Dave Pursel

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Everything posted by Dave Pursel

  1. Seems to me I've read something in the past about this be licensing related. I assume you had to install on your desktop. Did you enter your license info?
  2. Does anyone know the differences between V1.02 and V1.03 and V1.04 kits? Been searching but can't find any hits.
  3. Sorry to hear your still having issues after two years. Some food for thought. I don't use any cmb24d's. You said that the last "end" controller is your problem child. That would imply that the one prior to it is the problem child. Don't know if you've done any cable rerouting to make it the second, third, whatever as a means of testing. You've never said anything about cable length between controllers? This is RS485. Since it appears the problem occurs when you plug in a cmb254d I'm wondering if voltage is being sucked down by the cmb24d??? Another fact that you've stated is that it works fine with HU controlling ALL of the controllers. When running a show your going to be pushing a heck of a lot more data out to the controllers via those cables. What speed are you running your network at? And as others have discussed on these forums, which I've questioned, is there the possibility of interference (impedence issues?) if the cables are run near power cables. Hope this adds some food for thought.
  4. Since no one has helped yet I'll give you some things to consider. I do use a director instead of a pc so my experience is limited in this respect. I'm assuming this stoppage on the second pass is consistent. In other words if you shutdown your computer. Restart it and your show fails everytime it gets into the second pass? My thoughts are your pc is the issue. Don't know what os and lightorama versions your running so I don't know if there are any memory leaks contributing. I can't help but wonder what's running on your pc at the same time your show is running. Do you have any scheduled tasks that may be running, or other programs that are consuming memory or cycles such that the culprit is the computer. It's my opinion that a controller can't be causing this. You may want to turn off wifi if your using it in case some kind of communication is occuring causing a computer slow down. You can start up task manager and verify some of these possibilities by clicking on the performance tab and observing the graphs for high spikes while the show is running. Hopefully others with more experience using the pc to control your display will chime in.
  5. Just what I need - two more controllers. Does this ever end???
  6. And you Don, my friend that I've never met in person, are partly the reason why. For without the brains and experience guys like you bring to the party, guys like me wouldn't be buying more controllers.
  7. Hi Sarge. I'm pm'ing you too. Also, your the only one on this forum who's identified himself as one who's spent his career defending our country. Thank You for that. Dave
  8. Excerpts from the FAQ page at this link - http://www.faq.gov/uas/registration/faqs Q. Where do I go to register? A. on faa.gov beginning December 21, 2015 Q. When must I register? A. You must register prior to operating the UAS outdoors. Q. When will I be able to register on this UAS website? A. WIll be available starting December 21, 2015. Q. May I operate my UAS once I register? A. Completion of registration does not provide authorization to operate your UAS. Typical nightmare!
  9. So is everyone else's show still on? I just checked the camera and I still have both sides of the street lined up with cars!
  10. I can't believe it. I just went out there to pass out more canes. This van full just drove up. They just came from Ithica just to see the lights. It's 55 miles away!!!
  11. Here's what I'm using. Has a couple of issues though. 1st during observations of those walking up to put money into the cane. They can't seem to locate the slot. I even have a flashing strobe light inside that blinks 100% of the time. I've even found money in my mailbox on more than one occasion. So I plan on putting some kinda of signage that says "Insert Money Here". Possibly a chute also. That way people won't have to get out of their cars. Worried about people hiting it though. It's bolted to my mailbox 4x4 post. I can picture the whold thing on the ground. 2nd problem is that of loose change. So I take a pizza box out with me for which there is just enough clearence between the bottom of the cane and the ground. That way when I pull the locking plug out of the bottom, I don't have to pick up all of the loose change. Outside of that, it's the third year and it works pretty good.
  12. FYI. By the way I'm posting with IE 11.0.1 Everyone should/need to know that any electronic failures (televisions, receivers, computers, etc, and LOR controllers are typically caused by excess heat. I have the large heat sinks in all but one of my controllers and I've only had 1 triac fail in the last 6 years. It's my believe that was caused by a short in one of my unfused C9 strings that had four strings connected together (about 6 amps total). You can't overload Triacs. You need to calculate/measure your current loads on all circuits if you want to help your controllers operate without trouble.
  13. I'm not trying to offend you Slick-Jerry. But based on your questions and responses you need to follow Tim and Kens advice. Until you have better electical knowledge. Buy a proper power supply for the controller your going to use. You don't want to let the smoke out of your controller by experimenting. I'm not made of money either and it isn't easy trying to keep the cost down. It would be possible to add a bridge rectifier on to the Malibu to convert it to DC if that's what this board requires, but your trying to turn a mole hill into a mountain. Not an easy way to go.
  14. I recommend and also started out with the Light-O-Rama basic starter package. Controller w/integrated MP3 director (so I don't have to dedicate a computer to the shows) Software License to create the sequences. Of course that was 7 years ago and I'm now up to 15 controllers. Nearly a mile of wire. You need to start small (learn how to walk before running) so as to learn the basics of sequencing and setup. As indicated in other post make sure you start early with your setup (October). I now do a small (three controllers) Halloween show which lets me get some of the setup (wiring and controllers) done in early october without having the house and yard look like Christmas (my wife will not tolerate Christmas decorations in the yard until about the second week of November, which makes it tough to get setup in time). And last but most IMPORTANT. Planning and documentation. It will help you the following year so you don't have to reinvent the wheel trying to remember where everything connects up to. Setup is faster. I label all my harnesses with labels. Use colored electrical tape to easily identify which color strands plug in where.
  15. Does this occur with the same song every time it runs? All songs? And with both controllers during the same song(s) every time it runs?
  16. Hey Orville. Do you think MaxPaul is jealous because he doesn't test how electricity works once in a while?..... : ) Or do we just love the release of ozone caused by electrical arcing causing by atoms being split and recombining into O3??? Oh and I can't forget the clouds of cuprix oxide convering anything in proximity to our testing of lights with black soot!
  17. Even if you have lots of money to spend I would recommend that you start your first year with just one/two controllers max to learn about the technology. You'll be better off by starting out walking instead of running. As far as your other questions, I'm not using RGB yet, so I don't have questions to your answers. From the responses I've read in the past though, I believe all of your questions have been already been answered in this forum. So if you don't get any responses right away (because everyone is in show mode and worried about their own displays) you can do some google searches using " what kind rgb lights site:forums.lightorama.com" in your search argument as example. Hope this helps.
  18. If the fuse has blown it has done so for good reason. If you have an ohm meter available, you may want to check what ever lights/etc your plugging into the controller. Or simply plug them into an outlet to test them and make sure they work before replacing the fuse. Otherwise it's likely you will blow a new fuse immediately. Another cause for blowing a fuse is by putting to many lights on one plug. Your limited to 8 amps per channel if you have the large heatsinks and one if no heat sinks if your running the small or no heat sinks. If your still having problems, let us know what type of lights / devices your plugging in and what type of controllers your using. Just so you know and I'm making assumptions about the controller your using. You have two power plugs for your controllers which are used to supply it with power. One side (left I believe) is used to power the controller electronics. The right(?) is used for switching lights/devices. When you replace the fuse disconnect all of your lights/devices to see if it powers up ok without loads. You can also move the fuse from the right side to the left as a way to prove out functionality until you get a new fuse.
  19. Your msgs don't say so I need to ask. You have assigned a unique unit address to each controller, right? This is done different ways depending on the controllers you have. Go to the support site and look up the manual for your controllers. Look in the section setting unit addresses.
  20. Ok! I now have to chime in after reading some of these. Those who live in AZ,CA and FL can ignore this response. My gfci running the 16 minis has been tripping left and right the last 4 nights. Normal when it rains, but not so when it's just snow. 4" or so the last few days. Something it has never done for 6 years. Probably for good reason I'm sure. But I bypassed the gfci last night so hopefully no one will go out and find out if something is truely HOT - even though it's COLD (in the teens). Use to love snow and ice until LightORama and the Che'vette came along. Then I read the one from oilmoney. Where they live redefines COLDDDDD!!!! His posted video of his CCR tree is awsome. But after googling where ft mcmurray Alberta is, I couldn't help if anyone else even lives there such that they can enjoy his lights....... : ) By the way, since it can't be driven in the snow, here's what the Che'Vette pupose is for during the decorating season.... see attached. This probably should have been a coffee shop forum topic....
  21. Thanks Don. I learned this today too after having used LOR since V1 for 6 years. But then again I'm learning something new everyday. And who said you can't teach an old dog new tricks..... : )
  22. Oh what the heck. Let's throw my theory in there. Having let the smoke out of a few things in my life. Did you drop a screw/tool by any chance and it fell back behind the PCB thus causing a short circuit? Second is there any way you could have applied power to the end of one of your light strings thus back feeding into the board. This would seem as higher probability do to the fact that had you accidentally used a source on a different leg/phase and thus created a 240 volt potential, that definately would produce a catastrophic fire like this. There's a lot of us christmas decorators doing weird wiring these days.
  23. Another issue you may need to think about is how many and what type of lights are you planning to attach to the end. If LED's than you probably have no reason to read the rest of my post. If you plan to attach incandescents than you need to be cognizant of how many lights and how large in the terms of wattage. The wire size of the light string your tying in to is the issue here. It will only handle so much amperage depending on the wire size of the light string. And that does vary such that I can't tell you directly how many additional lights you can attach without creating a potential for overheating the wire. Hopefully your light string your tying into has a fuse in it such that if you do exceed the capacity it will blow preventing overheating / fire.
  24. Just so there's no confusion. The pics show the MP3 director attached to a controller. My previous post does not apply if your attempting to attach the MP3 director by itself directly to an ELL. The MP3 director does not have a USB port on it. Normally the MP3 director has to be attached to a controller in order to receive power. There is the ability to provide external power to the MP3 director. I do not know if that's enough to provide power to the ELL though. Someone else will have to chime in on that one.
  25. According to your pics you posted your going to be running your show from a MP3 director and not directly from the computer. If this is correct you won't need the USB485B adapter. That adapter is used when you want to attach a ELL directly to your computer. Your controller will provide the power for the ELL transmitter/receiver. As I have recently discovered the USB port does not have enough power to power the ELL transmitter. That is why this adapter is needed. It's cold outdoors these days (9 degrees F last night) I had plans on taking my laptop out to the car at the end of the driveway to make modification to my sequences. That's when I discovered I needed the USB485B adapter.