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  1. This may sound like a dumb question. I think I may know the answer but will ask anyways as I am not on my laptop today to try it. I made my colors in the sequence by changing intensities in the software on each red, blue and green channel. I was wondering is there a way to reduce the overall brightness across the entire sequence and not effect the color mixture.. If I had to describe it now, all channels when hitting white color would be at 100% and then just reduced from there to create the colors mixed in rgb. What I am wondering is if I reduce intensity across the channel (say reduce sequence by 30%) on every rgb channel, Will that mess with some of the colors I created? I'm just wondering if there is a trick to keep the colors exactly what they are now and then just change the brightness of it. Sorry if this is a stupid question. Just wondering how to reduce the overall brightness of the lights without it affecting the colors. Some colors are mixed for example 100% red, 30% blue and 0% for green) If I reduce that say 30% across the entire row, will that change just the brightness or will it reduce the colors and force me to have to recreate the sequence colors For example reducing the row by 30% will that eliminate the 30% on blue and leave me with 70% on red? Instead of the original 100% red and 30% blue.... If anyone can explain how to do this that would be great. As explained this is my first year with rgb so I'm a little confused or maybe I am just overthinking it. I ran this test sequence last night to see if everything was working on the tombstones I cut and made. However everyone in the family said it is way too bright and are concerned it will blind people. After 5 minutes of this song I understand what they mean. I was seeing dots when the song ended lol. Just want to tune the brightness down a bit and dont want to ruin the color creations. The video does it no justice. It is 10 times brighter in person. It was so bright it was lighting up the walls in the room in the back 14 feet behind the tombstones lol.
  2. LOR XLights Pixcon and/or Falcon

    In my opinion if your already using Light O Rama to sequence you should stick with it . I have been using LOR to sequence for over ten years now when I seen Brian's ( Superstar 12 strip CCR tree ) I built one and bought the Superstar lights program before it was part of LOR from Brian. It's great to program with. When pixel trees came I built one six years ago at that time there weren't many pixel controllers to choose from so I went with a Jousha systems p12 controller and at that time the best way to sequence the pixel tree was in X -Lights so I used X- Lights to program but converted the sequence to LOR to run in LOR until the Pixel editor came along in S4 .In my opinion The model setup in S5 is similar to X-Lights and generating effects is done basically the same way . As for pixel controllers I started using Sandevices ,Jousha Systems and Falcon before LOR had there own ,so I only have LOR 16 channel ac and a few 24 channel dc controllers but in my opinion the Falcon is the easiest to setup .I now do all my sequencing in LOR .
  3. LOR XLights Pixcon and/or Falcon

    ^^ Oh and I guess my final 2 cents... on the subject, I am in technical sales, I am a software developer who runs a 30 man support team. Support Sells! How xLights is doing it, is simply having a group of fans, not experts, who can communicate with each other. (like the software ZOOM) and login when they are programming... need a hand/give a hand. No real cost. But sure handy. They also have a group of people who get swag to be part of the UBER group. Such as James, K6ccc, Caniac and more they offer products... it helps promote products and helps incentives those who pitch in, like those just mentioned. Just food for thought.
  4. LOR XLights Pixcon and/or Falcon

    Both Pixel Editor and SuperStar do that just fine. I agree that if you are sequencing large amounts of pixels in Sequence Editor, you are torturing yourself. Yes, I know that there are people who do pixels in SE (George for one as I recall), but personally I would not even consider trying to sequence a matrix type prop in SE. Either SuperStar or Pixel Editor is FAR easier (I'm partial to SS). BTW, a string of pixels (for example a fenceline or roofline) may not be too bad in SE, but for example trying to do text on a matrix using SE would take a massive amount of time compared to either SS or PE.
  5. Going prices for Controllers

    Ebay is always an option but I trust sellers in here more then I do on Ebay.
  6. Assistance with Design

    No, prob. Never took it as negative, very glad to take anyone's input to get it right.
  7. You Need These Pliers

    Agreed that good tools are well worth the cost. That is a lesson I learned in reverse from my dad. He grew up during the great depression (he was born in 1927), so money was ALWAYS very tight. As a result, even though he always had a job after getting out of the service after WW2, he almost always tended to buy the cheapest tool that would do the job. That was usually followed by years of bitching about how much of a piece of crap it was. I pretty much never buy cheap tools as a result. BTW, either don't start, or get out of the habit of stripping wire with your teeth. Your dentist will thank you...
  8. Our 2018 Display!

    Try doing Disco Santa! Took me months to get that song out of my head!
  9. You Need These Pliers

    your a trusting man letting your wife have those tools. If you wake up one morning missing a kidney don't say you weren't warned!!
  10. View a Sequence

    In addition to what SPaschall said, if you decide that you don't want to upgrade to Pro and continue to use Sequence Editor, you will still need to upgrade. The Pixie16 controller uses 16 Unit IDs and the Basic Plus license level can only control 4 Unit IDs. You would need to upgrade to Advanced level license in order to use the 16 IDs. With that said, I would recommend that you make the jump to Pro and then you are covered for anything.
  11. LOR XLights Pixcon and/or Falcon

    yes it does, right now X-Lights does have more effects then S5 but many effects are similar between the two .
  12. LOR XLights Pixcon and/or Falcon

    I am using S5 and very satisfied. Using all LOR controllers (CTB16, DUMB RGB, PIXCON16 and PIXIE).
  13. Now Sharing ~ Dont Stop the Rock singing faces

    So this is what you have inspired.... An old skating rink style light show lol. It's nothing as good as what you guys do but this is my first year with RGB floods and nodes. Yes it's Blinky but that's the point LOL. Even going to utilize the spiral trees for Halloween lol
  14. LOR XLights Pixcon and/or Falcon

    I can only speak for the Falcon controllers. I have 5 total and love them. I still use LOR software with the Falcon's. They are super user friendly and support is great. I would highly recommend them. I have over 12,000 pixels in my display and LOR software has handled them fine for me. I am switching to S5 and believe it will be a step in the right direction for LOR.
  15. LOR XLights Pixcon and/or Falcon

    I have never played with either a Pixcon nor Falcon controller, so no personal use of either one. Yes, the service from LOR is second to none. With that said, I have heard that the Falcon controllers are some of the easiest to setup of any pixel controllers (second or third hand information). Personally I started using SanDevices controllers when there weren't a lot of choices for pixel controllers. I love them and have no plans to switch to anything else - bought another one a few months ago. As for the software, I have never played with XLights, but my understanding is that it is very similar to Pixel Editor (or actually the other way around). As I really don't like Pixel Editor, I don't see any reason to believe that I will love XLights. I am dipping into the Falcon Player world this year because I will be adding a couple P10 panels which will use FPP to drive the panels. However at least so far, planning on driving FPP in bridge mode from LOR. I pretty much do everything in LOR in SuperStar, and AM making the jump to S5 this year. Part of that is because I am making a LOT of hardware changes which is requiring a major "conversion", and switching to S5 would also require a big "conversion" so might as well combine the two "conversion" projects. I'm still not overly thrilled with the SuperStar integration in S5, but it is SLOWLY getting better. It will likely never get to where I can sequence the way I have in the past in SuperStar (which will likely at least double my sequencing time). My two cents worth...
  16. No motivation yet - help!

    Motivation comes in different forms for each individual person. To me the ability to express a form of art in a real, tangible display that people can actually experience out on the street is enough for me to sink massive amounts of time in to programming. Case and point - I just spent about 30 hours in the last 3 days programming a 2 and a half minute segment of Beethoven's 5th Symphony Allegro Con Bri'o. I have about 4,000 pixels and I do all custom sequencing (no motion effects or any auto generated stuff). When you realize that you have complete control over the experience that your audience will have outside your home it makes you want perfection. It's just about taking the initiative to fire up the computer and start. Once you get your mind working on new sequencing possibilities it's hard to stop!
  17. Firstly Mods, Is it possible to get a Forum Topic dedicated to props? building of, lighting, wiring etc... Warning, kind of a long post, but with pictures I'm just finishing up on a new prop for this year. I call it a 1/4 Barrel prop. I have seen a lot of spheres people have made with dumb RGB's and have not seen one where someone made one with smart RGB. I liked the look but have no need for an actual sphere in my display, hence the 1/4 barrel look. I needed another smart RGB prop on the right side of my display with some size to display across all my smart RGB props. It's size is 5' 3" tall and 5' 5" wide. Essentially it is a matrix with 2 radius's, 1 vertical and 1 horizontal. Having the radius's, gives the illusion of the light fading away from your viewing perspective. Materials used; .090 thick aluminum for the bottom and top plates. .063 thick aluminum for the vertical strips and the belly band strip. 1" X 1" aluminum square tubing for the 3 supports for the top and bottom plates. Pixie16 with 16 ports of 50 pixels. Band Aids, should have sanded better. I started this project by drawing the prop out with Google Sketch Up. (free 3D drawing program), I was able to build it to the size I thought I wanted then scale it for equal LED placement. On the Vertical rows, the pixels are evenly spaced at 2 1/2". In the middle Horizontal, they are also 2 1/2 inches but get closer the lower and higher away from center. I had originally intended to build this prop by hand. (cut all the material by hand) Recently at work I have been using the CNC Router table more and more. The boss being a fan of my light shows, allowed me to cut scrap aluminum on the router table for this project. The software for the table router is more CAD like than Google Sketch Up. This allowed to very quickly determine angles and spacing of the vertical strips. This picture shows the top and bottom plate already cut, it's drilling holes to give me line up points for the vertical strips. This picture show the Vertical strip being cut. They are 1 1/4" wide by 65" tall. Since I was to lazy to walk out to my barn and measure the flange on a Pixel 16 light, I cut the LED mounting holes 1/4" and figured I could drill then later. More about this later. This is the frame welded together. You can see the line up holes on the bottom, this allowed me to center each strip, and keep an even distance for the mounting strips. Since I knew I was using a Pixie 16 with 16 ports of 50 pixel each for a total of 800 pixels. Each strip has 25 holes drilled exactly 2 1/2" apart. There are 32 strips. Hence 32 X 25 = 800 pixels. Here the vertical strips are being mounted. After all the vertical strips were mounted I riveted a strip of .063 x 1" in the center horizontally to keep the pixels (in the center) at a spacing of 2 1/2". A quick poof can paint job. Installing the LED's. I mentioned before that I had only drilled the pixels mounting holes 1/4" and that I would drill then out later, this came back to haunt me. In other projects with Pixie 16 lights, I have used drilled holes in Corex and pushed the pixels through and the room for error was greater. The strips being only .063 thick (smaller then 1/8") required the holes to be exactly the size of the pixel flange for them to snap in. I used a micrometer and determined the size hole I needed was 15/32" (a 1/16" shy of 1/2") I bought a brand new sharp drill bit and tested on a spare piece of metal, everything worked great when it was laying on the table. At this point the vertical strips were already mounted so I started drilling them out. I got to the 3rd hole and the drill bit caught and twisted the metal before I could stop the drill motor. I switched drill bits to a step up bit and determined I needed to stop 1 step/shoulder from going all the way through. This proved challenging and I ended up going all the through on some holes, meaning the pixels do not snap in and lock in place, they fall out. You can see zip ties I used to hold them in while the adhesive silicone set up on the back to make the secure. Hindsight tells me I should have drilled the holes on the drill press over wood, before the strips were mounted. Live and learn. Finished with the installing the pixels and a profile view of the finished prop. A straight on view of the finished prop. Overall, I really like how the prop turned out. I have the storage room in my barn on a wall so size was not really a factor, other than I wanted a decent resolution (pixel spacing) and a large sized prop. Once i had all the pieces cut, it was assembled and lit over a weekend. I do my lights shows during the summer months, so hopefully I will post some videos of it in action will all my other props in a few weeks. Alan... The video shows a minutes worth of sequencing I used for testing. There is both effects from S5 SE and Superstar.
  18. There are so many from that era. Jam on It is another goodie. SOS and Dazz Band. Freakazoid JR
  19. When Faces are done will add rest
  20. No motivation yet - help!

    NamecipS if you look on Sharing Sequences I posted 100s 16 string Pixel tree Sequences New for this year 24 string Matrix I have all the Halloween Sequence done 125 of them now start on Christmas have 180 of them to do
  21. I started it early last year and discovered HS does sell it and stopped. However since that time I started sequencing freehand and have plans to finish it up for this year. Was one of my favorite roller skating songs, when skating was big. Look for it once its complete. Will also be doing The Show, Blackberry Jam and the Roof is on Fire (clean) JR
  22. Now Sharing ~ Imagine Dragons ~ Believer Faces

    Sent the rest Lms Pixel Matrix
  23. Lil Red Riding Hood Faces Pixel Matrix

    Man you are SUPER Fast! Yeah I think this would be a great song for Halloween. Pevely@seascape.ns.ca Thanks!
  24. Use a ferrule, save a board (Low Voltage RGB/Pixels)

    #themoreyouknow haha Thanks for the info guys. I actually ordered the crimper and the ferrules kit linked above with prime. Will be working on that this weekend since my new CMB24 shipped out today That is if ups gets it here on time lol. Just want to say I appreciate everyone taking the time to answer questions it really helps some of us newcomers out and I'm sure it will help others in the future when they search and find this post like I did. Special thank you to @BluMan for providing those step by step instructions and photos as well as @DevMike for posting this.
  25. Beware of Used Equipment and Buying/Selling Scams

    Been noticing alot of forum posts recently that I wondered about. Glad you guys are on the ball Thank you for the work you guys do. We love LOR
  26. Disco Ball Motor Question

    If you already have the disco ball/lights, I would do a trial run at night without going through a controller. Stand out by the street and see if it is what you expected. You gotta put yourself in the position of the audience to really get a true result.
  27. Disco Ball Motor Question

    100% or 0 only. It probably has a synchronous motor (like old plugin wall clocks and phonos) Outdoors If you hang it INSIDE a plastic shelter (upside down tuperware. no lid needed) shelter from rain. I don't think you can make it resistant enough base mounted
  28. Disco Ball Motor Question

    You should be fine. I would just make sure you program it to be on 100% or off 100%. Not sure if it's "dimmable," it might burn out the motor. Plus you would need to look into waterproofing the motor casing as well, I doubt it's made for extended outdoor use.
  29. Disco Ball Motor Question

    Type and amp draw should be ok. But this is very small. For an inside display might be good. Outside not so good. By the time you set up spots etc to shine on the mirror ball, many channels used up. Might use those channels to add more strobes or something. Just my uneducated opinion.
  30. New to RGB. New power supply emitting strange smell

    Can you explain a little bit more by what you mean never run them over 80%? Do you mean amp wise or intensity wise in the sequence? Sorry to ask for clarification but this is my first year dabbing into RGB with a CMB. I would like to be able to reference back to any information provided to help me continue further into the addiction.
  31. I just happen to think that power supplies are a crap shoot anyway. I understand that everybody swears by Mean Well but I have over 30 power supplies in my system and I for one can't afford $50 a pop for a Mean Well. All of my power supplies have cost $12-$18 and some I have been using for six years with no issues (knock on wood). I figure if you ensure they are regulated, keep them cool, wire and ground them properly and never run them continuously over 80% even the cheaper ones will do the job.
  32. Pixels in the visualizer (S4)

    What is the problem with IDs? Is your issue that you don't know what IDs to use, or how to assign them? I'll address the first, and then in a couple paragraphs, the second. You have a Pro level license, so you can use whatever IDs you want that makes sense to you. You did not say what hardware you are using. Some hardware has some special things to know about assigning IDs. For example, with Pixie controllers you configure the Pixie with the ID for the first string, and it then assigns the IDs for the remaining strings. For example, for a Pixie 16 controller, if you assigned it ID 05, the 16 strings would become IDs 05, 06, 07, 08 09, 0A, 0B, 0C, 0D, 0E, 0F, 10, 11, 12, 13, & 14 (remember that the IDs count in hexadecimal - not decimal). CCB / CCP controllers with two strings operate the same way when operating in "Dual Normal" mode - where you assign the ID for the first string, and it automatically configures the second string to the next ID (also in hex). My suggestion is to use a numbering scheme that makes sense to you. For example, I use three LOR networks (Regular, AuxA, & AuxB). Although you CAN duplicate controller ID numbers on different networks, I don't recommend doing so as it can be confusing to us human beings - the equipment doesn't care at all. In my case my Regular LOR network is allocated in my numbering plan to have controller IDs 01 - 1F, the AuxA network has controller IDs 11 - 1F, and my AuxB network is allocated controller ID 21 - 2F. In reality the regular network only has a single InputPup on it, and AuxA has five controllers. Both of those networks are used year round. AuxB is used for Christmas only and has three CCP controllers. For 2018, both AuxA and AuxB are getting more controllers. Now for the second possibility - you don't know how to assign them. That actually leads to a few more questions. Do you not know how to assign the IDs in the physical hardware, in the LOR software that is used for sequencing (Sequence Editor or Pixel Editor), or how to assign the IDs in Visualizer? And JR is right that a phone call can solve a lot of these issues in minutes that would take a novel worth of PMs or forum posts.
  33. Lil Red Riding Hood Faces Pixel Matrix

    We can do! Will add to list JR
  34. Is your music set to a constant bit rate of 128kbps? I have heard of some people saying they had similar problems with variable bit rate music. Use Audacity to set the music to constant bit rate. Hope this helps. Tom
  35. My Halloween Animations

    Thanks for the mention in this post htmagic! I do have skulls available at https://halloweenskulls.com, and I will be updating my animatronic singing skeleton group with all new heads this year. Here's a link to a playlist of the group that I call "Sindy Skinless and the Decomposers": I'm happy to answer any questions about animatronics as I do have a bit of experiance. Let me know if there's anything you need help with. Bob
  36. RGB Flood Sequences

    I actually don't. With enough experimentation I was able to mount them without any light bleed on unwanted areas.
  37. Continue The Story In 3 Words...

    Red Solo Cup
  38. RGB Flood Sequences

    That’s some rgb flood options for sure!
  39. RGB Flood Sequences

    Who, me???
  40. RGB Flood Sequences

    8-pack 10-watt 50-watt single flood homemade what kind and how many helps. Most do some form of wall washing unless your name is Santas Helper (Tom) he made a rgb flood mega arch that doubles as viewer blinders
  41. Continue The Story In 3 Words...

    to Hotel California
  42. Mounting too much in a CG 1500 case

    Get yourself a Bud enclosure or an MTM Ammo case, both of these will give you the room you need, and quite frankly ,are cheaper.
  43. Keeping People Out Of Your Yard??

    I am a fence contractor, no joke here, i just recently spoke with a man that wants me to build him a 3' tall 2 rail ,fence out of 2 inch PVC.
  44. Three Little Pigs By Green Jelly Faces Pixel Matrix

    This is my Halloween theme sequence this year. JR
  45. Enclosure

    I did the same basic build for my mega tree when I made up one box for controller cards for it. I have 96 strands of 70 count LEDs for the tree and a 3 channel star. I have to use 2 strands per channel (only because I made the tree bigger after I had the box built) but that has not been a big problem at all to my sequences and shows when I was still doing them. I have not had a show since 2014 due to health issues and other things but maybe I will get going again. I used a metal 24 x 36 x 8 deep NEMA enclosure which I picked up from an electrical supply house cheap ( they had ordered it for a customer who canceled the order on them). I put in 4 of the CTB16K cards, 32 outlets (cut so that it is really 64 single outlets), 2 ecs weatherproof Cat connectors, 2 30 amp weatherproof power connectors, and 4 lighted switches to be able to shut off any card for work if necessary. I mounted the box on a stand and painted it green with a big red bow so it stands next to the mega tree and just looks like a big present out in the display. The only drawback to it is that it weighs 87 lbs so you don't just pick it up and walk around with it! But it also makes it hard to steal at the same time I guess. It has worked out great for me here in upstate NY for many years so far with no fans or any trouble at all.
  46. I agree with this method totally. I've went back through and redid all my connections with Ferrules! Makes it look very nice!
  47. My Halloween Animations

    If you're setting up again this Halloween I'm a local and would love to swing by and see it
  48. It won't let me "Like" this, so I'll post it instead. LIKE!
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