toddm1919

Pixie4 Controller with 2811 Pixels

16 posts in this topic

I am trying to use Holidaycoro 12V 2811 pixels (https://www.holidaycoro.com/12mm-Pixel-Node-With-Waterproof-Connections-p/711-wp-blk.htm) with the Pixie4.  I am also using the Holidaycoro waterproof power supply (https://www.holidaycoro.com/Rainproof-400w-Power-Supply-p/48.htm) to power the controller and pixels.  The HU recognizes the controller, but I am unable to control the pixel strings via the pixel console.  Are their any special configuration settings I need to use to be the pixels to work?

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36 minutes ago, toddm1919 said:

I am trying to use Holidaycoro 12V 2811 pixels (https://www.holidaycoro.com/12mm-Pixel-Node-With-Waterproof-Connections-p/711-wp-blk.htm) with the Pixie4.  I am also using the Holidaycoro waterproof power supply (https://www.holidaycoro.com/Rainproof-400w-Power-Supply-p/48.htm) to power the controller and pixels.  The HU recognizes the controller, but I am unable to control the pixel strings via the pixel console.  Are their any special configuration settings I need to use to be the pixels to work?

I am new to the pixie and have 2 pixie16's. Did you do the test in HU? If you follow the manual in the LOR Support page you will get them to work pretty easy. The manual is geared for the 4 more than the 16  but I did get my boards to work.

JR

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I am not quite sure what you mean by "the test" in HU.  As I mentioned, I am able to connect to the Pixie4 and was able to change the ID so my computer can communicate with the controller.  When I go to the pixel console and attempt to control the lights, nothing happens.  The pixels from Holidaycoro are 3 wire.  If I understood the manual correctly, I should place the third wire in the DT slot and leave the CL slot empty. Is that correct?

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There is a reset/test button on the Pixie4, if you press it the lights will go through a test pattern if you have them connected correctly. If the test works then there is something wrong in your LOR configuration settings.

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Thanks Mr. P.  I hit the test button and nothing happens.  I guess I need to look at the connections to the pixels?

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WS2811 pixels are directional as the data can only flow in one direction. Make sure that you have the strings connected properly. If you take a magnifying glass and look at the pixels you will see an arrorrow on the pc board inside the pixel, this shows the data direction flow. You will also see which wire is the 12v, data and neg as they will be printed on the pixels board.

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yes, if the test button does not light the pixels up then more then likely the wiring to it is wrong. check direction and look closely at gnd,data and 12v wire to make sure it matches with board input

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Mr.p beat me by seconds!!! lol

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Posted (edited)

Just saw the post on data direction so I will check that, but I am having issues at the connection between the board and pixels.  The pins on the board are measuring at 12v, but when I use the supplied connector I get nothing.

IMG_0062.JPG.9f2e8227e235ed5bd4534085b8a49b5a.JPGIMG_0063.JPG.a0c9a06cf7cc0606b16048a0237dfa0f.JPG

Has anyone had issues with the connectors not "connecting"?

Edited by toddm1919

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2 hours ago, toddm1919 said:

Just saw the post on data direction so I will check that, but I am having issues at the connection between the board and pixels.  The pins on the board are measuring at 12v, but when I use the supplied connector I get nothing.

IMG_0062.JPG.9f2e8227e235ed5bd4534085b8a49b5a.JPGIMG_0063.JPG.a0c9a06cf7cc0606b16048a0237dfa0f.JPG

Has anyone had issues with the connectors not "connecting"?

What happens if you place a piece of wire in the connector? Also these connectors are backwards, meaning you screw the screws up instead of down. That was the problem I had. screw the screws all the way down, put the wire in and turn counter clockwise./

I searched and searched and I found and article that mentioned the screws turning up to tighten the wires up.

JR

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also note that the 'spring metal' pushes the wire against the powered contact. There might not be a good connection with the wire hole open.

Seeing your tools :), I will assume that you insured that insulation was not interfering

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Thanks JR. That was the problem.   I thought there was something weird when it wasn't righty tighty lefty loosey.  Glad to know I am not the only one that had that problem.  Live and learn.  

Thanks everyone.

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1 minute ago, toddm1919 said:

Thanks JR. That was the problem.   I thought there was something weird when it wasn't righty tighty lefty loosey.  Glad to know I am not the only one that had that problem.  Live and learn.  

Thanks everyone.

Yes, I was scratching my head. I have never seen anything like it. I spent hours trying different things. I had 7 strands out of 16 pass the test so I had to keep plugging and unplugging. Thought I had bad pixels, not enough bare wire, bad connection. I gave up and figured Id check for similar problems and stumbled across one post out of a million.

That should be one item to add to the manual.

Glad I could assist.

JR

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Ferrules help:

 

 

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20 hours ago, toddm1919 said:

Thanks JR. That was the problem.   I thought there was something weird when it wasn't righty tighty lefty loosey.  Glad to know I am not the only one that had that problem.  Live and learn.  

Thanks everyone.

Every one of the "euro" type connectors I have ever seen are righty tighty, lefty loosey.  If you are trying to install the wires so that is not the case, you are installing the wires wrong, and that is likely your problem.  The electrical contact is on the side of the connector on the opposite the screw.  The screw moves the clamp part towards the fixed contact.  I have seen people who screw the clamp part all the way down which leaves a nice gap to put the wire into on the screw side of the clamp.  Then when you screw the clamp back "up" it will sort of hold the wire, but it is not making contact with the electrical contact.  It's little hard to tell in your photo, but in the second photo that has the connector with the DVM probes connected it looks like the problem are on the screw side of the movable clamp.

 

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2 hours ago, k6ccc said:

Every one of the "euro" type connectors I have ever seen are righty tighty, lefty loosey.  If you are trying to install the wires so that is not the case, you are installing the wires wrong, and that is likely your problem.  The electrical contact is on the side of the connector on the opposite the screw.  The screw moves the clamp part towards the fixed contact.  I have seen people who screw the clamp part all the way down which leaves a nice gap to put the wire into on the screw side of the clamp.  Then when you screw the clamp back "up" it will sort of hold the wire, but it is not making contact with the electrical contact.  It's little hard to tell in your photo, but in the second photo that has the connector with the DVM probes connected it looks like the problem are on the screw side of the movable clamp.

 

Jim , the problem was solved by the opposite. Let in this case pulls the clamp up or however it works. I t solved mine and others in the past problem. Even in Japan for 9 years I never seen these types of connectors work backwards. Screw all the way down, insert wire and then screw all the way left (up) and problem solved. The norm righty tighty seemed to work at first and then the wires would slip out. And had 0 power so I decided to search and found thye are opposite, didn't have a problem since and can move everything without them pulling out.

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