3 & 4 RGB wire

[godman]

What  type of wire is best used to extend my RGB pixels? I need 3 & 4 wire, where is the best place to purchase?

 

Thanks in Advance!

[Dennis Laff]

Look on Amazon for rgb wire

[Mr. P]

Several places to get wire:

 

http://www.holidaycoro.com/100ft-4-Conductor-18-AWG-Extension-RGB-Lights-p/695-100.htm

 

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003KPYRJM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=61DMUXRRSCM3&coliid=I3OXDC6SECW0LL

[Ron Boyd]

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023904&p_id=4043&seq=1&format=2

 

The amazon link above is $10 more than the exact same thing from the exact same seller, Monoprice.

 

The Holidaycoro RGB wire is best for extending the pixels. the Monoprice wire is best for power Injection.Use the 14 or 16 gauge and you can get 2 power injections with one length, providing the injection points are close together.

 

I used the MP wire for power injection and the HC wire for inputs and connecting each arm of this:

 

Edited October 24, 2014 by Ron Boyd

[dgrant]

I bought wire with connectors from RayWu and that worked out nice and easy. But, its late to be ordering now from him as its nearly time to be setting up outside. You'lll need wire and connnectors. For my dumb RGB, I bought 16/4 cable wire from somewhere...lol, don't remember this second, then bought a ton of trailer connectors for outside use but the place quickly stopped selling so many at once after my order. I got up the dumb rgb lights though and they are working perfectly for Halloween since they were used for window frames. Yesterday, I ran a test with the pixels but only three strings worth outside along with 9 of the controlllers. Still have to put out 4 more and connect when I put up Christmas. So far, so good. 

[godman]

Would this work?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-RGB-4-Pin-Extension-Wire-Connector-Cable-Cord-For-3528-5050-RGB-LED-Strip-/160938529075?pt=US_Lighting_Parts_and_Accessories&var=&hash=item2578af1133

[amstone110]

Not sure what AWG wire it is but looks like the same to me.  Free shipping too which is nice

[dgrant]

It doesn't state what the AWG is so I don't know. Sort of depends on how far you need to extend. My max run was about 75 feet and those 3 window frames are nice and bright using 16 AWG wire.

[james campbell]

I just use 18 gauge stranded security wire.

[sax]

Pixels are tough. Doubt you get 75 ft with any wire without use of null pixels.

It depends on voltage, controller and type of pixels. With 5v you get less distance.

Dumb, I am able to go over 100' with awg 18 cable.

Smart, I am having issues with my e682. Max I can get with bullet type pixels using 12 vdc and the same cables is 20' then null pixel. Less with strips. My issue is not loss of power but loss of data. I have two elements that are 50' away and I am using 3 strings of 30 pixels on each. No power injection.

Big write up in e1.31 section of forums titled wire type does matter. Check it out for wire types used and other useful information for pixels.

I am using Rays extensions and pigtails. I use 4 wire for both dumb and smart to allow the use of the same cables. Holiday coro, creative lighting displays and many other vendors carry these cables as well. You can of course make your own as well.

[dgrant]

Can someone explain to me what and how a "Null" pixel works? Why its needed and how to configure one if ever needed? I don't have an issue with mine, so far, but for whatever reason, null pixels doesn't sound like something we should have to consider...whatever they do.

[sax]

Pixels require the data to be carried to and from each bulb. As the data reaches a bulb it uses the data it needs, then after it uses it it "conditions it" and sends it out. Some people may say amplify but I prefer condition. Distance degrades that data signal just as it does power. But it is opposite of power. Where power is used by the pixel, data is conditioned by the pixel. More lights makes the data line more reliable.

For power you can aid with loss by using power injection.

For data, you use the null pixel.

A null pixel is just one of the lights. It works by simply taking the data and conditioning it to a readable level again. If you don't designate it as a null pixel on the controller then it will be bulb one on your pixel string. When you designate null pixels the controller skips that many pixels before sending the programming data. So the bulb just conditions the data.

Null pixels are only needed for smart pixels. And only for long runs.

If you put your controller next to your element then your need of null pixels is reduced.

The hardest part with null pixels to me is soldering them up. It is one light with two 4-pin connectors.

Hope that helps.

[sax]

As an example, I use e682. I have a cherry tree 50 feet away with bullet style pixels.

Controller ---> 20' extension ---> null pixel ---> 20' extension ---> null pixel ---> 10' extension ---> pixel string

This did not work with my strips. My strips were flashing during the song. They are 20' away from my controller but I had to do this:

Controller ---> 10' extension ---> null pixel ---> 10' extension ---> pixel strip

Even though the pixels are different, one being bullet style and the other being a strip, they are both the same chip type...so I used the same null pixel. My null pixel is just one of the bullet style pixels.

[dgrant]

Thank You for the explanation and its level of detail. I would think that a chip receiving the data, then resending it would condition the data signal to the proper level right then, on each and every pixel as opposed to it degrading over the length of the run. I'm not familiar with the internals of the various chips such as 2811s or 6803s and etc...if its just a case of them passing the data through, without a formal data level, then hopefully this will be something coming in the future. In my case, this is the first year I'm doing pixels, ws2811's from Ray Wu. Its a 12 string pixel tree, 50 pixels per string, 3 in series and using power injection at the base between strings 2nd and 3rd of each group of 3. I'm using the JoshuaSystems P12S/X card therefore in this configuration, I'm consuming 4 universes. The controller will be mounted right at the tree itself but will still have to use a 10 foot extension cable to connect each group plus the power injection cables. I tested it on the driveway with 20 foot extensions and it still worked so I'm hopeful that next week, it'll still be good when I start putting out Christmas. If not, then I'll try the null pixel on the first channel/pixel of each group of 150.

[godman]

A little confused, is the null pixel a "special" pixel? Or is it just  "a" pixel from your string that you could use? I'm asking because I have extra strings that I could use the pixels from if needed.

[dgrant]

I don't think so...its a case of using a pixel in the string already, to not be used for its normal purpose of lighting up, rather using it as a data amplifier, probably the first one on the string, if I'm understanding correctly. If you aren't having any issues, then you don't need to worry about it. It comes into play, if the line loss for the data line is so great that it loses so much that things stop working correctly.

[sax]

The null is just one of the pixels. It extends the range of the data transmission. Like I said, I just used one of my bullet pixels and created my nulls. It is called null simply because you don't want this pixel to be used as your programmed pixel but to just extend the range of your extension cable. You build this null pixel. I have never seen anyone sell one. It is just one of your pixels that you place between extension cables.

Yes, the data is conditioned after it goes through the null and power is consumed. Good for data and bad for power.....but bad is not really that bad. It consumes one pixel of power which is like .32 watts or less since the bulb is not actually illuminating.

E682 does not go as far as the Joshua systems and it appears that it is due to resistor packs sans devices uses. I will begin testing those packs in January when I pull it all down but others have increased their distance by replacing those packs with lower valued resistance. Again, look in the e 1.31 section but this time under the title long grid.

In my testing, I set everything up and it all worked with 25' extensions. Once I started the show I saw flicker in the pixels. In test mode no flicker. Reducing to 20' fixed it. (10' for the strips. Why the difference? No idea. Flicker was corrected with a null so I move on)

Now, I am using Ray Wu 15mm extension cables, 4 pin pigtails and pixels. 18 awg. 2811 chipset for both my bullet pixels and strips. I am 12vdc with no power injection. Sans device e682 controller.

I wanted easy and cheap. And once I reduced to 20' on the extensions for the pixels and 10' for the strips it all works fine.

I could stop there. But I will test further.

I have beldin 1502 cable that shields data from power. The data cables are not twisted although it is smaller wire and has foil shielding. This cable is definitely not cheap. But I want to see if I can go to 50' with it.

I want to test the resistor packs with my existing setup. Can 25' or further be achieved with just changing those packs?

If you have the Joshua controller then you already go further with your data. The cable may help but it is pricey. I would prefer to use nulls every 25' as it is more cost effective than that beldin 1502 cable.

But that is just my opinion. And of course testing is always the best way to verify operation. Test test test.

[sax]

Look here

http://forums.lightorama.com/index.php?/topic/32871-grid-and-long-cables-with-e682/

[trini101]

I am in some deep need of help first time trying RGB and am lost. I got my 24 channel Dc controller and I have no idea where to put the four wires and I will definitely need longer four prong wires and can I screw this controller to a wall or is this going to get hot and start a fire. Please someone help c369phi@yahoo.com 

[godman]

Your controller is the LOR CMB card? What lights are you using? The controller should be mounted in a case

Edited October 28, 2014 by godman