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| DIY kit builders | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Thursday October 1st, 2009 10:33 am |
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51st Post |
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Jeff Millard Member 
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This is a misleading statement, just as the statement from the manual is. R2 is bussed and must be installed in the correct orientation or damage will occur to the 8 pin comm dip. If you look at my post closely it states R2 as the offending chip. Mr. Baldwin was at my house when the comm chip failed and witnessed this first hand. Jeff stanward wrote: The CTB16PC instructions says the resistor networks do not go in a specific direction. Last edited on Thursday October 1st, 2009 10:35 am by Jeff Millard ____________________ ...did you exchange a walk on part in the war for a lead role in a cage? |
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| Posted: Friday October 2nd, 2009 03:50 am |
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52nd Post |
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stanward Member 
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I can't find an R2 on the board.
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| Posted: Wednesday October 7th, 2009 03:18 am |
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53rd Post |
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LightORamaJohn One of your administrators
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stanward wrote: I can't find an R2 on the board. R2 is part of the Unit ID switch circuit on the CTB16D, its orientation is important. Orientation is not important for the other resistor SIPs. The CTB16PC does not have Unit ID switches so R2 is not present.
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| Posted: Wednesday October 7th, 2009 08:19 am |
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54th Post |
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stanward Member
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Thanks for the clarification! I have the PC version without the unit ID switch, as the reason my instructions said the direction does not matter.
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| Posted: Wednesday October 7th, 2009 08:31 pm |
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55th Post |
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Jeff Millard Member
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Sorry, In my rush to defend myself I missed that you were discussing the "PC" controller. Please accept my appologies.   Jeff
____________________ ...did you exchange a walk on part in the war for a lead role in a cage? |
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| Posted: Saturday February 5th, 2011 01:38 pm |
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56th Post |
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Shanta Member 
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In the "I won't make that mistake again" department... buy the cordsets from LOR, they are a bargain! I thought shoot, I have lots of indoor extension cords I can rig my own cordsets and save a buck. These cords are about a buck a piece, so $16 right there (forget tax since tax and shipping will pretty much cancel each other out). Then the spade connectors, they are $3 for a 10 pack at Home Depot (which sells boxes of all female, Lowes and RadioShack only sell pairs), or 60ยข per cord, or another $9.60. And ya know what, most of my extension cords that will go out into the lawn are grounded, so I get to either use an adapter or twist the grounding prong off! So, for $25.60 you can have 16 non-grounded, indoor rated cords and a sore crimping hand, or for $30 you can have pre-made, grounded, outdoor rated cords. Hmmmm? I won't make that mistake again!
____________________   Http://WakeForestSanta.com |
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| Posted: Saturday February 5th, 2011 11:57 pm |
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57th Post |
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chris mashburn Member
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I could'nt agree more!! That's the best $30 I've spent.
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| Posted: Tuesday February 8th, 2011 11:00 pm |
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58th Post |
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Steven Member 
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Don't build your own to save money, but there are other reasons. Here's a case I built. It was actually pretty cheap (box from the $1 store, 8 sockets at about $0.39 each, and some connectors from a box of 100), but the real reason was I didn't want those big, bulky, black pigtails on this box (because of where it was located). This disadvantage was that this took forever to build.  Another DIY example was the version where I ran 8 channels to a 9-pin Molex connector, which then plugged into a harness that went to my mega arch. That reduced the bulk and weight.
____________________ LOR user since 2007 |
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| Posted: Monday June 13th, 2011 05:10 pm |
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59th Post |
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darrel schweissinger Member 
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circus4u wrote: After positioning the Light Duty Heat Sinks and screwing the head of each Triac to the heat sink, solder all the Triac center leads first. After the center leads are soldered, use the wire nippers to cut the center leads. This will give you much more room and maneuverability to solder the two rear leads of each Triac since the Light Duty Heat Sinks limit access to the rear leads. Yes, great idea and can use futher on what I do. I flip the light duty sinks over and this makes for a level platform over the capasitors and transformer. I now have a nice and level work space and removing the center lead will make the job much easier. Thanks!
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| Posted: Wednesday October 26th, 2011 07:46 pm |
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60th Post |
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vkjohnson Member
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With the possibility of not having CTB 16 cards in my hands by Thanksgiving, I was considering buying the kits instead and putting them together for this year. The problem is I need 6 of them. If I devote all my evenings after work to assembly, how long might this take to complete 6 boards? Or how many man hours does it take for just one board?
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| Posted: Wednesday October 26th, 2011 07:48 pm |
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61st Post |
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vkjohnson Member
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vkjohnson wrote: With the possibility of not having CTB 16 cards in my hands by Thanksgiving, I was considering buying the kits instead and putting them together for this year. The problem is I need 6 of them. If I devote all my evenings after work to assembly, how long might this take to complete 6 boards? Or how many man hours does it take for just one board? Never mind, found the posts that answer this...still interested in your experiences though.
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| Posted: Thursday October 27th, 2011 04:16 pm |
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62nd Post |
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TJ Hvasta Member 
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VK, it seems it takes the average new builder abt 4hrs/each for the first couple boards.. the third to fourth board, you tend to knock an hour off as the placement becomes more familiar to you.. by the last set of two (boards 5 and 6) you would probably be down to abt 2hr build time each.. thats about the standard time per board now.. If you buy the kits in bulk, PLEASE remember to inventory every kit and the value of each component.. I cant state enough how important a BRIGHT light and magnifying glass are!! TJ
____________________ http://www.youtube.com/user/skygodtj |
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