to call out recommendations for people to do things just the opposite of how they're supposed/intended/designed to be done.  Especially when it comes to electricity.  Seems easier and safer to just do it right.  If you don't know how, learn.  It's not rocket science - it's a simple mechanical connection using a part designed and engineered to be used in a specific way.  I'm not saying "your" way isn't effective.  What I'm saying is that it might not be safe.  Just because people choose to follow your advice doesn't mean it's a smart choice.

Anyone who has problems understanding how to correctly use there connectors, please contact me and I'll make sure you know how to do it correctly and safely.

Edited by George Simmons
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10 minutes ago, George Simmons said:

 

I didn't ask you any of that.  I asked if your info came from LOR.  A simple YES or NO would have been just fine.

I've been around here for about 8 years longer than you have.  That doesn't mean I know everything.  Far from it.  But it means I've seen plenty more than you have in this hobby.  And that definitely includes advice givers who give incorrect and/or bad advice.  Sometimes it's harmless - amusing, ridiculous or even absurd - and sometimes it's potentially dangerous or injurious to humans and/or equipment.  This is one of those times. 

Until someone who KNOWS differently comes along and informs me otherwise, I'll continue to call out recommendations for people to do things just the opposite of how they're supposed/intended/designed to be done.  Especially when it comes to electricity.  Seems easier and safer to just do it right.  If you don't know how, learn.  It's not rocket science - it's a simple mechanical connection using a part designed and engineered to be used in a specific way.  I'm not saying "your" way isn't effective.  What I'm saying is that it might not be safe.  Just because people choose to follow your advice doesn't mean it's a smart choice.

Anyone who has problems understanding how to correctly use there connectors, please contact me and I'll make sure you know how to do it correctly and safely.

George, last I knew "i do not owe you anything" if you'd like to take this personal attacks off line then send them through PM's. Last I knew this is a "community forum" where generosity, help and for the most part kindness should prevail.

Yes, you may have joined the LOR forums much longer than I have. Last I knew, I've only known you since I joined here, you know nothing and I reiterate nothing about me or my background. Yet you continue to attack those of us who wish to assist others, totally uncalled for.

Some of us pay for our stuff, receive it and do what it takes to make it work. I will continue to share my hands-on knowledge from my "experiences" when I can. You said "you do not have a pixie16". SInce you are a Beta Tester perhaps LOR can front you one or a hundred of them, but some of us buy everything we own.

~JR

 

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23 minutes ago, George Simmons said:

Okay, I'll ask.  Where is this coming from?  Did someone from LOR tell you this directly or is it from some other source?  I do not have a Pixie16 yet, but I have other LOR pixel controllers (Pixie 4 & 8, PixCon16) that use the exact same green pixel connectors and every single one of those works righty-tighty.

It's because he is insisting on putting on the connectors incorrectly.  For all the examples I cite, you are looking at the wiring side of the connector with the screws at the top.

I'm going to start by saying that there are a number of different designs for wire clamp connectors.  In some the wire goes above the movable clamp and in some it goes below, however in every one I have ever seen, when the wire is properly installed, the clamp is tightened by turning the screw clockwise.  In some designs where the wire goes below the clamp, there is no possibility of putting the wire above the clamp and in some designs there is that possibility.  For example, I'm looking at the connectors that goes on the adapter for a ServoDog for the inputs and outputs.  The movable clamp is at an angle and is fixed at the front end to the top of the slot.  The back end of the clamp is forced down by the screw.  I personally don't like that design because the screw does not pull the clamp back up with loosened - you generally have to insert a small probe into the the slot to force the clamp back up in order to insert another wire.

This photo is looking at the connector that is from SanDevices - which I understand is the same connector that comes with the Pixie controllers.  Looking at the wiring side of the connector with the screws at the top, the wire should go above the movable clamp.  The left and right connectors are fully tightened and the position to the left of the of the wire is fully loosened.  The one with the wire is properly inserted (other than being WAY too much insulation removed)

Connector-1.jpg

Same connector from a different angle:

Connector-2.jpg

 

  If you look carefully, if you will see that is no metal contact at the bottom of the left hand connector.  If you attempt to clamp the wire between the bottom of the slot and the movable clamp, you will be clamping the wire to the plastic and depending on the clamp for your electrical connection.  Just for grins, I inserted a wire below the clamp and tightened the screw by turning counter-clockwise.  The wire was held in place, but not tightly, and the screw backed out of the top of the connector rather than clamp tighter.

So the summary is that if you are putting the wire into a clamp such that you have to turn the screw counter-clockwise (or left if you prefer), you are likely putting it in wrong.

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Thanks Jim.  That post should be pinned to the top of a couple different forum categories here.

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All I can say is, mine work. Every one of them and not until I followed the aforementioned Nov 2016 post. Other threads where I shared that knowledge in some cases there were LOR staff in the thread and none of them stated anything, positive or negative.

Anyways mine is from first hand knowledge with 2 Pixie16's in my hands. Both purchased at the same time. Hey maybe someone can find out when the others purchased theirs, maybe it was a bad batch. Somewhere I read something about I think some European connectors working like this. But its all irrelevant because, mine are working. And I only pass along what my experiences are. I didn't contact LOR for it was the holiday season and I resolved the issue after reading for several hours.

Jim- yes the bottom plate draws up. I attempted to see if I could hold them down but there was no way. That was my observation as I screwed the screws counterclockwise.

BLUF- it worked and only worked this way. Wrong or right, it worked.

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Let me add this to the conversation

"some" terminal blocks use a rising block screw terminal to secure wires, thus the bottom section will move upward.

JR

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20 hours ago, dibblejr said:

George, last I knew "i do not owe you anything" if you'd like to take this personal attacks off line then send them through PM's. Last I knew this is a "community forum" where generosity, help and for the most part kindness should prevail.

Yes, you may have joined the LOR forums much longer than I have. Last I knew, I've only known you since I joined here, you know nothing and I reiterate nothing about me or my background. Yet you continue to attack those of us who wish to assist others, totally uncalled for.

Some of us pay for our stuff, receive it and do what it takes to make it work. I will continue to share my hands-on knowledge from my "experiences" when I can. You said "you do not have a pixie16". SInce you are a Beta Tester perhaps LOR can front you one or a hundred of them, but some of us buy everything we own.

~JR

 

In this case, George is right. I also use the same method he does and it works flawlessly. I use these type of connectors where I work and they ALWAYS pinch the wire towards the screw. I have yet to see one that works the other way. If I have questions, I find out from the supplier data sheets as to how they are to be used. The problems you had may have resulted from not enough wire stripped to go far enough into the connector. I always allow a quarter inch and trim if needed.

-Gary-

 

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We may use different suppliers, which may mean the screws may work in opposite directions.  I don't think there are 2 different types, but I suppose it COULD happen.  Rather than go back and forth just give it a test.  

I have multiple connectors from multiple different production runs of PixCon16s (and pixies).  All of them work this way:

Look at the inside of the connector and turn the screw.  The small metal plate will move one direction or the other.  At one end of travel, the screw will still be able to be turned.  It may be a little more difficult, but should still turn - or feel like it could.  That end is OPEN. Don't turn it too far in this position - it may be possible to force the end of the metal plate (actually it is a box) off the end of the screw. 

At the other end of travel, it will stop dead.  If you apply the same force as you did on the open end of travel, this side will not move.  That end is CLOSED.

Insert the wire when things are OPEN, move the screw in the direction of CLOSED until snug.

Too long or too short a strip length (there is NOT a lot of tolerance) will lead to issues.  No bare wire should extend out of the connector, nor should you be closing the clamp down on the insulation of the wire.  If you are looking for a professional installation, we recommend ferrules.  With a properly installed and crimped ferrule, you eliminate many of these issues.  

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9 minutes ago, DevMike said:

We may use different suppliers, which may mean the screws may work in opposite directions.  I don't think there are 2 different types, but I suppose it COULD happen.  Rather than go back and forth just give it a test.  

I have multiple connectors from multiple different production runs of PixCon16s (and pixies).  All of them work this way:

Look at the inside of the connector and turn the screw.  The small metal plate will move one direction or the other.  At one end of travel, the screw will still be able to be turned.  It may be a little more difficult, but should still turn - or feel like it could.  That end is OPEN. Don't turn it too far in this position - it may be possible to force the end of the metal plate (actually it is a box) off the end of the screw. 

At the other end of travel, it will stop dead.  If you apply the same force as you did on the open end of travel, this side will not move.  That end is CLOSED.

Insert the wire when things are OPEN, move the screw in the direction of CLOSED until snug.

Too long or too short a strip length (there is NOT a lot of tolerance) will lead to issues.  No bare wire should extend out of the connector, nor should you be closing the clamp down on the insulation of the wire.  If you are looking for a professional installation, we recommend ferrules.  With a properly installed and crimped ferrule, you eliminate many of these issues.  

Mike,

Exactly what I did. I could see the base however when I turned the screw clockwise nothing happened. No matter how much I turned. However when I turned the screw counter clockwise the base plate moved to sandwich the wire. As mentioned above I was not the first one to discover this. Perhaps the first run had these backwards tightening connections, who knows. Even with a magnifying glass I couldn't read the data on the side of the connector. I am just happy it worked after I read the post.

I believe you also replied to my problem thread when this happened. I followed the instruction online which for the most part is geared towards the pixie4 and 8, but its actually wiring 101.

Bottom line mine work, the real test will be when I get my matrix setup.

Thank you for the reply.

JR

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you normally unscrew to open the connector then insert wire and tighten down to secure wire.

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7 minutes ago, Dennis Laff said:

you normally unscrew to open the connector then insert wire and tighten down to secure wire.

Correct.  You must have missed most of the thread -- the issue here is 'which way is UNscrew'.  Some users are reporting that some connectors may have left-handed threads, meaning that 'Unscrew' isn't to the LEFT (CCW), it is to the RIGHT(CW).

So to determine which way is UNscrew, you can follow my instructions.  Now there is no doubt and no confusion as to which way is OPEN and which is CLOSED.

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This worked I up graded my license and assigned each port an ID worked like a charm.

Thanks for all the help. Now I need to figure how to import the sequence from pixel editor to

sequence editor. to get the most from my mega tree.

Again thanks.

 

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  • 6 months later...
On 4/2/2017 at 7:52 PM, default said:

This is correct. The OP will have to upgrade his license level. The OP could upgrade to an Advanced License, but will miss out on the Enhanced LOR Protocol and the ability to use Intensity files and Pixel Editor currently. I'd recommend the the OP upgrade to a PRO license that way they are covered for now and be will be available to use whatever tools that are due out with S5.

Depending on the level of sequencing, you can really push a lot of data to a Pixie16. If the OP has the 50 count LED strings, that is 2,400 channels. Personally I run 1 enhanced network per Pixie16 and lag is not an issue.

To the OP, it would be handy to know what version of software you are running, Basic Plus tells us your channel count but doesn't clue us in on other issue you may be facing. Right after the Pixie's came out there was a software update to ver 4.3.16 (I think) it was suppose to make it easier to add the Pixies to Sequence Editor, however it had a bug that didn't add them properly, LOR soon after released Ver 4.3.18 which DOES add the Pixies properly to SE. Make sure when/if you update your license you also update to the latest version of the LOR software.

When you assign a Unit ID to the Pixie16, remember you will be using 16 unit ID's. For instance if you were to assign the Pixie16 a Unit ID of 01, that would mean the first port (string) is Unit ID 01. Once the first Unit ID is assigned, each port from there on - the Unit ID will automatically increase by 1.

Example
Unit ID 1  = Port 1 (1rst string)
Unit ID 2  = Port 2 (2nd string)
Unit ID 3  = Port 3 (3rd string)
Unit ID 4  = Port 4 (4th string)
Unit ID 5  = Port 5 (5th string)
and so on until you reach Port 16 (16 string)

When you get to a point of adding the Pixie16 to Sequence Editor, this is an example of the way my Pixie16 is configured in SE. (note my first Unit ID is 9) Each string after the first is increased by 1 Unit ID #

pixie16%20id.png

If you wanted to make sure all your ports and lights work, download the latest version of software ver 4.3.18. Open the Hardware Editor and click the Pixel Console Button. Plug in all your strings to the Pixie16. Change the Unit ID # to the Port (string) you want to test. Move the sliders around to see the results on the ports (strings) with your LEDs.

** Oops after I wrote this I realized that I am using ver 4.3.18 Pro and these features are available to me, they *might not* be available to you until you upgrade. ** It may still work for you, I am not sure. Give it a try.

pic1.png

pic2.png

 

Hope all this makes sense.

Alan...

I'm having an issue with my show and I think it's because this issue.  I replaced my CMB16's with Pixie controllers (a Pixie4 and a Pixie8).  My pixie4 is Unit ID 02.  I have a CCR that is unit 03 and that is behaving exactly the same as the strip on the pixie4.  Are they behaving as the same Unit ID ??  If so, is the only solution to change the unit IDs?

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Yes, your Pixie4 will use 4 Unit Id's and your Pixie8 will use 8 Unit Id's for a total of 12. If you don't take this in account when adding new controllers (Pixies) it can mess you up. If you just made the change this year and still have older sequences mapped to your older Unit Id's, it might be easier to add the Pixies with Unit Id's after what you already have, then change the channel config in your updated sequences. Either way, I throw this out there every so often, it would be wise to document how your setup is, so that when you add new controllers or a years time goes by you have some way to tell what you did, and what the next Unit Id is. Here is a sample of what I do. It helps a lot down the road. I keep this pic in my LOR folder for ready reference.

Alan...

LOR%20Comm%20Ports3.png

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Just got finished changing all my Unit IDs.  What a PAIN!!!!!!  I wish they had made it a little more clear when purchasing the Pixie controllers how the unit IDs worked.....  Thanks for the tip and the screen shot.  My wife is an excel spread sheet on steroids and would love to make that and keep it up to date!  Hope you have a great holiday season and thanks for the help!!

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 4/2/2017 at 6:52 PM, default said:

This is correct. The OP will have to upgrade his license level. The OP could upgrade to an Advanced License, but will miss out on the Enhanced LOR Protocol and the ability to use Intensity files and Pixel Editor currently. I'd recommend the the OP upgrade to a PRO license that way they are covered for now and be will be available to use whatever tools that are due out with S5.

Depending on the level of sequencing, you can really push a lot of data to a Pixie16. If the OP has the 50 count LED strings, that is 2,400 channels. Personally I run 1 enhanced network per Pixie16 and lag is not an issue.

To the OP, it would be handy to know what version of software you are running, Basic Plus tells us your channel count but doesn't clue us in on other issue you may be facing. Right after the Pixie's came out there was a software update to ver 4.3.16 (I think) it was suppose to make it easier to add the Pixies to Sequence Editor, however it had a bug that didn't add them properly, LOR soon after released Ver 4.3.18 which DOES add the Pixies properly to SE. Make sure when/if you update your license you also update to the latest version of the LOR software.

When you assign a Unit ID to the Pixie16, remember you will be using 16 unit ID's. For instance if you were to assign the Pixie16 a Unit ID of 01, that would mean the first port (string) is Unit ID 01. Once the first Unit ID is assigned, each port from there on - the Unit ID will automatically increase by 1.

Example
Unit ID 1  = Port 1 (1rst string)
Unit ID 2  = Port 2 (2nd string)
Unit ID 3  = Port 3 (3rd string)
Unit ID 4  = Port 4 (4th string)
Unit ID 5  = Port 5 (5th string)
and so on until you reach Port 16 (16 string)

When you get to a point of adding the Pixie16 to Sequence Editor, this is an example of the way my Pixie16 is configured in SE. (note my first Unit ID is 9) Each string after the first is increased by 1 Unit ID #

pixie16%20id.png

If you wanted to make sure all your ports and lights work, download the latest version of software ver 4.3.18. Open the Hardware Editor and click the Pixel Console Button. Plug in all your strings to the Pixie16. Change the Unit ID # to the Port (string) you want to test. Move the sliders around to see the results on the ports (strings) with your LEDs.

** Oops after I wrote this I realized that I am using ver 4.3.18 Pro and these features are available to me, they *might not* be available to you until you upgrade. ** It may still work for you, I am not sure. Give it a try.

pic1.png

pic2.png

 

Hope all this makes sense.

Alan...

Do I need to use the 0A 0A etc? I numbered mine 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19. I upgraded my lic to pro but did not upgrade yet I am using 4.3.26. Thanks for the info.

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tbuff23 ~ your numbering system for a pixie16 will not work. You assign the first unit # when you set it up it asks you for the "beginning unit ID" if its 04 you select 04 and the system will set the rest "properly". If you set yours the way you describe above you will have 10 working channels. 

If you look at the drop down in any of the unit configs you will see how the numbering system works, when it gets to anything with a 9 the next will be the OA- 0F where applicable.

Just let the computer normally assign and when you set up your vis you will use those unit id's assigned. With the pixie there is no way around this.

Also if you are using any version of software prior to 4.3.18 your unit will not be recognized.

JR

Edited by dibblejr
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Yes.  The unit IDs for all LOR controllers are in hexadecimal.  For most things that’s not really an issue, but for the Pixie controllers which use multiple Unit IDs based on the first ID set, it MAY become obvious.  For example, if you set the first Unit ID of a Pixie 4 or Pixie 8 to 01, the additional IDs will be 02-04 or 02-08.  But it you set the first Unit ID to 08 for example, the additional IDs will run into the hexadecimal ID range.  Because a Pixie 16 uses 16 IDs, it will always have some of the IDs in the hexadecimal range.

 

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8 hours ago, dibblejr said:

tbuff23 ~ your numbering system for a pixie16 will not work. You assign the first unit # when you set it up it asks you for the "beginning unit ID" if its 04 you select 04 and the system will set the rest "properly". If you set yours the way you describe above you will have 10 working channels. 

If you look at the drop down in any of the unit configs you will see how the numbering system works, when it gets to anything with a 9 the next will be the OA- 0F where applicable.

Just let the computer normally assign and when you set up your vis you will use those unit id's assigned. With the pixie there is no way around this.

Also if you are using any version of software prior to 4.3.18 your unit will not be recognized.

JR

JR,

Ok then that is where I am going wrong I am #ing all the channels myself not letting the computer do it for me. I will update the software to ver 4.3.18

tonight.

Thanks 16 days till I start to put up my lights and I am starting to panic my mega tree is the hart and soul of my display. 

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On 10/13/2017 at 2:56 AM, default said:

Yes, your Pixie4 will use 4 Unit Id's and your Pixie8 will use 8 Unit Id's for a total of 12. If you don't take this in account when adding new controllers (Pixies) it can mess you up. If you just made the change this year and still have older sequences mapped to your older Unit Id's, it might be easier to add the Pixies with Unit Id's after what you already have, then change the channel config in your updated sequences. Either way, I throw this out there every so often, it would be wise to document how your setup is, so that when you add new controllers or a years time goes by you have some way to tell what you did, and what the next Unit Id is. Here is a sample of what I do. It helps a lot down the road. I keep this pic in my LOR folder for ready reference.

Alan...

LOR%20Comm%20Ports3.png

Alan and fellow LOR's,

Question. How and where do you add the 4 Unit Id's for the Pixie4? I am running the latest version of software with a CTB16 and two Pixie 4's. I hardwired into each of the Pixies and gave them each 1 (not the same). Fast forward to the Props inside the PE. I am trying to run 8 total CCR's (4 for each pixie controller). I have a hundreds or errors because each there are 4 CCR's fighting over the same Unit ID for each of the controllers. How do I assign each CCR a different Unit ID? Better yet how would the PIXIE controllers know what CCR to drive (since the each CCR would have its own ID and all of the ID's are different than what I programmed into my two PIXIE controllers)?

I have included some SS of my issues with hopes of getting this running.

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