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What flood lights does Cracker use?


bhays

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he answered this last year in the original threads found farther down in Halloween, other than asking Kevin, those are incand floods.

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he answered this last year in the original threads found farther down in Halloween, other than asking Kevin, those are incand floods.

Just the halogen work light type? Do you have a link to the thread? I did send him PM.

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Brent,

I replied to your pm. I've been asked this same question many times. I have answered before but probably buried somewhere in the forum.

I did not use anything fancy or high tech. Just standard 100w par38 floods that you can purchase from Lowes or HD. When 20 of them turn on at the same time...they are bright. Now these are Incan floods...not LED. I would like to replace with LED but haven't tested any nor know if they are just as bright? Something that I need to look into.

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10W leds are good, 20W leds are great. The 20W ones handle 12V better and are brighter. They will give you what you want for effect and best bang for the buck. Also great for lightning. Caution, these do get hot fast if you keep them on and require a heat sink. If used for flashing only, heat sink shouldn't be needed.

I'm going to be ordering a new type of led that has some promise, a Cree XM-L T6 led. They're using them in flashlights on Ebay that have some killer output.

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You can make great Aux. driving lights with the 20W leds. They can handle the 14.5V power without using any resistor.

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Brent,

I replied to your pm. I've been asked this same question many times. I have answered before but probably buried somewhere in the forum.

I did not use anything fancy or high tech. Just standard 100w par38 floods that you can purchase from Lowes or HD. When 20 of them turn on at the same time...they are bright. Now these are Incan floods...not LED. I would like to replace with LED but haven't tested any nor know if they are just as bright? Something that I need to look into.

If you're planning to use the 120 volt AC models, be aware there is about a 1 second time lag from when you apply power to when they actually light.

If you're planning to use the DC models with a PWM type of LED controller, your results should be instant.

FYI

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I don't mean to but in and ask more questions, but...

Reading the 20w would be brighter. If I'm just using the 16ctb controller would there be a "lag" time? I did purchase led floods for last and there was a lag. Really messes up the show. I ended up in plugging them and using the standard flood lights.

Thanks in advanced.

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I don't mean to but in and ask more questions, but... Reading the 20w would be brighter. If I'm just using the 16ctb controller would there be a "lag" time? I did purchase led floods for last and there was a lag. Really messes up the show. I ended up in plugging them and using the standard flood lights. Thanks in advanced.

Something doesnt sound right here. LEDs dont normally lag. What did you use and how did you have it hooked up?

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It's not the LED that lags, it's the supporting circuitry for the AC transformer that's usually in the back of the floodlight.

 

It takes a while (1-3 seconds) to get it's act together before it send DC power out to the LED.

 

If you bypass the electronic transformer circuit and feed your own PWM DC to the LED, there's no lag at all.

 

 

Although I haven't tried it, there's also some 12v DC floodlights that might not have the delay that the AC models have.

Edited by Ken Benedict
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It's not the LED that lags, it's the supporting circuitry for the AC transformer that's usually in the back of the floodlight.

 

It takes a while (1-3 seconds) to get it's act together before it send DC power out to the LED.

 

If you bypass the electronic transformer circuit and feed your own PWM DC to the LED, there's no lag at all.

 

 

Although I haven't tried it, there's also some 12v DC floodlights that might not have the delay that the AC models have.

Then why not just control those LED floods thru the DC controller?

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Then why not just control those LED floods thru the DC controller?

That's just it.  If he bought the ones that use AC, you'll get lag and no fading.  If you eliminate the AC junk, you then control them using a DC controller or a DMX controller.

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This is what's inside most of them:

 

 

If you convert them to DC control, you should measure the voltage and current they use before taking them apart.

Edited by Ken Benedict
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