CLD Kevin Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 Hello All... I've always used 120W Incandescent Floods in my shows and are a great effect but with 26 120W floods...it required 26 amps. I'm wanting to completely go away from incandescent and be 100% LED, but I cant find anything that is as bright, fires in sync and will fade/shimmer, ect and can use with standard PC controller. Like a PAR38 Flood. The LED 120W floods you can get at like HD/Lowes are super bright, are PAR38 and more of a spot than a food....but unfortunately, they don't stay in sync and sometimes don't turn on at all in a sequence. Probably due to the driver inside. I also tried one of those 90 small LEDs inside the PAR38 Flood. Those are in sync and fade every time, but unfortunately, they are not very bright at all unless your standing 10ft in front of it. I would prefer to use PAR38 Floods so I can use the PC controllers I have for something, but doesn't have to be. I'm sure there are some bright DMX white spots. Also using 30W or 50W China DC floods in an option, but the beams of those are too wide. I want something like 60-80 degree beam. 120 degree is just too wide and will lose some of the punch. Thanks, Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CLD Kevin Posted August 25, 2014 Author Share Posted August 25, 2014 something like this bright Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Boyd Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 Kevin, check with Jim Evans, "scubado", I believe he did some 50 or 100 watt floods. Don't know if that's what you're looking for. I think the LOR 10W may not be bright enough. There are rumors that LOR would have some 50w floods coming soon. http://forums.lightorama.com/index.php?/topic/32088-sale-cosmic-color-floods/?p=295478Supposedly being manufactured now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiplorenzo Posted August 27, 2014 Share Posted August 27, 2014 Kevin, Check Ray's Store... I have bought Higher wattage Floods from him that are color changing (DMX) and he does have all white.The last unit I bought was 1 30 w and 1 50 watt flood. The 50 watt was a cold white that I use in the horse barn, I know there are higher wattages (up to I think 100 w LED) Kip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CLD Kevin Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 (edited) Kevin,Check Ray's Store... I have bought Higher wattage Floods from him that are color changing (DMX) and he does have all white.The last unit I bought was 1 30 w and 1 50 watt flood. The 50 watt was a cold white that I use in the horse barn, I know there are higher wattages (up to I think 100 w LED)KipI could be wrong about this and please correct me if I am....but I think those 20w thru 50w small floods are list as 120V but there is a driver inside the flood. The problem is it takes a second for the driver to kick on and then the light. So it would be impossible to sync them using the driver. Now, I think the LED SMD are 34v. I suppose I could eliminate the driver and use a CMB16D with a 36V Power Supply? Anyone try this and how did it work? Edited September 2, 2014 by CLD Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Santas Helper Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 I couldn't be wrong about this and please correct me if I am....but I think those 20w thru 50w small floods are list as 120V but there is a driver inside the flood. The problem is it takes a second for the driver to kick on and then the light. So it would be impossible to sync them using the driver. Now, I think the LED SMD are 34v. I suppose I could eliminate the driver and use a CMB16D with a 36V Power Supply? Anyone try this and how did it work? Kevin, Jim (Scudado) and myself have hacked those LED floods so it's not running 120v. I've done a bunch of 10w ( I realize that isn't bright enough for you) but Jim has hacked/built the higher wattage ones. So being hacked you have no driver and no delays.I'm surprised with the 10 watters myself and I have them facing out towards the street like you do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CLD Kevin Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 Jim (Scudado) and myself have hacked those LED floods so it's not running 120v. I've done a bunch of 10w ( I realize that isn't bright enough for you) but Jim has hacked/built the higher wattage ones. So being hacked you have no driver and no delays.I'm surprised with the 10 watters myself and I have them facing out towards the street like you do.Thanks! I knew the 10w were 12V and have hacked one to see how it works. Very simple. But not bright enough. The 20w and up are 34v...for RGB. I found a vendor that "claims" to have white 30w in 12v with the proper wires hanging out? We shall see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CLD Kevin Posted September 2, 2014 Author Share Posted September 2, 2014 (edited) So I received the 30w 12v white flood today. Very bright. About the same as a 150w incandescent. It works perfect with the DC controller inputting only 12v. But someone explain this to me as I never come across this. Inside the flood is a converter. I though there was going to be a delay but nope. It converts voltage up from 12v dc input and 36v dc output? I input 12v and BAM...right away. I play a sequence and sync perfect. The dimming range was from about 5% to 80% but hardly noticeable when I left the seq as fading from 0 to 100% (fast fades). Longer fades probably needs adjusting. So here is a question....if I have this flooded connected to the LOR DC board using a 12v power supply which connects to the 12v in / 36v out converter...do you see any issue? I've seen many convert down (24v to 12v/5v) but not convert up. Edited September 2, 2014 by CLD Kevin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob VandenBoom Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Boost converters for LED drivers are fairly common. I am not very familiar with them, but would expect them to work fine in the application as long as the components were able to handle the current needed to switch the boot circuit on. I am not sure about the power on time for the circuit, but even a slow power on time in the millisecond (0.001s) range would be imperceivable to us. Can you make out a chip number on the boost circuit? Should be an IC, an inductor, a capacitor, a diode, and a couple resistors. 12V in 34V out at 1 amp or better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CLD Kevin Posted September 3, 2014 Author Share Posted September 3, 2014 Boost converters for LED drivers are fairly common. I am not very familiar with them, but would expect them to work fine in the application as long as the components were able to handle the current needed to switch the boot circuit on. I am not sure about the power on time for the circuit, but even a slow power on time in the millisecond (0.001s) range would be imperceivable to us. Can you make out a chip number on the boost circuit? Should be an IC, an inductor, a capacitor, a diode, and a couple resistors. 12V in 34V out at 1 amp or better. Here is a pic of the driver Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Constantino Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Kevin,What's wrong with using the Show Blind that you posted in the video? I might try these out this year. Solaris flare, it is a RGBW strobe / wash fixture.https://youtube.com/watch?v=xxYshxDzbBM Thanks,Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CLD Kevin Posted September 4, 2014 Author Share Posted September 4, 2014 Kevin,What's wrong with using the Show Blind that you posted in the video? I might try these out this year. Solaris flare, it is a RGBW strobe / wash fixture. Thanks,Steve My original question was for me. When I commented on the 30w single flood it was actually for a client request. Since I was already asking about bright flood lights, I just used the same post. For what in looking for...the single 30w won't work. The beam is way to wide (120 degree). I'm afraid to ask the cost for the Solaris. 1000w anything gotta be high Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now