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Steven last won the day on July 5 2016

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About Steven

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  • Birthday 01/01/1963

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    Sunnyvale, CA
  • Occupation
    Software Engineer

More About Me

  • How I learned about Light-O-Rama -
    Carson Williams' video in 2006.
  • Favorite Decorating Holiday?

LOR Software

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  1. I've been using 1/2 wave LEDs for years with very little fading problems. The only issue is that they will flicker when very dim, but that is fixed by adding "snubber" resistors, which I built into plugs.
  2. The price needs to be factored against quality and durability. I purchased the EDM-LCD-RDS-EP in 2009, have used it for 8 seasons, and it still sounds great! I paid $235, so if you divide that by the time I've been using it, it's less than $30/year. It's in the garage, connected with a cable to a vertical antenna on the roof.
  3. Red and amber LED's are about 2 volts. Green, blue, purple, white are about 3.5 volts. What this means if you remove 20 white bulbs (that are one series segment!), you can replace it with about 35 red bulbs (in one series segment). If you use less than 35, it will still probably work, but they may run hotter, which mean they may not last as long. If you have some sacrificial strings you can test, I would leave them plugged in overnight to see if they are still working the next day.
  4. Please note that this "all on" animation sequence needs to go in the "Musical" tab in the Show Editor, not in the "Animation" tab. If you accidentally put it in the "Animation" tab, it will play it at the same time as your musical sequences, which is not what you want! Musical sequences can only be placed in the Startup, Musical, or Shutdown tabs, or as a Jukebox or Soundboard sequence. However, an Animation sequence can be placed anywhere, including tabs along with Musical sequences.
  5. I could be wrong, but if the two channels are on different controllers, they may shimmer out of phase. This is something I'm going to have to try when I have a chance.
  6. It's not optimal, but what you could do is this: In the Pixel Editor, use "Sequence" -> "Migration Tools" -> "Import from Sequence Editor". This will turn your existing Sequence Editor effects into a movie in the Pixel Editor. Using the Pixel Editor, delete the movie effect from the portion of the sequence where you want to use the PE effects. Save the Intensity Data Remove the channels from the Sequence Editor file. You can do this using the "Remove prop channel data from Sequence Editor" tool in the Pixel Editor. This will give you the results you want, but the disadvantage is that if you want to modify those effects that you created in the Sequence Editor, you'll have to edit the backup file, then repeat the steps above. Another option "Plan B", is to install xLights/Nutcracker; re-do the Pixel Editor effects (because there isn't a way to convert from PE to Nutcracker); export the sequence as a Light-O-Rama clipboard file; then use the Sequence Editor to paste the Nutcracker sequence.
  7. I'm pretty sure that each output is switched to ground to turn it on (very rapidly, using PWM). This means that you can connect the positive lead of your lights to any positive voltage you want. The positive voltage doesn't have to be routed through the CMD16D (as long is there is voltage to power the card itself). Therefore, you could have lights of several different voltages using the same card (again, using a non-standard connection for the anode).
  8. There is also a third choice: A box that converts from LOR to DMX. Two products that do this are the iDMX1000 from LOR, or the ELOR from SanDevices.
  9. However, the original CCR controllers rapidly change the values they send to the strips in order to add 3 more bits to each pixel. Basically, it tweaks the firmware to add resolution to the hardware.
  10. I use a cheap Gemmy fog machine outside my front door during Halloween, with a home-made fog chiller (ice in a cooler). The first couple of years I did this, enough fog came in through the front door when we greeted the trick-or-treaters that it triggered our fire alarm! Since then, I learned to tape a plastic bag around the smoke detector in the hallway while the fog machine is being used.
  11. You want to get some AC79. It's a primer for silicone that makes it stick with superglue. I used it to glue a silicone RGB strip to Velcro strips, but it should also work to glue silicone to PVC.
  12. That's why I run my cords under my sidewalk.
  13. Be careful when using plastic bags that you need air circulation, or the bags will trap moisture from condensation. There isn't any good reason to use a plastic bag over the standard controller cases, because they are very weatherproof. The Styrofoam cup idea sounds good, as it will keep the rain out, but still allow air to flow, which will keep the connectors dry. I have same RJ45 butt connectors on the ground, and I spray Corrosion-X into them. That seems to keep them working all season.
  14. Here's another option that doesn't cost much: I use an ELOR from SanDevices for all my dumb RGB (2 RFX's, 3 RGB floods, 3 RGB strips around windows, and an 8-RGB_channel mini tree made with dumb RGB pixel in a spiral configuration). The ELOR looks like an iDMX1000 (actually, it looks like 4) to the LOR software, so you don't have to change any connection to your computer. I also use the ELOR to drive an E6804, which is connected to 100 GE ColorEffects pixels.
  15. I have a separate DropBox folder that has the normal LOR sub-folders (Audio, Sequences, SuperStar, Clipboards). I edit sequences on several computers depending on where I am. When the sequence is "golden", then I copy it to the DropBox folder, and then copy it from the DropBox folder to the working folder on the show computer. I don't store the LSV or LCS files. DropBox keeps the last versions of a file for 30 days or so, so I can go back if needed. I also use a backup service on one of my computers (CrashPlan), so if I need to go back further, I can use that. Everything's in the cloud.