Another Newbie

[philw]

Hi another newbie here !! Help please

This will be my first display with music and lights I am about to purchase  lor residential starter 16 channel and a 16 channel addon controller, I have worked out the music and sequences I want, but my main question is:

The controllers come with Australian plugs (oops forgot to mention I live in aussie land) can I just plug any xmas light into the controller, for example a have a lot of 12v rgb strip led lights but also a lot of string led lights that are run by a function controller (240v input, 31v output) can I just plug these in, and leave the function on one setting??

Thanks in advance

Phil

[Orville]

The Residential Controllers you just can't plug in RGB lights, you need a different controller for those that put out the correct voltage for them, i.e. 5vdc or 12vdc depending on the RGB requirements, as well as power supply to power the board{controller} and control the RGB lights..

Yes, you can plug in a light set that has it's own controller, providing #1. the setting DOES NOT CHANGE every time you power them off and on!  #2. if #1 is true, they keep their settings after set even after power has  been removed, you CAN use them, BUT,  then YOU WILL NOT be able to use any of the LOR CTB16PC features such as twinkle, fades, shimmers or any varying intensities, you will ONLY be able to use FULL ON and FULL OFF commands with those type strings.   They really are not the best suited strings to use with the residential 16 channel {CTB16PC} controller{s}.

 

 

Edited August 8, 2016 by Orville

[EmmienLightFan]

You can't control any of your lights with those controllers.

 

For 12v RGB strips look at the CMB24D. It is cheaper, and you can control the colour of your strips. You will also need a large 12v power supply, which can be got from Ebay or Amazon or Light-O-Rama. They sell a 200w 12v power supply which can easily power a few strips. You can find them cheaper elsewhere, but LOR's one is waterproof.

 

For your other lights, you need a low voltage DC controller. How many wires come out of the multi-function controller? If there are three, it is easy, if there are two wires, it is a little harder. Most 240v countries use low voltage lights, so I have the same problem as you being in the UK.

 

I use the 2811DC15 from Hanson Electronics. It works on pixel signals but you don't need to worry about this. LOR are bringing out some new small controllers which will convert the signal from the LOR one to WS2811.

 

You could also use the LOR CMB16QC

 

You also need a 30v power supply. I got mine from China, as a 30v PSU was really hard to find.

 

You need to cut of the controller, and just touch the wires on the power supply until you can work out which wire is + and which ones are the -s. One advantage of low voltage strings is you normally get two control channels per string, and can create some nice effect with this alone.

Edited August 8, 2016 by EmmienLightFan

[Orville]

I guess your lights that have a built in controller are different than ours.   As I can use a strand of lights with a controller that holds the setting in any position I want, but I can only use the CTBPC16's channels as FULL ON or FULL OFF.    But I can control light strands that have their own controller built onto them, been doing it for years.

 

Figured your lights would still feed in 240vac at the power plug from the built in controller and the controller built onto the light strand would convert the voltage internally to the proper volts to run the lights/L.E.D.'s safely.

 

And if that's the way they do work, then they should be controllable via the CTB16PC if set to use 240VAC mode as long as the strands are run only full on/full off.

I know mine have a 120VAC input in the US, then the controller steps down the voltages to run the strand at the correct voltage.   Would have thought 240VAC countries would have worked the same way, or do you have to have wiring put in to use those built in controllers on a light strand because they don't run straight off a standard 240VAC outlet in your country?   Which to me would sound a little strange.

 

Edited August 8, 2016 by Orville

[EmmienLightFan]

4 minutes ago, Orville said:

I guess your lights that have a built in controller are different than ours.   As I can use a strand of lights with a controller that holds the setting in any position I want, but I can only use the CTBPC16's channels as FULL ON or FULL OFF.    But I can control light strands that have their own controller built onto them, been doing it for years.

 

Figured your lights would still feed in 240vac at the power plug from the built in controller and the controller built onto the light strand would convert the voltage internally to the proper volts to run the lights/L.E.D.'s safely.

 

And if that's the way they do work, then they should be controllable via the CTB16PC if set to use 240VAC mode as long as the strands are run only full on/full off.

I know mine have a 120VAC input in the US, then the controller steps down the voltages to run the strand at the correct voltage.   Would have thought 240VAC countries would have worked the same way, or do you have to have wiring put in to use those built in controllers on a light strand because they don't run straight off a standard 240VAC outlet in your country?   Which to me would sound a little strange.

 

Yes, it is possible to control them with a CTB16PC and only use full on/off, but why do that when you can dim them, shimmer them and flicker them by using a different and cheaper controller?

 

Also, there is sometimes a significant delay in some lights between being powered and turning on. Sometimes a whole second, and not all lights remember what setting they were on last.

[Orville]

Yes, but the OP asked in their original message if they could be controlled.   So I was correct with my first answer to him, that yes, they could.

And I stated that it would be better to use a different style controller as well for RGB lights, which would also apply to the LED's, but the OP didn't ask about modifying the strands, just if they could use them, and the simple answer was yes, just full on/off only.  Especially if they didn't want to fool around with modifying the light strands.    That intent is unknown at this time.  I know I don't want to try and convert lights if I can avoid it, so I took my answers from that standpoint.

 

 

 

[canadianchristmas]

2 hours ago, EmmienLightFan said:

Yes, it is possible to control them with a CTB16PC and only use full on/off, but why do that when you can dim them, shimmer them and flicker them by using a different and cheaper controller?

 

Also, there is sometimes a significant delay in some lights between being powered and turning on. Sometimes a whole second, and not all lights remember what setting they were on last.

I should tell you that in australia they sell a lot of outdoor grade 240v christmas lights like in the U.S. so he only needs a 12v controller for his RGB strips.

To the OP: THE CTB16PC WITH 240V WILL WORK FINE WITH YOUR LIGHTS!!

[EmmienLightFan]

41 minutes ago, canadianchristmas said:

I should tell you that in australia they sell a lot of outdoor grade 240v christmas lights like in the U.S. so he only needs a 12v controller for his RGB strips.

To the OP: THE CTB16PC WITH 240V WILL WORK FINE WITH YOUR LIGHTS!!

?

 

The OP mentions in his post that his lights are low voltage.

[EmmienLightFan]

I think the best option is to use low voltage controllers. 

 

The controllers are cheaper

You get full control, including dimming, shimmering and twinkling

You can use your existing lights

 

I have tried commercial outdoor lights. Some work, some don't, but they are too expensive for me.

[philw]

Hi All

Thanks for all your comments still a little confused maybe if i ask another question what lights do i need to use with the lor residential starter pack, must they be 240v lights ?

will these work:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5050-RGB-5M-LED-SMD-300-LEDS-Strip-Light-12V-DC-IR-Controller-Power-Adapter-/322008162943?var=&hash=item4af92ea27f:m:mowNmHvEYMQvWnI2MnlGj-w

Thanks

 

 

[Mr. P]

No, no kind of RGB lights will work with your controllers. You will need a string type, single color light or or rope light that will only turn off or on and not change colors. Simply put, if you can plug it into an outlet in your wall and it turns on then you can use them.

Edited August 9, 2016 by Mr. P

[philw]

Thanks, back to the drawing board then !!!

Think i need help on what to buy !!

 

[EmmienLightFan]

6 hours ago, Mr. P said:

Simply put, if you can plug it into an outlet in your wall and it turns on then you can use them.

This is not true at all.

 

Our lights are completely different to yours. Most have a "wallwart" (I think that is what you call them).

 

Most lights have a 24v transformer. This feeds into a multi-function controller which creates the effects and has a rectifier which converts the AC to 31VDC which drives the lights. Dimming the transformers will slowly destroy the triacs of the LOR controllers and the multi-function controller will stop working. You can turn the lights full on or off, infrequently, but that really limits your sequencing.

Some don't have a transformer, and work off mains voltage, but same principle. 240v AC is converted to about 300vDC. These are rare as a shock from the 300v DC hurts apparently.

Incandescents are rare, and if they do they work on the same design as the LED strings.

 

 

You either need commercial grade 240v LED lights which have just a rectifier and no effects, or rope light with no effects if you want to use the CTB16PC controllers.

 

I strongly believe that the best option for you is to use low voltage controllers and your existing lights. They are much cheaper too, and you don't need new lights.

 

 

Have you heard of the Australian Christmas Lighting Forums?

You may find better help there.

[Orville]

EmmienLightFan, can't you folks have a step down{240VAC to 120VAC} power control breaker box put in that would allow you to use 120VAC and any standard style USA type light strand?     I know that route would be more expensive, but even though the lights may cost a lot more, wouldn't it worth it in the long run to use standard 120V lights?    And I sure wouldn't do that if I didn't own the home!   But if I owned the home and I lived in a 240VAC country, I believe I would have this done and the outlets put in for it would be a different color {plus they'd look different anyway} and have them all marked 120VAC items only.   Mainly because if I ever moved to a country that uses the standard 240VAC, I don't want to have to toss out and replace everything I own and use for the Holidays because it's wired for 120VAC US voltages!

 

But that's me, others mileage may differ.

[Mr. P]

So people Down Under can't just walk into a store and buy a string of 240v lights that plug into a wall?

[EmmienLightFan]

1 hour ago, Mr. P said:

So people Down Under can't just walk into a store and buy a string of 240v lights that plug into a wall?

They plug into a wall. They just have different controls and normally operate on a low voltage for safety and other reasons, and these will fail (Sometimes catastrophically) if dimmed or switched off frequently.

You can't plug our lights into a Light-O-Rama controller for the same reason you can't plug an RGB strip set with power supply and RGB controller into a Light-O-Rama controller.

 

1 hour ago, Orville said:

EmmienLightFan, can't you folks have a step down{240VAC to 120VAC} power control breaker box put in that would allow you to use 120VAC and any standard style USA type light strand?     I know that route would be more expensive, but even though the lights may cost a lot more, wouldn't it worth it in the long run to use standard 120V lights?    And I sure wouldn't do that if I didn't own the home!   But if I owned the home and I lived in a 240VAC country, I believe I would have this done and the outlets put in for it would be a different color {plus they'd look different anyway} and have them all marked 120VAC items only.   Mainly because if I ever moved to a country that uses the standard 240VAC, I don't want to have to toss out and replace everything I own and use for the Holidays because it's wired for 120VAC US voltages!

Yes, and that is the route many have taken.

Our 240v is different to your 240v, so it would take a transformer. These are readily available and cheap ($100 for a 3KW) as they are used on building sites, but most are actually centre tapped 55v, as it means any shock would be only 55v, not the full force of 110 or 240.

US lights apparently flicker more when powered like this. Also, we have 50HZ, which some controllers don't like.

 

Our lights are also really expensive. About $30 for a good quality 150 LED string. I always hear of US people buying a string for $2! I get so jealous!!!

Recently "connectable" lights have become popular. You have one large transformer and controller, and the strings all have 3 pin connectors on, and you link them all together and add in Ts, extension cables, splitters, and stuff. A whole house's lights can e powered off of one plug, which is quite nice, plus you don't pay for a transformer and controller for every string. Unfortunately several brands do them and even though they use the same voltage, they all have different connectors, and some brands even change the connector every year!!!

 

[Santas Helper]

I think there are questions and answers for two different types of lights at the same time, which is causing confusion.

Multi-function lights with a controller and regular string lights.

Both type of lights are totally different and should deserve different answers. Especially when an LOR controller is in play.

 

Edited August 9, 2016 by Santas Helper

[Orville]

5 hours ago, EmmienLightFan said:

They plug into a wall. They just have different controls and normally operate on a low voltage for safety and other reasons, and these will fail (Sometimes catastrophically) if dimmed or switched off frequently.

You can't plug our lights into a Light-O-Rama controller for the same reason you can't plug an RGB strip set with power supply and RGB controller into a Light-O-Rama controller.

 

Yes, and that is the route many have taken.

Our 240v is different to your 240v, so it would take a transformer. These are readily available and cheap ($100 for a 3KW) as they are used on building sites, but most are actually centre tapped 55v, as it means any shock would be only 55v, not the full force of 110 or 240.

US lights apparently flicker more when powered like this. Also, we have 50HZ, which some controllers don't like.

 

Our lights are also really expensive. About $30 for a good quality 150 LED string. I always hear of US people buying a string for $2! I get so jealous!!!

Recently "connectable" lights have become popular. You have one large transformer and controller, and the strings all have 3 pin connectors on, and you link them all together and add in Ts, extension cables, splitters, and stuff. A whole house's lights can e powered off of one plug, which is quite nice, plus you don't pay for a transformer and controller for every string. Unfortunately several brands do them and even though they use the same voltage, they all have different connectors, and some brands even change the connector every year!!!

 

That's what I kind of thought.  Strands for $2.00 in the US, eh?  The only time I've been lucky enough to get L.E.D. strands for that price or cheaper is usually directly after Christmas or Halloween and most often not very many left, pretty much slim pickings.     Although one year I picked up 16 L.E.D. Halloween strands, 8 M5 Orange L.E.D. and 8 Button Purple L.E.D. strands, got all 16 for $1.50!   Manager didn't want to send them back or store them.   So he said offer him anything, and so I joking said, "How about a buck fifty for what you have left?"   And he accepted it!  

That was one big surprise, then he asked if I wanted anything else, there were a few tombstones left, so I said well I could use those tombstones you have and a couple of other small lighted decorations he had left.   Figured I was going to get them for a huge discount, imagine how surprised I was when he just tossed them all in for that $1.50 price tag!    That was the deal of a lifetime for me on those items.       Hasn't ever happened again since.   But I sure made out like a bandit that one year.   Wish I could find more deals like that.

[Mr. P]

8 hours ago, Santas Helper said:

I think there are questions and answers for two different types of lights at the same time, which is causing confusion.

Multi-function lights with a controller and regular string lights.

Both type of lights are totally different and should deserve different answers. Especially when an LOR controller is in play.

 

The OP asked if he could use a CCR type RGB ribbons (link he posted) on his residential CTB16 controllers. I just stated that he couldn't use RGB of any type and must use a string type light that you can plug into the wall. I did not know that they don't have 240v stings Down Under like the 120v strings that we have in North America. It seems like all of their lights have converters built into them.

Doesn't that make the AC controllers pretty useless down there and force them on to the 12v and 5v systems if they don't have lights for them?

[EmmienLightFan]

55 minutes ago, Mr. P said:

Doesn't that make the AC controllers pretty useless down there and force them on to the 12v and 5v systems if they don't have lights for them?

Basically yes. 

Most of our lights run on 30vdc, so low voltage controllers and some RGB controllers like the CMB16QC can run them, it is just a little more complex, but no more than plugging in a power supply and cutting three wires.

 

I converted some of my existing lights and then chose to only buy RGB.