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DIY kit vs. ready made commercial ones?


Riker0007

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So was gonna make my own with the diy kits.  What is the difference with deluxe version and standard; only a set the id turn pot and????  Also, do these diy kits that you solder all the components on have the same ic's as the commercial ready to go ones?  Does this matter? Just got my plastci version kit, with the deluxe software and usb unit packaged deal and wanted to add three more controllers via either the solder kits or just buy a used LOR1602W version off ebay is this a bad idea?  I can solder just about anything and have already sourced the power cables and metal enclosures.  $15 for the box and about $33 for the power cables. That's about $210 to make one in a metal enclosure vs. a little more on ebay but no soldering and they'll have a power switch and easy fuse removal; but how often is that needed?  However, who knows how old they are on ebay and I think lighorama will be a little more helpful if needed by buying from them???  Does anyone have a photo of the DIY solder kit with the high amp heat syncs?

Any thoughts or suggestions would be awesome.

Thanks

Don

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So was gonna make my own with the diy kits.  What is the difference with deluxe version and standard; only a set the id turn pot and????  Also, do these diy kits that you solder all the components on have the same ic's as the commercial ready to go ones?  Does this matter? Just got my plastci version kit, with the deluxe software and usb unit packaged deal and wanted to add three more controllers via either the solder kits or just buy a used LOR1602W version off ebay is this a bad idea?  I can solder just about anything and have already sourced the power cables and metal enclosures.  $15 for the box and about $33 for the power cables. That's about $210 to make one in a metal enclosure vs. a little more on ebay but no soldering and they'll have a power switch and easy fuse removal; but how often is that needed?  However, who knows how old they are on ebay and I think lighorama will be a little more helpful if needed by buying from them???  Does anyone have a photo of the DIY solder kit with the high amp heat syncs?

Any thoughts or suggestions would be awesome.

Thanks

Don

 

You can find differences between the Showtime and Residential controllers here.

 

Short answer, they run the same effects, and can be used together on a network. The kits that require soldering have the same capacities as the other controllers, with the exception they are not G3 controllers, they are the previous generation. You're not losing much there, but something to note.

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Thanks for the response so quickly.

What is a G3 controller?  The ones on ebay I'm guessing are older versions also.  Mostly is it a better thing to put a kit together with newer components or one that is ready to go??  On the fence here.

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Either way they have great customer service and if you solder a kit they will help you, if you buy a used one they will help you. Honestly the metals enclosures are not necessary, the plastic ones work just fine, Cheaper also. Also $33 for the plug wires is pricey, you can make your own dongles from SPT cable much cheaper

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Where do people get plastic enclosures that will work from?  I priced them out at monoprice.com  Their prices are pretty good and the ends will be factory sealed.

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Light-O-Rama has enclosures in their store. (I don't have them in stock as of now.)

 

The biggest difference with G3 controllers is the introduction of dimming curves in the firmware. If you are using LED's the dimming curves will let you tweak the fade rate of the lights.

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Light-O-Rama has enclosures in their store. (I don't have them in stock as of now.)

 

The biggest difference with G3 controllers is the introduction of dimming curves in the firmware. If you are using LED's the dimming curves will let you tweak the fade rate of the lights.

you forgot the 500k network speed..

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you forgot the 500k network speed..

 

Yep. Looks like I did.

 

To explain what 500k is ... it allows the LOR network to run faster data rates. The number of Cosmic Color Devices that can be run on a 500k network is much greater than that of a regular network.

 

Worth mentioning, you can't run a 500k network if you have older controllers. 500k will work only with G3. Newbies probably won't run into that problem. Long time LOR users might, though.

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It says the enclosures usually ship next day.  I just want to add to the residential starter package I got with three other controllers.  The least expensive way so it is either ebay or the solder kit.  Which way is the better way to go?

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It says the enclosures usually ship next day.  I just want to add to the residential starter package I got with three other controllers.  The least expensive way so it is either ebay or the solder kit.  Which way is the better way to go?

 

You might consider buying a new G3 "complete" kit. Comes with the plastic box and all the cords. All you have to do is non soldering assembly. Don's store (synchronized.christmas) is a LOR partner and has them on sale right for for $199. I just bought 2. Don answers a lot of questions here on the forum and i appreciate that.

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I have 7 LOR controllers, all bought as kits, all the deluxe model. I bought them because I like building things, saving a few bucks was a bonus. I bought the deluxe units because of the selection switches, no fooling around with a computer to set the unit ID, but that's me. Only you can decide which way is better for you.

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The ctb16 is all most will ever need. The kits are easy and save you money. Make cheaper cord with spt2 wire and vampire plugs. I used to get like 3 packs of indoor cords at the target clearance for like $.33 each .... Then turn each cord into 3 cords with 2 vampire plugs. Very cheap way to make cords .

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I sodered my own boards they are great kit and easy to assamble. I pick up 1$ 6ft extension cords from Dollar Tree you can order them by the case from customer service 1-877-530-8733.  

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If I was starting out I would purchase the card assembled complete kit. It is a g3 board and requires no soldering. Less time building is more time sequencing or setting up. You also get a full warranty on a device you have used or abused, not someone's controller that just was stressed and pops fuses. Plus, and this is the number one reason to go new, you will be able to include a starter pack which will save some money. Get the advanced license and high speed connector. Again, this saves money now for things you will wish you bought later.

G3 board also allows use of input switches right on the board for interactive use. This may or may not be a limiting factor but why restrict yourself?

I also purchase the card assembled (add options) kit with no options for my backup board. Spares ensure the show goes on at the expense of a controller just begging to be used. But....this would be a perfect candidate for your soldering. Tinker when you have time and be confident the show can go on.

Cableguard CG 1500 cases are used by many, including me, for RGB devices. It will also work for the LOR AC products. But I personally always purchase the card assembled complete package which will have everything you need. Some assembly required....like 30 mins or so.

Good luck,

Sax

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