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North Pole(s) sorta


caniac

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caniac wrote:

Cray Augsburg wrote:
Orville wrote:
Hey Cray,

Are these the ones you're talking about? (10 inch/set of 4: $2.46)

http://www.walmart.com/ip/COLEMAN-TENT-STAKES-10/13848624

or this one? (10 inch/set of 4: $7.00)

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Coghlan-s-10-Nail-Tent-Pegs-4-Pack/8586940



And they also have these: (9 inch/Set of 6: $2.88) Which DO NOT look like nails.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/COLEMAN-TENT-STAKES-ABS-9/13848618?findingMethod=rr


Dang you're quick. :)

Either of the first two entries work great, Orville. That last item (the ABS stakes) are worthless in hard ground or gravel.

I have about 80 of the first item (green top) and 20 or so of the orange top. The difference is that the green ones tend to oxidize a little quicker. But after 10 years, I have yet to throw any of them away. These things are great, whether you are camping or trying to hold blowmolds in place, etc.


I agree, we tend to use a rubber mallet on them at times because the ground can be hard here. The last ones snap way too easy. that is why we switched to the other ones.


Thanks for reminding me! I need to buy a new rubber mallet. Wore mine out (finally) last year and need to get one. I haven't used any of those type items, well maybe something similar to the last one.

I usually buy the brown hard plastic stakes that Home Depot sells (only at Christmas time - DUMB!) to hold my wire frame animated deer in place, along with a few other items. Been using them for many years wirth no issues, but then I don't have to worry about "frozen ground", and Florida usually doesn't have too many hard ground areas (not that I've encountered in any places I've lived in Florida).
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Cray Augsburg wrote:

Orville wrote:
Hey Cray,

Are these the ones you're talking about? (10 inch/set of 4: $2.46)

http://www.walmart.com/ip/COLEMAN-TENT-STAKES-10/13848624

or this one? (10 inch/set of 4: $7.00)

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Coghlan-s-10-Nail-Tent-Pegs-4-Pack/8586940



And they also have these: (9 inch/Set of 6: $2.88) Which DO NOT look like nails.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/COLEMAN-TENT-STAKES-ABS-9/13848618?findingMethod=rr


Dang you're quick. :)

Either of the first two entries work great, Orville. That last item (the ABS stakes) are worthless in hard ground or gravel.

I have about 80 of the first item (green top) and 20 or so of the orange top. The difference is that the green ones tend to oxidize a little quicker. But after 10 years, I have yet to throw any of them away. These things are great, whether you are camping or trying to hold blowmolds in place, etc.






Cray,

Since I've never used these metal tent nails(pegs) before, I have several questions about how you are using these to secure a Blowmold:

#1. Do your pre-drill a hole in the blowmold for them to go through?

#2. Do you just drive the nail(peg) through the blowmold, allowing it to create the hole?

#3. Do you drive the nail(peg) straight in or at a slight angle?

#4. How many do you use per blowmold (2, 4, 6 or some other number)?



I want to get the maximum hold down for my blowmolds, and without much damage in doing so.

Thanks!
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caniac wrote:

my prototype:

Proto1_001.jpg

What are your plans to keep the globe attached to the PVC?
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jimswinder wrote:

caniac wrote:
my prototype:

Proto1_001.jpg

What are your plans to keep the globe attached to the PVC?
silicone? Though if I lived in West Virginia or Alabama Duct Tape would be the proper product.
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caniac wrote:

silicone? Though if I lived in West Virginia or Alabama Duct Tape would be the proper product.

how about changing out bad strands of lights?
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jimswinder wrote:

caniac wrote:
silicone? Though if I lived in West Virginia or Alabama Duct Tape would be the proper product.

how about changing out bad strands of lights?
ok, moving to West Virginia where i can use Duct Tape.
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caniac wrote:

jimswinder wrote:
caniac wrote:
my prototype:

Proto1_001.jpg

What are your plans to keep the globe attached to the PVC?
silicone? Though if I lived in West Virginia or Alabama Duct Tape would be the proper product.



Me, I would drill 4 small pilot holes around the neck where the globe is recessed near its opening(NOT into the globe!) and get 4 very small thumbscrews to hold it in place. Also makes it easier to change out the bulb. I would also use a light film of silcone around the rim of the globe to keep moisture out, but that depends on how snug and tight the globe fits in place.

You see I'd do a "rain test" on mine before adding the light fixture inside by spraying water(like rain) from a garden hose over it and see just how "wet" it would get inside. Silicone may not be required if the globe fits snug enough. But the 4 thumbscrews would make it easier to facilitate bulb replacement, as well as hold the globe in place, and to keep the globe from blowing off the top of the pole.

And you can get these thumbscrews in gold, bronze, silver and black at Ace Hardware. (or that's where I have bought them in the past when I needed them for our porch lamps when I lost a couple in the past.



BTW: looks very nice! Just needs its stripes!:)
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jimswinder wrote:

caniac wrote:
silicone? Though if I lived in West Virginia or Alabama Duct Tape would be the proper product.

how about changing out bad strands of lights?

If you use a VERY thin silcone line around the globe where it sits in the pole, you can just "twist it" and it would break apart, allowing replacement of the bulb or light string inside the globe. But the key is VERY THIN silicone, too thick and then you risk having to use a razor knife to cut it away, and possibly even damaging your "plastic" globe in the process.
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Orville wrote:




Cray,

Since I've never used these metal tent nails(pegs) before, I have several questions about how you are using these to secure a Blowmold:

#1. Do your pre-drill a hole in the blowmold for them to go through?

#2. Do you just drive the nail(peg) through the blowmold, allowing it to create the hole?

#3. Do you drive the nail(peg) straight in or at a slight angle?

#4. How many do you use per blowmold (2, 4, 6 or some other number)?



I want to get the maximum hold down for my blowmolds, and without much damage in doing so.

Thanks!






Ouch! I was actually planning a tutorial on this, but haven't gotten one of them "roun 2 its" yet. It's a little more involved than that -- I'll give you the short version (the materials are mixed in with the instructions). Read through all the steps and you'll get an idea how I do this:

1. stand the blowmold on a sheet of plywood (I use 3/4", exterior grade is your best option) and trace around it using a sharpie or pencil (whatever).

2. use a 2- to 3-inch can to add "ears" on the border of your tracing. Add two (for small blowmold) or three (for large) "ears", spaced around the blowmold. What you want to do is center the can on the LINE of the original tracing, so the ear that sticks out past the tracing is half the size of the can and acts as a tab through which you can drive the stakes.

3. use a larger round item (say 4 to 5 inches in diameter) to trace a "hole" in the center of the blowmold tracing - preferably located in line with the hole in the bottom of the blowmold.

4. cut out the tracing, going around the ears with a jig saw or Roto-Zip. Cut out the hole in the center. At this point, I usually use a 1/4" roundover bit to rout all the edges of the cutout.

5. drill a 1/2" hole through each ear to give you a place to drive the stake. You want to keep this toward the outer edge (maybe 1/2 to 3/4 inch away). The idea is that you can drive the stakes through these holes without smacking the blowmold (once it's mounted) with the hammer.

6. two coats of spraypaint to prtoect the wood -- it's going to be on the ground. I use flat black, though dark green works well to if the mold is going to be on the grass.

7. turn the mold upside down and place the painted and dried cutout on the bottom. Center it. Holding it in place, drill through the cutout (base) and into the inside of the blowmold. Place a screw (I use 10-24 screws, usually 1-1/2 inches in length) with a washer through the cutout and into the inside of the blowmold. Place a large #10 (or similar) fender washer (large washer, little hole) on the screw inside the blowmold by reaching through the large hole in the base and blowmold. Then put a nut on the screw. Tighten it down with a small wrench inside the mold, and a screwdriver on the outside. Make sure to center the coutout on the bottom of the mold.

8. now drill two more holes and place two more screws. In all, you should have three screw/nut combos holding the base to the blowmold.

9. turn the mold right-side up. Put it where you want it. Stake it down.

This method, while time-consuming is the best "invisible" (from the street) method of holding a mold. It looks a lot better than zip-tying them to rebar. And none of mine have tipped, even in high wind. I have not done this to all my molds -- just the ones I have actually displayed or plan to display soon. On some molds with small cutouts in the bottom, I have Roto-zipped the opening to make it a little larger for easier access. You'll have to be creative to do this with Noel candles -- I haven't done any of mine yet.

All my molds are in storage now so I can't get you a good picture just yet. I'll try to get a couple in the next few days.

Good luck. (Just remember, you asked for this.:P)
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Nice, Caniac. You can also add a coupler to the top of the PVC pipe to give a little more detail. Or leave it as is. It'll look good striped.

I agree with Orville - I would drill three small holes around the perimeter of the top to match the groove around the globe to hold it in. Then use small screws to actually hold it.

Depending on how you light it, you may not have to worry too much about complete water-tightness.

But, as you say, a LITTLE silicone shouldn't be bad.

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Cray Augsburg wrote:

Nice, Caniac. You can also add a coupler to the top of the PVC pipe to give a little more detail. Or leave it as is. It'll look good striped.

I agree with Orville - I would drill three small holes around the perimeter of the top to match the groove around the globe to hold it in. Then use small screws to actually hold it.

Depending on how you light it, you may not have to worry too much about complete water-tightness.

But, as you say, a LITTLE silicone shouldn't be bad.
I have 50ct full wave led's in the pic, do like the idea of the coupler though.
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just wondering why not use.. 2"x2" stakes to slide the pvc tubes over? cut them abt 12" long, taper one end, drive half of it into the ground with a sledge, and slip the pipes over them.. not have to drive multiple large "nails" into the ground around the toilet flange.. just wondering.. in AZ, we dont get ground freezing, so 2x2" stakes would be easier.. I image many other places dont get ground hard freezing..

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TJ Hvasta wrote:

just wondering why not use.. 2"x2" stakes to slide the pvc tubes over? cut them abt 12" long, taper one end, drive half of it into the ground with a sledge, and slip the pipes over them.. not have to drive multiple large "nails" into the ground around the toilet flange.. just wondering.. in AZ, we dont get ground freezing, so 2x2" stakes would be easier.. I image many other places dont get ground hard freezing..


Teej:

I don't know about other areas, but in KY the ground does get pretty hard in the winter. I have tried wooden stakes for various things -- what always happens to me is the tops of the stakes soon get "smashed" from the repeated pounding. So I tried the tent stakes ("nails"), and they worked so well. They go in easy and come back out easy. Plus they are reusable for a long time (and they double for use when we're camping -- actually had them for camping originally, then tried them for Xmas decor). They're fairly small, so they store well when not in use. I don't know . . . guess the bottom line is that I had 'em, I like the way they work, so that's what I use.
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To seal it off with silicone without permanently attaching the two... I would put a bead of silicone along the top of the PVC... Allow it to dry overnight creating a rubber seal... then set the globe on top and securing it with three thumb screws. Then you have a water tight seal and the globe still comes off with ease. :(

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Cray Augsburg wrote:

TJ Hvasta wrote:
just wondering why not use.. 2"x2" stakes to slide the pvc tubes over? cut them abt 12" long, taper one end, drive half of it into the ground with a sledge, and slip the pipes over them.. not have to drive multiple large "nails" into the ground around the toilet flange.. just wondering.. in AZ, we dont get ground freezing, so 2x2" stakes would be easier.. I image many other places dont get ground hard freezing..


Teej:

I don't know about other areas, but in KY the ground does get pretty hard in the winter. I have tried wooden stakes for various things -- what always happens to me is the tops of the stakes soon get "smashed" from the repeated pounding. So I tried the tent stakes ("nails"), and they worked so well. They go in easy and come back out easy. Plus they are reusable for a long time (and they double for use when we're camping -- actually had them for camping originally, then tried them for Xmas decor). They're fairly small, so they store well when not in use. I don't know . . . guess the bottom line is that I had 'em, I like the way they work, so that's what I use.


Yeah, what he said!! lol

I have a real nice lawn and the ground isn't particularly hard do they go in somewhat easy and come out the same way. 2x2 stakes would tear up my lawn.
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Nurples wrote:

To seal it off with silicone without permanently attaching the two... I would put a bead of silicone along the top of the PVC... Allow it to dry overnight creating a rubber seal... then set the globe on top and securing it with three thumb screws. Then you have a water tight seal and the globe still comes off with ease. :(
was thinking of going the sleeve route. found what i needed and it looks to be 3-4 inches in length. will glue the globe to the top part of the sleeve and just slide it on. will paint the sleeve to match the tube.
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caniac wrote:

Nurples wrote:
To seal it off with silicone without permanently attaching the two... I would put a bead of silicone along the top of the PVC... Allow it to dry overnight creating a rubber seal... then set the globe on top and securing it with three thumb screws. Then you have a water tight seal and the globe still comes off with ease. :(
was thinking of going the sleeve route. found what i needed and it looks to be 3-4 inches in length. will glue the globe to the top part of the sleeve and just slide it on. will paint the sleeve to match the tube.


Depending on wether or not you get any high winds that may work. But if you get some high winds like wwe sometimes get in our "thunderstorms" and sometimes just a storm the wind is strong enough it could use the globe as leverage and pull it right off the top of the pole (or so I would think). So I'd still put in at least 3 or 4 regular screws through the sleeve to hold it in place. Or you may come out and find some globes MIA! Plus if you make it too easy to remove, you also run the risk of some scumbag vermin coming along and just removing and taking the globes off just for fun. They may leave them in your yard or may just abscond with them altogether.

This is why I zip tie all my power cords together throughout my display and zip tie them at their connections as well, this is so they can't be pulled apart by some bozo thinking: "Oh won't this be so much fuin pulling and changing the power cords around to screw this persons display up."

I will always do what I can on the side of keeping my display safe, in one piece and power from each controller to where it's needed! This way I'm not worrying some idiot is going to come along and move things(like channel cords) around, or worse, take items or a part of an item because they thought it'd be funny or fun. Or have damage done, or parts go blowing off by high wind gusts/winds.
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Orville wrote:

caniac wrote:
Nurples wrote:
To seal it off with silicone without permanently attaching the two... I would put a bead of silicone along the top of the PVC... Allow it to dry overnight creating a rubber seal... then set the globe on top and securing it with three thumb screws. Then you have a water tight seal and the globe still comes off with ease. :(
was thinking of going the sleeve route. found what i needed and it looks to be 3-4 inches in length. will glue the globe to the top part of the sleeve and just slide it on. will paint the sleeve to match the tube.


Depending on whether or not you get any high winds that may work. But if you get some high winds like we sometimes get in our "thunderstorms" and sometimes just a storm the wind is strong enough it could use the globe as leverage and pull it right off the top of the pole (or so I would think). So I'd still put in at least 3 or 4 regular screws through the sleeve to hold it in place. Or you may come out and find some globes MIA! Plus if you make it too easy to remove, you also run the risk of some scumbag vermin coming along and just removing and taking the globes off just for fun. They may leave them in your yard or may just abscond with them altogether.

This is why I zip tie all my power cords together throughout my display and zip tie them at their connections as well, this is so they can't be pulled apart by some bozo thinking: "Oh won't this be so much fun pulling and changing the power cords around to screw this persons display up."

I will always do what I can on the side of keeping my display safe, in one piece and power from each controller to where it's needed! This way I'm not worrying some idiot is going to come along and move things(like channel cords) around, or worse, take items or a part of an item because they thought it'd be funny or fun. Or have damage done, or parts go blowing off by high wind gusts/winds.


we really don't have anything that resembles high wind (other than after effects of one of my trips to a Mexican restaurant). Last season there was only one day/night where we had high wind warnings and we took the display down that day (unplugged inflatables, took down mega tree, etc.).
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